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Highlander123

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  1. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Golden Oxen in News Fujifilm X-H2   
    Yes, My X-H1 is a great camera.
    No need for me to upgrade, stills only shooter makes it even less likely.
    There sure are high expectations for the X-H2, however, could be hard to resist.
    Sure will be interesting, May right around the corner.
  2. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Fujiron in News Fujifilm X-H2   
    I could care less how a screen does or doesn't articulate the deal breaker for me will be the rumored cost of $2,500 which is a lot for fixed income folks. I really enjoy my X-H1 and was looking forward to the 2 until i heard the price.
  3. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to joergs in Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)   
    Splendour of the Seas by JS-photographie, auf Flickr
     
    X-E1 with XF 14
  4. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Stockografie in Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)   
    Row,row, row your boat by Stockografie, on Flickr
  5. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Glyno in Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)   
    This is my first post, Hello!
    A few miles from where I live is the Dee Estuary, the River Dee being the original border of England and Wales. On the English side is the village of Heswall and the river there consists mainly of mud flats. I've posted a small selection of photos I took earlier today of some abandoned boats in various states of disrepair. This is one of those places where I always think better photos can be had when the weather is a bit more on the gloomy side. Unfortunately, today has been warm and sunny!
     
    boat at heswall by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    boat at heswall by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    cabin by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    boat at heswall by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    boat at heswall, detail by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    skipper by Glyn Morton, on Flickr
     
    Thanks very much for looking,
    Glyn
  6. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to mbart in Boats, ships & Ocean liner (OPEN TOPIC)   
    Standby by sgt.floydpepper.hh, auf Flickr
  7. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Lumens in Fujifilm X-T camera type only for stills   
    You take a short sentence outside of what I said to completely distort what it is I actually said.  The XT-3 does have some advantages over the XT-2 and when it comes to going out to shoot moving subjects, the XT-3 is what is in my bag.  But when it comes to ISO performance and a cleaner RAW file I find my XT-2 files to be a much higher quality than my XT-3 files. 
    Granted this is just my opinion, but I know quite a few others who feel the same.
  8. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Fujimann in Repair X-T2 or New X-t3   
    I have both the X-T2 and the X-T3 and I find myself going to the X-T2 more often. Not sure why but it's something I've noticed that I do. I like the X-T3 but love the X-T2. It's seems maybe simpler. I just thought if I gave that info it may help a little to make your decision. 
  9. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to johant in 18-135 mm or 55-200 mm lens?   
    I think the 10-24 and the 55-200 would make a good travel kit if you want to take zoom lenses with you.
     
    One thing the 18-135 has over the 55-200; it is a WR lens.
  10. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to Nero in 18-135 mm or 55-200 mm lens?   
    I had the 18-135mm and sold it. It's not a bad lens, but it's not a great one either. Whenever I was shooting something where I specifically wanted a longer focal length, the 135mm was rarely enough. Also, the 55-200mm has exceptional image quality. I shoot 90% of my photos with primes, but the 55-200 never disappoints me in sharpness or overall image quality. It doubles as a decent portrait lens too if you open up the aperture, zoom it, and step back a bit.
     
    I would also say that if you enjoy landscapes, the 55-200mm is something I never go without for landscapes. It seems counter-intuitive at first, but a moderate telephoto zoom can get you great landscape photos in specific environments. I've shot the Swiss Alps with the 10-24 and the Cascade Mountains with the 55-200 and got great images in both cases. Excellent and underrated landscape tool.
  11. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to rolf in would you consider this 55-200 as decentered?   
    I'm OK with the results I get at 200 mm

  12. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to edaubie in Real Estate Photography   
    For interior / RE I use an X-T1 and the 10-24.
    Lighting with yongnuo flashes (I have 4 of them but you don't need as many for most RE shoots) and an RF-605 yongnuo trigger to trigger them. You can also use the the YN560-TX as a trigger which allows you to remotely control the power of your flashes.
     
    Both triggers can be wired to the small jack on the side of your x-t1 for remote  triggering of your camera (I use another yongnuo trigger for that).
     
    The ability to recover the shadow details from the RAF files still amaze me.
     
    You can correct the verticals in LR or Photoshop but I would recommend DXO Viewpoint which makes it so easy.
     
    And if you need advices, look for Scott Hargis ebook and the PFRE web site.
     
    Oh, and iso 200 for clean files, f8 for a good depth of field and a sturdy tripod.
     
    You can see my work at grand-angle-interieur.fr
     
    Cheers
  13. Like
    Highlander123 reacted to jonathan7007 in Real Estate Photography   
    I still do 99% of my interior work when at a vacation rental property on full frame with Canon tilt and shift (17 or 24, usually tethered) but I always look to see if there is a new way to do this on the Fuji body. I want my images to be different so try to make images that show the room from normal adult 6 foot eye height. This approach creates a visual language (or dialect) of traditional architectural photography. I *have* done some TS captures hand held... I wish they still produced a 35mm instead of 45mm. (I had the 35mm FD version years ago but those go for $1000 now!)
     
    Real estate agents are so price conscious and in a rush so I want to come up with a faster method that doesn't give up all the TS benefit. Everyone here expects all windows to look "natural" which means bracketing, no matter which software solution you choose for post-processing the final blended result. So a tripod is a must where window are present-well, almost always. Adam, do you approach this differently? With enough flash power and the right ceiling and room configuration you could do this in one shot, but that is impossible to know without a scout. I sometimes take inside one Einstein and a Vagabond battery on a stand, brightest 8" reflector. Paul Buff transmitter/transceiver connection.
     
    So a simpler shift adapter for an older full frame lens (big enough circle) that allows aperture control. Is that only true of the Nikon mount engineering? How about Voightlander 15 for Nikon? Reading the above responses it appears that there was a change in Nikon engineering a while ago, and that I must stay with an older Nikon mount. Which configurations stop down manually? Adapter will have to allow rotation to shoot vertically.
     
    There are several folding stools to look at. I have a little $11 one foot version-terrific small folded size, and I just keep it in the truck. I noticed someone came up with a two-step example for $45!
    http://www.amazon.com/Range-Kleen-SS2-Double-Stool/dp/B007EEG7M0?ie=UTF8&keywords=folding%20stepstool&qid=1465492768&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6
     
    I found a used aluminum Gitzo 509 tele-studex that is very tall, very heavy. I love it. No weight savings there! But for real estate maybe the Manfrotto I have will work, equivalent to the current 055X. Hand hold where possible.
     
    Could be that all this work to move the capture to a Fuji body isn't worth the hassle if one already has the full-frame tools. Just simplify the process with a different configuration of the "kit" and go with that, because the biggest hurdle really is the few wide-enough optics for the APS-C sensors. 
     
    Hmm, might try that shifting Laowa if I can adapt it and the adapter doesn't constrict the image/vignette as soon as there is any shift.
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