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16thEarl

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  1. G'day – just uploading this in case anyone finds it interesting… Using my X-T2, I did a timelapse sequence of sunrise the other morning (it’s the first 20 seconds of this video: https://youtu.be/aHztl6DsNTU). I’ve been experimenting with sometimes using fully manual settings, and other times leaving the camera to automatically choose a shutter speed. It was on auto shutter for this sequence. I’ve graphed the resulting brightness levels from the 580 images taken. While waiting 37 minutes for the image analysis to complete, my son and I were arguing about whether the graph would show a line or a curve. It ended up being something neither of us expected. (See attached image…) I was a bit surprised by the distinct shifts in brightness at the points where the camera decided to adjust shutter speed, for example from 1/20 to 1/27 at frame 56, or from 1/20 to 1/17 at frame 303. Looking at the EXIF metadata made me wonder: Does anyone know the difference between "Exposure Time" and "Shutter Speed Value". These tend to be different for the same image; for example, exposure 1/27, shutter 1/28. Are others using Fujifilm X-T2/X-T20 cameras for time-lapse? What sort of settings do you find give the best results? Cheers, Warwick
  2. One of the first photos I took with my camera had very strange, smearing of the out-of-focus blades of grass in the image. This topic has been very interesting to read, thanks, because I didn't understand what was going on, but now I reckon it's the same issue. I've included a small crop of my image here: To me, this looks bad in a way I haven't seen since using an Apple QuickTake 100 in the 1990s. In other respects, the image quality from the X-T2 is excellent. I'll just need to get some more experience with it, and work out how to minimise this smearing effect.
  3. Just after posting this message, I received a call from Fujifilm support, who were very helpful, and said that it's just chromatic aberration, which is corrected automatically in the JPEG image produced by the camera, but not in the external software I was using. I had wondered about chromatic aberration, but hadn't noticed it being quite so obvious in my photos before, so I thought there might have been something else going on. It still leaves me a bit unsure about what's the best raw development software to use. I've downloaded demos of everything I can get my hands on, and will have to do some more testing!
  4. G'day, I have a Fujifilm X-T2, which is my first X-Trans camera – so this question might just reflect my lack of experience… I took a photo of the ocean, using the standard camera settings with an compressed raw and JPEG image written to the camera's memory card. A small version of the JPEG image is shown here: If I develop the compressed raw file into a JPEG using software outside the camera, there seem to be magenta and green colours in the white highlight areas of the waves. In comparison, the in-camera JPEG image shows just white highlights. I've included a cropped section of my ocean photo here to show the difference: I tried using both Silkypix DS Pro 7, Affinity Photo and Iridient Developer (all for Mac). In each case I tried to use the default/standard settings in the program. The results were similar with the colours. I wanted to try DCRaw, but it didn't seem to handle compressed-raw (RAF) files at all. I'm not sure what software I should be using, and whether to suggest that Fujifilm should be releasing their in-camera raw-to-JPEG conversion software as stand-alone software that could be used outside of the camera. Can anyone suggest what's going on here? Thanks, Warwick
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