Paul Szilard

The April 2024 firmware updates for the X-H2, X-H2S and X`100VI bring a couple of stellar updates for video: - STEPLESS auto ISO. Just set your shutter and aperture manually (i.e. fixed) and ISO to Auto. Now as lighting changes in the frame, you will get a smooth, stepless ISO change and perfect exposure - Start video recording and voila! you will see a red border on the LCD, just like on the X-T5 How bloody good are these?

The nearest you could do is use INTERVAL shooting with any exposure value and minimal interval gap, then string them together in your video editor. Not what I would do but...

How can you have an exposure last longer than a video frame is shown? It would mean that frame 1 is still exposing while frame 2 has started. DUH!

I would not spend $300+ for a fix of the LCD. But it is a personal choice.

I also use Tentacle Sync E devices. Just leave one device plugged into the mic input for each camera. You seem to be a bit emotional - I don't find AF "crap" at all. I agree, however that limiting TC to Ultrasync is very annoying to everyone who has a different system, like you and me! DMJpix's description is very comprehensive, but just reading it, puts me off from buying Ultrasync boxes. LOL. I am very happy with Tentacle Sync E syncing to my iPhone time of day. DMJpix - thank you for taking the time to document how to use the Ultrasynce Blue with Fujifilm.

Or just pull out the camera's memory card and use a card reader! I got a couple of CFExpress Type B readers from Amazon for about $25 each. Just make sure that you use a fast (10Gbit/sec) USB-C cable.

This can happen with slow or subpar memory cards. Try without the SD card inserted and just a CFExpress Type B card.

Quoting from DPREVIEW https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review

Absolutely! Check the manual, bro'.

I find the histogram most useful to judge a luminosity distribution of the image. If I turn on the blinkies the I can easily sport any blown highlights and make exposure adjustments accordingly.

Not really an answer, but I personally would not bother wasting an H2 to use as a webcam. I have an INSTA360 LINK, which is absolutely brilliant. I know it's an extra expense, but I can recommend it. I use it all the time with Zoom and FinalCut Pro recordings. Meanwhile back to your situation - what spec computer are you using? Can you set the camera to the lowest resolution and bit-rate? I suspect that the problem would be at the computer end of the equation where it may have problems processing the feed.

Which Fuji body are you using? I am pretty sure that the H2/S can do that, but probably not the H1. If you are on H2, I can have a dig into my camera's menu for you, if you like.

I agree with you 100%. (I chose the X-H2, but in this compare it is the same IQ as the X-T5).

I can recommend PhotoMechanic (Pro?) for culling and tagging and rating.

I usually use -1, but it depends on where you deliver to.

I don't have a definitive answer, but it seems to be that ON1 can get confused(!). Using this "trick" it is ignoring previous read attempts and seemed to have solved my problems. I had about a dozen photos that were problematic. Hopefully ON1 will fix this "feature" in the future. Glad it worked for you.

Hmmm. Thanks for getting back. Next thing to try. Quit ON1 Create a temp folder Use Finder (on Mac) or Explorer (Windows) to copy the image files that have the problem, to the temp folder Start ON1 and browse the copied files IF they wok, then from inside ON1, drag them to their original location and when prompted, select Replace Report back!

Try this: Quit ON1. Delete any XML or .ON1 file with the same name as the photo. Start ON1 and see if you can open the file. Report back on the results, please.

LOL. No, you can disagree. I love intelligent and humorous banter. Ok, here is my text summary, with images to follow, once I have sorted the 100GB of files I took on this exercise. And this describes one of the unavoidable side effects of shooting 200MB raw files. This will eat up your storage and what's worse is the space in your DAM. My recommendation is that you get to be diligent and ruthless when culling. Convert to JPG (or just KEEP the JPG) for the majority and then keep RAW files for the specials. I do have about 90TB of space however, so not a big problem for me. Re the camera: I was using a GFX100S, not the latest GFX100ii. Never the less it sports a really useful IBIS and good AF, which is accurate if not the fastest on the planet. I realise that the GFX100ii will out perform the one I had, and I think if I did decide to join the G brigade, I would probably go to that one. Size: I had absolutely no problems with size, but then I wasn't taking this hiking up the Himalayas. I loved the larger LCD and viewfinder. DOF: I was expecting a narrower DOF than the XF, but I was still amazed that even at f16 landscapes were not totally in focus. This means that one has to shoot f22 or f32, which slows down the shutter speed and also makes me wonder why I would spend huge $$ for f1.7 lenses! Lenses: I had 2 primes and 2 zooms to play with. Other than physical size, I could not detect any noticeable image IQ difference. For portraiture I was shooting f4 or f5.6 anyway. Image IQ: Of course this is where the rubber hits the road, isn't? The GFX certainly does deliver. What was really funny though, was that I shot very similar pics on my X-H2 and had them in the same folder on my drive. On more than one occasion, I would open a subtropical rain forest shot or a portrait, and think, vow medium format is brilliant - only to discover that I was looking at a shot from the X-H2! This is not to say that the GFX isn't even better, but it is to say that the X-H2 is outstanding, when used correctly. The G shots excelled in not blowing out the hightlights or clipping the blacks, and the colours in 16 bit are just unparalleled. The H2 however, not only saves a motza in drinking vouchers, but is MUCH faster focussing (birds in flight, anyone?) and you can shoot wide apertures to get similar results. Conclusion: It's a win-win choice. If the wallet can fund a GFX system in addition to an FX system, then you won't be disappointed, but for now, I am very happy having an X-H2 and an X-H2S and my 19 lenses. The REAL BAD NEWS is that my friend bought the GFX100ii and 2 lenses, but he is lusting after a Hasselblad (foolish person) and had threatened to offer me his 1 month old GFX kit at a good price! Please send donation to my PayPal account, so that I can do a long term review!

I had the pleasure of borrowing the following for 2 weeks: GFX100S GF 30mm F/3.5 R WR GF 35-70mm F/4.5-5.6 WR GF 80mm F/1.7 R WR GF 100-200mm F5.6 R LM OIS WR I shot some portraits, landscape and close ups, against my X-H2 with equivalent focal length optics. I am willing to share my conclusions and pictures, but only if I get some interest here, otherwise there is no point in spending hrs put it all together.

According to the Rumors website, the X100VI will have the same lens, battery and weatherproofing as the V. It is expected to have a 40 MPx sensor and the latest processor, as well as IBIS and be only 1 mm larger. If that's the case, I for 1 will not be upgrading. RESOLUTION 40 MPx instead of 26 MPx is SQROOT (40/26) = 24% resolution increase. Hardly noticeable IMHO. IBIS I am able to shoot low shutter speeds with my V without IBIS, so I don't need more things to drain the battery or to go wrong. EVERYTHING ELSE no change, so I am saving my $$. What about you guys, who is planning to upgrade from a V to a VI?

I've been an avid ON1 licensed use since LR went subscription. I had update to the latest every time and thus I have ON1 Photo Raw 2024 MAX license at the current moment. I am running on a Mac Studio M1Ultra with 128 GB ram and 4 TB SSD connected to 2x 5k LG Ultrafine monitors. So should have enough grunt. I now find that SOME of my X-H2 raw files cannot be opened by Photo Raw 2024. BUT other raw files taken seconds apart and in the SAME FOLDER with the SAME settings, can open fine. Also Photo Raw 2023, as well as a bunch of other photo editors CAN open the these files with no problem. On1 support had not been able to fix this, to date. The sent me a link to a Beta version of 2024, admitting that the last shipped version has major bugs, which were fixed by this beta - but alas, it is exactly the same. Here is a screen grab of both v2023 and 2024 side by side: Open for comments, but please refrain from telling me to just use LR or Photoshop, or C1, etc.! Thanks for your understanding.

I have the Fuji XF 56mm R WR, and had the previous Gen 1 too. My philosophy is pretty simple, and I appreciate that it may not be shared by everyone, but that's ok. I bought into the Fuji eco system, because of a range of factors, including their quality and their kyzen support. Therefore I rather pay for a Fuji lens and know that it is well supported and high quality. If ever there was an issue, then Fuji will try to fix it for me. I would consider 3rd party lenses only if there was no Fuji alternative, or I had a special desire to experience it. I have no hesitation in recommending the XF 56mm F/1.2 R WR as a top lens, which I am using on my X-H2 to create 40 MPxl images that are optically brilliant. Just me 2 cents' worth...

Agree 100%. Very quickly we become used to just ignoring the irritating "Advertisements", which kind of defeats the object of having them in the first place. Except of course if Amazon contributes to the site's running costs.

Thanks Rene and jerryy for responding. Just been looking through Rod Lawton's site as Rene suggested. It is an excellent, balanced and informative source of information. Thank you for suggesting it - I was unaware of it.