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Ben Bishop

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  1. I think you're asking about the cover that protects the contacts in the body when the grip is removed. In that case "Yes, the cover that protects the contacts on the X-H1 is the same as the cover on the X-T2". Although I've seen a listing for a kit for the X-H1 that includes that cover, a PC socket cover, and one or two other items. My local dealer (in Canada) couldn't find a listing for the X-H1, ordered a pack for the X-T2 and it was great. It included a PC socket cover, a door and two of the soft inserts that cover the contacts in the body and the slide-in cover for the flash. The kit for the X-T3 is CVR-XT3 and will work just fine for you.
  2. It isn't easier. It's a marketing decision. A zoom is going to be heavier and slower than a prime in its range and harder to hold steady. The market for primes is much smaller than the market for zooms and they're more likely to be bought by people with a specific interest and, probably, better technique. I know these are great facts because I made them up myself and I'm impressed. Actually the 18-55 is lighter than the 16 1.4, but I suspect the average buyer is much more likely to buy a zoom and is happy to pay for stabilization rather than learn camera holds and body bracing to steady a lens. A really quick look tells me the only primes with OIS are the 80 macro and the 200. The only zoom without is the exceptionally heavy 16-55. That an inexpensive and light lens like the 15-45 has OIS suggests to me that it's a marketing decision - even in a budget lens people will pay for the anti-shake.
  3. I checked a couple of US dealers and the XC 50-230 is certainly a budget-friendly item. I bought a Minolta-Fuji adapter but haven't had any reason to use it with my Rokkor 200 4.5. The first choice is well under $300US and the second was under $200Cdn.
  4. Great idea. You could also put on a 16mm or 23 set mostly automatic for grab shots and a short tele under full control for design and architectural details. In film/manual focus days if the weather was bad I'd go out with a 24mm and a 50, if it was nice maybe a 35 and a 100 macro or 135. Old ideas still have value but the zooms today are great.
  5. I would buy the X-T1. As you're buying new I expect there's a warranty in case there's a manufacturing defect. The 18-55 zoom has image stabilization and good autofocus. If you buy a used lens how long will it take for you to know if there is a problem? I would buy the new one.
  6. I'd like to set up my custom settings for shooting situations but would like to copy the settings to the base so I can alter them without upsetting the complete custom set I've figured out. Is there a way to do this? Is it possible to reset the base setting to the factory settings?
  7. Prices for used are set by demand and it seems that used X-T1's are selling quickly at only a modest discount to the price of new. That tells me the relatively high price of a camera that has been superseded is realistic. I guess we're not the only ones watching for that drop!
  8. I wouldn't try it; the flash may fit in the shoe but the pin configuration will be different. I checked the specs and it doesn't appear that you have a PC socket, which is a simple socket that can trigger a flash. There are 3rd party units that use the Fuji layout but there's no conversion cables for you to use a Nikon flash on a Fuji camera.
  9. I just tried to order a FotodioX shift adapter that uses manual focus Minolta lenses on an X-T1. They were out of stock, so I just ordered a stright adapter. There are two factors that are important. The image from the lens has to be much wider than an APS-C sensor because we're using it off-centre. And there's the multiplier effect. So a 24mm Minolta MD Rokkor lens will work as a 36mm equivalent, but it will work well. I'll be using an 85mm and a 135mm in the adapter, which will give me a 128 and 202. As I rarely shoot long and do it from a tripod this works for me. YMMV.
  10. I just went through the process of choosing between the two (goodbye Canon). The scale tipped on control issues - Sony menus versus Fuji knobs. I made this decision after months of frustration with, for example, my new car's information centre; navigation and operation decisions and entertainment in a single box that encourage me to take my eyes off the road. My old radio was much better. I resent the idea that I should be trained to use their computer; they are too stupid to design a flexible system that mimics what we had (hello Mazda - only once). If the interface is non-intuitive then it was designed by someone ignorant of history and with more arrogance than common sense. I'm not giving my money to anyone who doesn't respect where I come from. Take your tattoos and social media and ignore someone else. And take your menu trees with you.
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