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DashingElegance

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  1. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Gaz55 in FujiFilm 16-55 f2.8 with MCE-11   
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  3. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to mdm in Which lens should I buy next?   
    I've started with quite a wide range of FLs. 14mm was my wide, 200mm was my tele and everything in between was my normal...
    However, as time went by I re-established my limits and today 23f2 is my wide, 27f2.8 is my normal and 35f2 is my tele. Well, I like to do landscapes as well, here is the recent one shot with my tele.
     

     
     
    For me it's just right and now I don't need to go any wider in the vast majority of cases. So I vote for 23f2.
  4. Like
    DashingElegance got a reaction from konzy in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Thank you all for your great suggestions. I think I'm gonna go with 23mm f2. Tried it in fuji store and though I like 35mm f2 also, I'm afraid it's too narrow for portraits and landscape in the background.
    Not going to buy it right away, will wait for a sale.
     
    Thank you.
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to mostlyphotos in Fuji X-T2 23mm f2 - ACROS Examples   
    I recently added the excellent Fuji 23mm f2 to my collection of Fuji Primes.
    I have put some quick shots taken using the X-T2 and ACROS simulation on my blog... (Click Bait )
     
     
    Chris
     

  6. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to konzy in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Hello DashingElegance,
     
    I agree with what spilla said above. If your main concerns are (1) travelling light and (2) being in low light situation, here is my advice:
    - 18mm f/2: good image quality, great for landscapes, and not bad for environmental portraits/street (though some might find it a little too wide).
    - 23mm f/2: my favourite focal length, good for most landscapes (but sometimes too narrow), great for street photography and environmental portraits. I use this focal length and aperture on my X100T, and I'm happy in most of the situations.
    - 35mm f/2: great image quality, very sharp, very fast autofocus, great for portraits and street, generally not so good for landscapes due to the narrow focal length (unless you need a detail shot)
    - 35mm f/1.4: it's a bit more expansive and has a slower autofocus than the f/2 version, but the image quality is great.
     
    All lenses are fast (f/2, f/1.4), small and light, some are weather sealed (23, 35 f/2) (but it's half-useful since the X-T10 isn't weather sealed).
     
    If price is also a criteria, you can find the 18mm and 35mm easily on the 2nd hand market. The 23mm is more recent, so more difficult to find.
     
    I wouldn't go with the 27mm: even though it's a nice lens, it's speed won't be much of an improvement (f2.8).
     
    So to me, the only question is the focal length: what will you photograph? 
    - Mostly landscapes: 18mm f/2
    - Mostly street: 23mm, 18mm, 35mm (actually everyone has his own preference, but a majority of people prefer the 23mm)
    - Mostly portraits: 35mm, 23mm
    - A bit of everything: 23mm or 18mm
     
    Hope this helps!
     
    Konzy
  7. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to spilla in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Very much agree with this suggestion. The 23f2 and 35f2 would both suit your travel sized and low light needs, but are very different focal lengths. You need to decide what sort of perspective suits your shooting.
  8. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to mostlyphotos in Lens for travelling on low light   
    18-135mm for travel with 16mm f1.4 and 23mm f2 - I have the 35mm f2 but don't find that I use this as often as the 16 and 23
  9. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Larry Bolch in Lens for travelling on low light   
    One of the best landscapes of the past year, I shot with a 200mm equivalent focal length. Very dramatic mountain against storm clouds. On the other hand, I love photographing prairie with superwide lenses, emphasising the vastness. For landscape features, any focal length between the two. I often shoot panoramas with lenses around 100mm and stitch them together. Very high pixel count and extremely high detail. The 35mm with its extreme sharpness works extremely well with both in-camera stitching and stitching in processing.
     
    I am a great fan of OIS since much of my shooting is done in available darkness or extreme focal lengths. However, I accept it is a very limited solution to a fairly rare range of problems. With my X-Pro1 and X100, I am shooting primes exclusively. My subjects are almost all people living their lives. OIS with the Fuji cameras would be no advantage at all. I have learned to hand-hold with sufficient steadiness to ensure sharp results. Lean against walls, rest your elbows on a table or chair back. Crank the ISO up to whatever is needed. A bit of noise trumps satin blurs every time. No matter how smooth, with no detail, your image is ruined.
     
    Just as learning to steer a bike so you don't end up in the canal, learning to hold a camera steady is one of the fundamentals to be practised and learned. It is fundamental to all photography. With practice, you find out how slow a shutter speed you can risk with any given focal length. For APS-C cameras, a person in prime condition may be able to use the 1/1.5×focal length rule of thumb. It would say that the lowest shutter speed for the 35mm lens would be 1/52.5th of a second—1/60th in the real world. Shorter exposures are generally preferable. Wide apertures and high ISO ratings provide these goodies. Keep an eye on your results and change your workflow to suit. It is no more difficult to become a musician on a new instrument than to be a photographer fluent with a new camera. Nor is it easier. In both cases, study and practice wins the day. We are not born with the skills and knowledge, but we can learn and practice.
  10. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Tikcus in Lens for travelling on low light   
    No I don't think no OIS will be a problem.
     
    If your taking photos with people in them you need to keep a minimum shutter speed of at least 1/60s (with children probably 1/120s) or you will have motion blur. OIS only helps with camera shake not motion blur
     
    For photographs where motion blur is not an issue (landscapes etc) to avoid camera shake try and keep the minimum shutter speed at the focal length of the lens. I can handhold the XF35 F/1.4 at 1/30s but try not to shoot at less than 1/60s to make sure of no camera shake.
     
    I'd really recommend shooting in manual mode and consider remapping a function button to ISO, so it is quicker to change, preventing the camera in one of the semi-automatic modes making a bad decision regarding Shutter speed, Aperture, or ISO (or at the very least set the boundaries of how low you want the Shutter speed to go and how high you want the ISO to go.) The camera does not know what you are wanting to capture it is just exposing the photograph correctly based on what it has metered
     
    Exposure
     
    Aperture - Controls the amount of light that reaches the sensor and the depth of field (creates separation between focus point and background)
    Each F-Stop movement doubles the amount of light that reaches the sensor (e.g. F/1.4 allows twice as much light as a F/2.0)
     
    As far as exposure is concerned Aperture @ F/1.4, Shutter speed @ 1/60s and ISO 200 = Same exposure as Aperture @ F/2.0, Shutter speed @ 1/30s and ISO 200 = Same exposure as Aperture @ F/2.0, Shutter speed @ 1/60s and ISO 400
     
    Shutter Speed - Controls the amount of light reaching the sensor, and controls motion.
    ​Each time the shutter speed is halved double the amount of light reaches the sensor, with the trade off of motion blur (not always a bad thing, as sometimes you want to show movement, not have a perfectly frozen image)
     
    ISO - Amplifies the amount of light received at the expense of noise/grain.
    Personally I always try and shoot at the lowest ISO (200) as long as I can create the image I want as I'm not a fan of noise, but for example if i'm taking a low light portrait and I'm already at F/1.4 with a shutter speed of 1/60s, I would rather increase the ISO to get the correct exposure than reduce the shutter speed and have motion blur on my portrait. Noise is acceptable at quite high ISO's on the X-T10 but it depends on what is being photographed and the output medium you are wanting to use  
  11. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Tikcus in Lens for travelling on low light   
    That would depend on how far you can walk backwards
     
    as you have the Kit lens, It is quite small, I'd be using that for any wide angle shots landscapes etc.) Since you would normally want an extensive depth of field (in the F/8-F/22 range).
     
    If i'm not photographing wildlife on a trip (birds etc) but not sure of the location, I would take 2 lenses with me the 18mm F/2.0 in my pocket/bag encase I need a wider angle shot and the 35mm F/1.4 attached to the camera. (18mm is just my go to 2nd lens out of the lenses I have, there are plenty of other lenses that could quite easily be used as a wider option).
     
    I personally don't miss the focal lengths between 18 and 35mm as I am normally happy to zoom with my feet between those focal lengths.
     
    The XF27mm is a great lens I can't compare it to the 35mm F/2 as I don't own it, but I don't use it very often as I don't find the 35mm F/1.4 heavy, it is a similar Field of View to the 35mm, and gives up 2 stops of light and F/2.8 is not bright enough for low light shooting for me, it would involve shooting at ISO 6400 instead of ISO 1600 for the same exposure, or reducing shutter speed to levels that may introduce motion blur
  12. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to adzman808 in Tone and colors on the 1.4 vs 2.0 WE lenses?   
    Have fun!
     
    http://fujifilmxmount.com/comparison/en/test-our-lenses/
     

     
    Both the 35s at F2
  13. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Nero in Should I get the 23mm f2?   
    As long as you can keep your hands even a little bit steady, you'll be fine without OIS, especially at 23mm focal length. The wider the lens, the slower the shutter speed you can get away with. Just watch your shutter speed in different lighting and situations as you get used to the lens. A very general rule is that you should try to keep your shutter speed at 1/(focal length of the lens in 35mm equivalent). So for the 23mm, you should aim for at least 1/35 second to be safe (that is assuming that your subject is not moving). If it's slower, then open up your aperture a little bit or increase your ISO.
     
    I have pretty steady hands, so I've found that I can usually get away with down to 1/20 second using my 23mm. As I get older, that will probably change, but for now I can do it! If I'm running really close to my limit for handheld shots, I'll usually take 2 or 3, which isn't a bad idea anyhow regardless of shutter speed if you think it's a good shot.
     
    About 85% of my photos are done with the 23 and 35mm primes and I have zero problems without OIS. You'll be fine once you shoot with it for a little bit and find your own limits for handheld shutter speeds.
  14. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to Warwick in Should I get the 23mm f2?   
    It won't. Modern sensors allow you to take pictures in surprisingly dim light - especially with a wide-aperture lens. If you look further up the page there are some might-time/dim light shots I took with the F2 lenses. It really isn't a problem.
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Like
    DashingElegance got a reaction from gregor_24 in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Wow thanks. Really love the quiet auto focus on the f2s. And smaller size too. Now I just have to figure which should I take, the 23 or 35. Thanks very much. It really help a lot.
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to gregor_24 in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Here we go:
     
    https://youtu.be/ZLdPo8i6VDc
    https://youtu.be/hgX9VCfNWVU
     
     
     
     
    Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  17. Like
    DashingElegance reacted to gregor_24 in Lens for travelling on low light   
    Maybe check youtube for some videos about the different lenses.
    Here one for the 23mm F2 vs. F1.4
    https://youtu.be/rXhM2dnZArs
     
     
     
    Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
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