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Paul Szilard

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Paul Szilard last won the day on May 6 2021

Paul Szilard had the most liked content!

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    https://www.paulsmedia.au

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    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Bible, Photography, video production, motorcycling, computers

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  1. I also use Tentacle Sync E devices. Just leave one device plugged into the mic input for each camera. You seem to be a bit emotional - I don't find AF "crap" at all. I agree, however that limiting TC to Ultrasync is very annoying to everyone who has a different system, like you and me! DMJpix's description is very comprehensive, but just reading it, puts me off from buying Ultrasync boxes. LOL. I am very happy with Tentacle Sync E syncing to my iPhone time of day. DMJpix - thank you for taking the time to document how to use the Ultrasynce Blue with Fujifilm.
  2. Or just pull out the camera's memory card and use a card reader! I got a couple of CFExpress Type B readers from Amazon for about $25 each. Just make sure that you use a fast (10Gbit/sec) USB-C cable.
  3. This can happen with slow or subpar memory cards. Try without the SD card inserted and just a CFExpress Type B card.
  4. Quoting from DPREVIEW https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review
  5. I find the histogram most useful to judge a luminosity distribution of the image. If I turn on the blinkies the I can easily sport any blown highlights and make exposure adjustments accordingly.
  6. Not really an answer, but I personally would not bother wasting an H2 to use as a webcam. I have an INSTA360 LINK, which is absolutely brilliant. I know it's an extra expense, but I can recommend it. I use it all the time with Zoom and FinalCut Pro recordings. Meanwhile back to your situation - what spec computer are you using? Can you set the camera to the lowest resolution and bit-rate? I suspect that the problem would be at the computer end of the equation where it may have problems processing the feed.
  7. Which Fuji body are you using? I am pretty sure that the H2/S can do that, but probably not the H1. If you are on H2, I can have a dig into my camera's menu for you, if you like.
  8. I agree with you 100%. (I chose the X-H2, but in this compare it is the same IQ as the X-T5).
  9. I can recommend PhotoMechanic (Pro?) for culling and tagging and rating.
  10. I usually use -1, but it depends on where you deliver to.
  11. I don't have a definitive answer, but it seems to be that ON1 can get confused(!). Using this "trick" it is ignoring previous read attempts and seemed to have solved my problems. I had about a dozen photos that were problematic. Hopefully ON1 will fix this "feature" in the future. Glad it worked for you.
  12. Hmmm. Thanks for getting back. Next thing to try. Quit ON1 Create a temp folder Use Finder (on Mac) or Explorer (Windows) to copy the image files that have the problem, to the temp folder Start ON1 and browse the copied files IF they wok, then from inside ON1, drag them to their original location and when prompted, select Replace Report back!
  13. Try this: Quit ON1. Delete any XML or .ON1 file with the same name as the photo. Start ON1 and see if you can open the file. Report back on the results, please.
  14. LOL. No, you can disagree. I love intelligent and humorous banter. Ok, here is my text summary, with images to follow, once I have sorted the 100GB of files I took on this exercise. And this describes one of the unavoidable side effects of shooting 200MB raw files. This will eat up your storage and what's worse is the space in your DAM. My recommendation is that you get to be diligent and ruthless when culling. Convert to JPG (or just KEEP the JPG) for the majority and then keep RAW files for the specials. I do have about 90TB of space however, so not a big problem for me. Re the camera: I was using a GFX100S, not the latest GFX100ii. Never the less it sports a really useful IBIS and good AF, which is accurate if not the fastest on the planet. I realise that the GFX100ii will out perform the one I had, and I think if I did decide to join the G brigade, I would probably go to that one. Size: I had absolutely no problems with size, but then I wasn't taking this hiking up the Himalayas. I loved the larger LCD and viewfinder. DOF: I was expecting a narrower DOF than the XF, but I was still amazed that even at f16 landscapes were not totally in focus. This means that one has to shoot f22 or f32, which slows down the shutter speed and also makes me wonder why I would spend huge $$ for f1.7 lenses! Lenses: I had 2 primes and 2 zooms to play with. Other than physical size, I could not detect any noticeable image IQ difference. For portraiture I was shooting f4 or f5.6 anyway. Image IQ: Of course this is where the rubber hits the road, isn't? The GFX certainly does deliver. What was really funny though, was that I shot very similar pics on my X-H2 and had them in the same folder on my drive. On more than one occasion, I would open a subtropical rain forest shot or a portrait, and think, vow medium format is brilliant - only to discover that I was looking at a shot from the X-H2! This is not to say that the GFX isn't even better, but it is to say that the X-H2 is outstanding, when used correctly. The G shots excelled in not blowing out the hightlights or clipping the blacks, and the colours in 16 bit are just unparalleled. The H2 however, not only saves a motza in drinking vouchers, but is MUCH faster focussing (birds in flight, anyone?) and you can shoot wide apertures to get similar results. Conclusion: It's a win-win choice. If the wallet can fund a GFX system in addition to an FX system, then you won't be disappointed, but for now, I am very happy having an X-H2 and an X-H2S and my 19 lenses. The REAL BAD NEWS is that my friend bought the GFX100ii and 2 lenses, but he is lusting after a Hasselblad (foolish person) and had threatened to offer me his 1 month old GFX kit at a good price! Please send donation to my PayPal account, so that I can do a long term review!
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