dcriner

The Fujifilm SP-3 photo printer is a lot of fun. It can be connected to a smart phone, via WiFi, or directly from any Fujifilm camera that is setup to communicate directly via the Instax Communication printer settling, - which includes my X100F. Setting things up with my X100F and our two smart cellphones was pretty easy. The quality of the photos are pretty good. Supposedly, it takes of couple of minutes for the image to fully develop. Make that 10-12 minutes for maximum image quality. When setting up communication, you need to enter the serial number of the SP-3 printer, which is engraved in tiny print on the bottom of the printer. You will need to have a magnifying glass! They could have printed the serial number on the box label, but no.

With my X100F, I sometimes want bokeh, to make backgrounds out of focus. Other times, particularly for landscapes, I want a long depth of field. I have an app on my phone to check the hyperfocal distance, which can help predict the depth of field - but I rarely take the time to use it. Same with bokeh. Here's a quick way to deal with each. For bokeh, you want the largest aperture and let the camera select the shutter speed. There is no "aperture priority" selection, per se. Just set the aperture ring on the lens at a fairly wide-open selection. Then, check the camera's screen to see if the f-stop and shutter speed are within reason. If OK, press the shutter button. Done. Now for depth of field, set the aperture ring to a stopped down f-stop, check the computer's settings, and trip the shutter.

Good info - thanks. Like you, I've had problems with USB connections - not just from Fuji cameras, but from other camera manufacturers as well. Ditto with uploading pix from cameras via Wi-Fi. My solution is to pull out the memory card from the camera, and insert it into my PC's card slot. That seems to be more reliable and is a much faster transfer connection.

From the description of new features in 2.0, I didn't note anything too earth-shattering, but I went ahead and installed it. No problems encountered.

Why does "drive" mean that? In English? "Drive" can be a noun or a verb, but whatever, I don't get it. Maybe a bad translation from a non-native English speaker?

OK, thanks, that fixed it. I don't know how I wound up turning on the bracketing in the first place. In my defense, the DRIVE command is perhaps a bit misleading, or at least not self-explanatory. Drive what? Oh well, onward and upward.

My x100f takes three shots, with exposure bracketing. I want just one shot. I have the mode switch set to "S" - single. How can I stop bracketed shots? Thanks.

I miss the DoF marks on the aperture ring - which my X100f doesn't have, but most film cameras do have. I guess there just isn't enough room on the lens barrel.

Here is a snapshot of a backyard scene with a large dynamic range using ACROS film simulation and built-in yellow filter. (No artistic effect was attempted or achieved): http://imageshack.com/a/img922/4981/LjqU5y.jpg This is an example of what B&W film users would classify as a difficult-to-print image. There is detail in the shadows - the lower part of the corn plants and the lawn in the shadow of the shed. The siding of the shed itself is smooth vinyl, so there is no detail to be seen - the highlight may or may not be blown out. (If it were a film negative, I'd examine it with a loupe.) The firmware-based yellow filter pops out the clouds a bit. The usual mantra for B&W film is "expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights." With film, this image would have required quite a bit of manual darkroom work, at least for me, to achieve what was accomplished inside the X100F. And, with roll-film, it is impossible to develop each frame separately, so the highlights would have to be addressed during printing.

I've taken but a few, experimental, B&W photos, using the ACROS film simulation - just to observe the dynamic range....dark blacks with shadow detail, plus highlights that aren't blown out. In my experience, those X100F photos would have been difficult, at least for me, to print in a wet darkroom. I haven't taken any photos worthy of posting from an artistic point of view. Maybe later. Try it yourself.

I have experience with wet darkroom B&W processing. My X100F is surpassing that. I'm running with auto white balance, auto dynamic range, and ACROS film simulation.