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FearTheXNoob

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Everything posted by FearTheXNoob

  1. Absolutely agree with batteries. And as a personal preference: A better camera strap, like a Back Rabbit or Sun sniper. As long as you only have one lens or are shooting during hiking, sports, etc., this is way better than a bag. And don't forget batteries.
  2. Interesting topic, already good a few ideas out of it. I do the following: I shoot RAW only Import everything into Lightroom Look through the images, X those that will be deleted Rate the best ones (which are most likely to be shown to someone) with 1-5 stars, and edit them Out of a series pick the best one only and star that Use synchonise if necessary Once done: In grid view delete all the X'ed images Export all the 1 star and above image to Flickr as a backup Change all non-stared RAW to compressed lossy DNG (takes up no more space than JPEG but is more flexible if I really need to process one of those images later on. That said, it never happened as far as I remember). Backup the files and catalogue to an external HD I rarely use JPEGs, even though they are good. I just could not find a workflow for that (if I want to keep the possibilies of RAW development)...
  3. I noticed, but I'm not sure how much of you real opinion is hidden inside. So instead of continuing along that track (which would be kind of OT ), I tried to re-iterate my meaning.
  4. That's a good example. Rico's book is not structured as a manual (describing each button/feature separately), but his approach is more use-case centered. People usually need help when they have a certain problem, and the solution is rarely just one button, but most of the time a sum of multiple things users need to know. That's one reason why his book probably helps people more than a manufacturer's manual.
  5. No, you're blowing my meaning out of proportions. I'm just saying that manufacturers need to do what they can so that their products can be understood without memorising a manual. It's called usability and is currently very important in almost all areas of IT. Just remember: Before the iPhone people rarely ever used internet on their phones, because it was too cumbersome and rewards were not fulfilling. Then Apple came along and changed all that. So instead of trying to teach people to use the manual for years and years without success it might be wiser to look for a better approach to educate people about a products capabilities - a more intuitive and fun approach. They will probably never cover everything and everyone, but almost everything would be better than manuals. I'm also not against providing updated manuals for those who want o have them. As you said, if you'd pay for that service and it's profitable for companies: why not? But for the majority a new, better approach might be more reasonable...
  6. Of course I know RTFM - you did note the self irony in my post, did you? The problem is that for years and years manufacturers have been writing manuals and told their users to RTFM. And for years and years users have been ignoring it, because it just doesn't answer their questions. Instead of complaining manufacturers should think hard how they can help users better than with manuals as they are right now...
  7. X-T1, Samyang 8mm Fisheye
  8. X-T1, 10-24
  9. I usually don't bother with the manual after having read it once. One of the reasons is that due to FW updates it is not up-to-date anyway. Another one is that I consider myself tech-savvy and usually get around very well without it. That being said, there are some hidden features and dependencies that I didn't figure out or forgot...
  10. I didn't buy a Fuji because I want something small, so size is not a criteria for me. The question is whether IQ and AF speed differences are big enough to justify the 16-55 over the 18-55 for me. Anyway, after watching the videos with FW 4.0 and reading some of the enamored owner's opinions I've now ordered the 35 1.4. Looking forward to try it out soon.
  11. Why do you think Fuji wants to offend anyone? See it from their perspective: The FW was never meant to be publicly available, it was meant for reviewers and beta testers. Those people have ways of uninstalling it, reverting to an old version or whatever. Now that it's out in the wild they need to spend resources to determine how they make the best of the situation and the potential consequences for their customers. On the one side they can not blame the hardcore Fuji fans, on the other hand they clearly stated it was beta and no one should install it. Like flysurfer said, this is the first time they made such a version available so widespread. If this leak causes too much effort, they may well decide to not do anything like that in the future, in order to prevent harm for their customers and themselves. Just one scenario - the real consequences depend on whether they find problems with updating from the beta FW etc.
  12. Interesting, kim seems to think there is not much of a change with the 16-55 a couple of posts above.
  13. Thanks for the update, that sounds great!
  14. Did anyone try its effect on the 16-55 yet?
  15. Well, I'm currently deciding wether to buy the 16-55 or a couple of primes (35, 16?). I want fast AF for the occasional action shoot and and shallow depth of field/light gathering capabilites. The 35 f/2 sounds like it will offer better AF speed, BUT it would also only be F/2 - which is very close to 2.8 from the zoom, so the advantage is kind of negated for me. Btw, I'm a flexible shooter. I enjoy shooting primes but also the flexibility of zooms. Just in case you're wondering.
  16. Hi all, I'm interested in the 35 1.4 to complement my current lenses (8, 10-24, 18-55, 56, 50-140). Many people seem to love the lens, but I've also heard not so great things about the AF speed. So my question to you: How bad is the AF speed, say compared to the 18-55? Thanks in advance!
  17. How big is the difference? I currently own the 18-55 and one of the main reasons to consider the 16-55 would be AF speed...
  18. The Ona sound very nice, but it's a bit expensive. I've been looking for a bag to hold my X-T1 with 2-3 lenses, as well as a 13'' notebook for ages now. Can anyone recommend a bag that is a little cheaper?
  19. Thanks for the link. Really like your work and your approach resonates with me.According to the feedback on your website you're great to work with - having artistic and human factors together is a rare thing, if my experience with local wedding/event photographers is an indicator. Concerning the topic: You manage to cover every situation using primes because you have multiple bodies. So I guess there are now two approaches to photpgraphiing with primes only: 1. Pre-visualize the pictures you want to take an put on the suitable lens for each part of the wedding 2. Have multiple bodies, each with different focal lengths to be able to switch between them quickly Edit: After reading my text a second time it was kind of weird and I rephrased it.
  20. I found the cause of the problem: Face Detection needs to be turned off for this to work! Stupid me and thanks for the response.
  21. Hi all, does "Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area" (shooting menu #5) work for you X-T1 owners? For me it looks like it does not - when I move the center of the frame metering changes a lot, but when I just move the AF point it does not. That's kind of dissapointing and has now bugged me for some time - just want to know if it's just me...
  22. Thanks for the feedback! Is this interview already available somewhere?
  23. I bought a Nikon 300 4.5, same/similar to the one Jeff Kane uses. With focus peaking it works very well and I'm satisfied with the results. However, manual focusing has climbed my list of things to improve because of that lens...
  24. So it basically comes down to experience - that's what I feared. However, what do you do when you have your 16mm lens attached for group shots and all of the sudden a funny/cute/interesting scene is happening somewhere a little farther away? Have your second body prepared for exactly that situation? Thanks for your responses so far!
  25. Home or Captivity? (Shot with X-T1 and a Nikon 300mm manual lens)
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