Paul Szilard

RESOLVED -  FRAME-ACCURATE TIME CODE ACROSS MULTIPLE FUJIFILM XH2S/XH2.
With the recently released 5.10 firmware, it is now possible to jam-synch these cameras to the Atomos Ultrasynch Blue Time Code generator. Bluetooth pairing between XH2S/2 with the Atomos is tricky - turn on the camera, go to TC Settings>Time Code Synch Setting> Pairing Registration, and start the search. Turn on the UltraSynch Blue, go to Bluetooth settings, and start the search. The camera will appear on the Atomos display after a few seconds, select it. On the camera, a message will appear indicating a connection to the Atomos. Now the Atomos is registered with the camera and will appear in the registered devices section of the Bluetooth menu. Going forward turn on the Atomos, on the camera go to>TC settings>Time Code Synch Settings>turn on the "Connect to Atomos AirGlu BT" for each session. To get time of day TC into the Atomos install the Ultra Synch Blue app' on your phone and jam the phone time to the Atomos. According to Fuji and Atomos documentation, it is possible to synch six cameras to the Ultra Synch Blue. I am shooting a documentary with multiple XH2S' and having frame-accurate matching time code is a huge benefit in editing. Thank you Fujifilm!!!!!!!
I got mine at https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1569940-REG/atomos_atomxsybl1_us_ultrasync_blue_with_usb_c.html

I don't understand at all why your histogram is not changing with exposure - it does on my cameras. There is something  wrong. The little histogram that you can have in the corner of the viewfinder is of little value - it's too small. If, like on my x-t5, you can have a full histogram with all three colour channels showing, assign a button to it. The resulting histogram is accurate for the jpeg only. The right hand highlight end is fairly accurate for raw, although you may squeeze out another half stop. You cannot recover blown highlights, so make sure the  right hand side is not bunched up against the limit. Also remember, that if there are specular highlights in the picture, such as sun on water or mettalic surfaces the highlight end will show a narrow peak, which in this case, will be OK.  For raw you can pretty much ignore the shadow clipping as the shadows will be recoverable, unless they are really dark. The histogram is of great use when taking landscapes with a tripod. I use it frequently. It tells me when I need a separate exposure or grad filter for the sky. Of course, you wouldn't use it for street!

Flicker reduction possibly

Digging more into it the app still struggles at times if the setting to combine jpeg and raw together is on.  Had all working after separating the two file types.   Appears only Raws matched with Acros BW simulation were the problem.  What I found further is the app is still "confused" by only some Jpegs shot with the Fuji Acros BW simulation.  Even after is was working by all for a bit. The app is struggling with some of the Jpegs.  I think that was the root of the issue.  There is some bug that needs to be addressed with this situation.  I do have a ticket open with support. We shall see if that goes anywhere.

I have the Gfx50S and XT5.  Its surprising how close the XT5 can get to the Gfx.  I just uploaded some shots from the North CA coast, I was shooting both.  Capture One lists the shots by time of day so going through them alternates for each camera.  At times it was easy when I had the 70-300 on the XT5.  But when shooting with a shorter focal length on the XT5, its not as noticeable without zooming into the photo.  The Gfx will hold much more detail once you punch into the shot.  While the Gfx has higher IQ, if I had to own just one, it would be the XT5, its just much more versatile.

Hi Paul,
A few years back I went through an extensive review of raw developers/editors when Apple stopped supporting Aperture. I tried LR but did not like it. After eliminating several other software programs for various reasons, I narrowed things down to DxO and Capture One. Each of these has its strengths and weaknesses depending on your needs and preferences in working with files. Currently, I mainly use Capture One primarily because I use Fuji gear and find Capture One does the best job for Fuji files, although I have gotten similar good results with Olympus and Leica files. I do use the latest version of DxO for files that need to be denoised first and then transfer those files to Capture one as DxO has the best denoising software IMO.  DxO also has a standalone denoising program that is worth looking into for that alone.
Please note that Capture One has both a subscription and non subscription pricing option. Their pricing policies are somewhat controversial  within the Capture One community. I'd also take a look at Rod Lawton's website "Life After Photoshop" where he reviews a wide variety of software. I've found him helpful in the past.

Hi Nikolai and welcome! I have been shooting video on Fujifilm almost 10 years. I have X-H2 and X-H2s bodies and a selection of lenses. Looking forward to more stuff from you!
Cheers,
Paul Szilard in Sydney, Australia

Who shoots video on this forum? - I do, a lot. So I would like to know how much interest is there here. Please introduce yourself, saying
what type of video you do and/or would like to do, what is your experience level what gear do you use (both Fuji and accessories, like cage, external recorder, audio gear, etc.) what do you edit on Just to kick off with me:
I use X-T4 and X-T3 and choice of about 20 Fuji lenses, but not theMKX zooms (unfortunately) been shooting video for about 5 years and have been the president of the local video club, and have a sort of a YouTube channel I have done drama and docos and events also use a DJI drone, DJI Osmo Pocket, Sony AX100 4k camcorder and iPhone 11 Pro edit on FCPX on an iMac Pro Ok, let's see if I am the only one here?

I also include Zack Arias and Denae & Andrew on YouTube in my list.

Welcome to our forum! The X-T10 would not really be a step up since it's an older model than the X-T100. Go for the X-T30 (or X-T3). 

I see two options re battery:
 
1) Use dual chargers, with LCD that shows % of charge. Two of these would mean you could charge 4 batteries at the same time!

 
2) Use an external battery with a flexible cord to the camera. A belt mounted V-Lock Anton Bauer will certainly provide plenty of juice. In the "old days" we all used external battery packs for big flash guns. So even though this may not be a perfect solution, I think it is a very workable one. More so with a single body, as I would want tangled wires with 2 bodies around my neck. If I had to go for a full day's shooting, I would definitely look into that.
 

did you shoot in continuous mode - CH or CL? If yes, here are a 2 suggestions
 
1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).
2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.

Having used almost all of the 5D-series bodies extensively (up to the 5DsR), I would not say that the X-Pro2 AF achieves that level of performance. The 5DIII actually has a pretty good AF system. The X-Pro2 is quite good for a mirrorless camera though, especially with certain of the Fujifilm lenses.
 
If you want ideal sharpening you won't shoot jpgs. (I imagine that you are, given your description of adjusting sharpening on the camera.) Just shoot raw mode and do your sharpening in post. Every camera and every lens (and even different subjects) benefit from different sharpening settings.
 
Dan 

I have today received an invitation to join the Fujifilm "X-Thusiasts" Program of Australia.   I have read the Terms & Conditions, which can be seen at http://www.fujifilm.com.au/xthusiasts/terms and provide here my PERSONAL thoughts on the matter.   I realise and indeed encourage, individuals to form their own opinions and make their own decisions. As many of us are often given to not reading the "small print", I thought my highlights might be of value to some.   I won't reproduce the full Terms and Conditions document as these are available at the Fujifilm website for all to see, but pull extracts to support my thoughts.   INCENTIVE The only incentive I could see, for participating is to have a branded web presence and possibly have your work included in a Fujifilm published book. That's it! I can already have a web presence in a Flickr group, on the Fuji forums, or on a high number of other photo websites and blogs, not to mention my own websites, without giving away my rights!   PARTICIPATION General, para 1  
 
i.e. you don't even need to sign, or even tick a box, that you accept the T & Cs, as mere participation is regarded as legally binding acceptance of these.   General, para 5  
 
i.e. participants will not be notified! They are responsible for continuously checking the website to spot any cancellation or changes to the Program   License para 12c, relating to the Participant  
 
So if you take a cityscape, then you have to obtain written consent from the owner of every building, vehicle and human in the picture.   License para 13  
Note, this grants unspecified sub-licensees, "royalty-free, perpetual, worldwide, irrevocable, and sub-licensable right to use, reproduce, modify, adapt, publish and display any Content"   Privacy para 18  
I.e. any PI will be made available without further contact to the participant, to 3rd parties   And now, Ladies and Gentlemen, for the ultimate paragraph:   Promoter's Rights para 19  
i.e. ANY condition may be changed by the Promoters, without consent or even notification of the Participants at any time, and such changes become effective immediately!   Well, I am not a lawyer, but I would certainly not wish to participate under these conditions. I would advise anyone considering to participate, to take a serious look at what they are intending to do and the legal commitment that they are making. FUJIFILM X-Thusiasts.pdf

I really don't get the importance of edge sharpness at wide open. Especially at f1.4 when the DOF is very shallow, you are very unlikely to WANT egde sharpness and the cances are that the perimeter is not going to be in the same plane anyway. What you really want is subject separation, and faster shutter speed and the f1.4 will deliver that for you. In addition for portrature people used to add a soft focus filter, so razor sharpness is not called for. Having said that I find the 35mm f1.4 absolutely delightfull.
 
If I was going to shoot city scape or landscape I would use f4 to f11 in any case. So I am happy to stick with my 35mm f1.4 lens
 
(Now bring on the X-PRO2 specs!!!)

I really don't get the importance of edge sharpness at wide open. Especially at f1.4 when the DOF is very shallow, you are very unlikely to WANT egde sharpness and the cances are that the perimeter is not going to be in the same plane anyway. What you really want is subject separation, and faster shutter speed and the f1.4 will deliver that for you. In addition for portrature people used to add a soft focus filter, so razor sharpness is not called for. Having said that I find the 35mm f1.4 absolutely delightfull.
 
If I was going to shoot city scape or landscape I would use f4 to f11 in any case. So I am happy to stick with my 35mm f1.4 lens
 
(Now bring on the X-PRO2 specs!!!)

I really don't get the importance of edge sharpness at wide open. Especially at f1.4 when the DOF is very shallow, you are very unlikely to WANT egde sharpness and the cances are that the perimeter is not going to be in the same plane anyway. What you really want is subject separation, and faster shutter speed and the f1.4 will deliver that for you. In addition for portrature people used to add a soft focus filter, so razor sharpness is not called for. Having said that I find the 35mm f1.4 absolutely delightfull.
 
If I was going to shoot city scape or landscape I would use f4 to f11 in any case. So I am happy to stick with my 35mm f1.4 lens
 
(Now bring on the X-PRO2 specs!!!)

I have to say, that I disagree slightly. I haven't done extensive testing here just yet, but so far I think that the two lenses are only comparable up to f/2.8. Beyond that, the old f/1.4 is plain better across the frame. It might not have the exact same high center sharpness but it stomps the new f/2 in the corners and along the edges from f/4 (or even slightly more open) on.
 
The new one beats the hell out of the old one mechanically though. It feels nearly as good as my M-Rokkor lens. Very solid, compact and just plain "lovely". The old one always felt loose and a bit rattly. 
 
From my perspective after a week of using the new one: if you mostly shoot at f/2 to f/2.8 the new one is great. Mechanically it is far superior to the old in my personal opinion. But overall the old one is optically at least one class above the new.

Mushroom Picker...
... in Monti Sibillini/Italy
 

Hi dudes and dude-esses.
 
I am too busy at the moment to share some great and funny photo, but many of my photos can be found at my website. I am in the process of setting up a Synology NAS Photo Station, which will have practically unlimited space and wire speed access for me to load and change photos. (6x3TB HDDs plus 120GB SSD cache).
 
My bio: started photography at age 14 with a Praktika Mat, moved to Ricoh SLR then Olympus OM1/OM2/OM4Ti. When AF came in and Oly was dragging its heels, I switched to Nikon. Slowly progressing up to an F5, before going all digital. Now I run both Nikon D750 and Fuji X-T1 kits in parallel. I recognise (I think) the strengths and weaknesses of both systems and try to chose which one to take accordingly. Sometimes though I feel like I am a bigamist but I don't think that I could give up my Nikon kit.
 
I am also heavily into video, and like to produce short films and YouTube promos. I am curious to see how the X-PRO2 will fare. Reputedly it will have 4k video!
 
My Fuji kit comprises X-T1, plus lenses 8mm, 12mm, 23mm, 35mm, 56mm, 60mm, 18-55mm (for sale), 16-55mm, 55-200mm (for sale) and 50-140mm.
 
I use an iMac and LR 6, but have Windows PCs around as well.
 
I live in Sydney, Australia - so if you are local and interested in my two zooms for sale, send me a PM.
 
I think that is probably enough, by way of introduction.
 
Paul

If you like your X-T1, make the swap. The X-T10 is 95% the same as the X-T1, just much smaller. It's not as nice of a main body as the X-T1 is, obviously, but as a second body it's perfect.

I didn't think it would be. Like you, I was eyeing the rumoured prices and was thinking I'd just buy a second hand X-E2 as a backup for my X-T1. Then the prices came out and aren't so bad and at the start of this week I got to try out the X-T10 for myself. It's absolutely a better system than the X-E2, from a technical, objective point of view. The styling won't be for everyone, but if you're already using an X-T1 then I'm guessing you're okay with the SLR-like body. Everything else is categorically better than the X-E2. It's noticably smaller and lighter, which for a second body is great, to me. The viewfinder isn't as nice as the X-T1's but it's an improvement over the X-E2, with less lag and a smoother image in all light. The AF is considerably better than the X-E2's. (An X-T1 with fw 4.0 was not avilable to try, but the rep said the X-T1 would absolutely match the X-T10's AF once that firmware is out.) Obviously you get the tilt screen and a more functional button layout. I was told the battery life has been improved slightly, too, though as I was only around it for a couple of hours, I couldn't test that, obviously.

I started the morning thinking the X-T10 was pointless and a used X-E2 was the smartest purchase. I ended the day pre-ordering the X-T10. I'm even considering selling my X-T1 and buying a second X-T10 and just pocketing the £200 left over. They're that close in performance. If you can trade in the X-E2 for as much as you paid for it, and you won't miss the rangefinder-styled body, there is no reason to not get an X-T10.