yukosteel

I had Nikon AF 300mm f4 at the time purchased X-E1. It was tough to focus using viewfinder, and almost impossible when using screen handheld. So just sold that glass as well as other Nikon stuff.
 
X-E2 and X-E2s have lower magnification mode in the viewfinder comparing to X-E1, and it makes focusing with all lens noticeably easier for me. I've realized that price went dramatically down for Nikon AF glass, and just purchased AF 300mm again almost two times cheaper then sold it in 2013.
 
Here's one of the result from this lens on X-E2s. I've purchased lens for bird shooting, but didn't catch nice bird yet : )
 

Hey guys - sorry for not responding for a long time!
I read many reviews about the lenses you showed me and also had some saved at my eBay account as a buying option.
But after getting more and more used to my X-T2 and my autofocus lenses I made the decision to sell my much loved X100T and buy a used XF 90mm lens from the money.
And what should I say - it was one of the best decisions I've ever made when it comes to camera gear.
So thank you for all your (budget) recommendations for manual lenses - I hope it will help other photographers when they're looking for a great tele prime lens.
 
Because of the focal length for landscape - I think I had most of the time the 90mm attached to the X-T2 when I was in Iceland the last 10 days:
 

Skaftafellsjökull #2 / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke
 

Skaftafellsjökull #1 / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke
 

Thakgil #2 / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke
 

Hvitserkur / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke (stitched pano)
 
Hope you like it

Good. One thing: don't trust to several threads you'll find on the net about what grease to use. When I started working on lenses I knew a guy (a wish-I-was-a-fixer) who said he used the grease #10 or 30 for helicoids, which is absolutely wrong. Too thick, the focus will almost get stuck. Use the #500 that works well in quite all situations.

That would be fine. Unfortunately there are sellers who have bought items that are not in the conditions that have been described to them, who are completely unaware that the lens has been opened, or cleaned, or used, anyways they not necessarily have to be lying.
If you get partial refund it's good, opening that lens is not a major work. Just use the right tools and get a good grease.

It's challenging to catch fast moving targets, but practicing helps.
 

 

 
 
 

One more shot right after the storm
 

there are older threads on the matter
 
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4676-has-anyone-used-leica-lenses-on-x-t1/
 
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2432-xpro-2-and-leica-zeiss-zm-lenses/
 
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/616-leica-50mm-f2-summitar-ltm/
 
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2172-x-t1-with-leica-summaron/
 
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/398-x-pro-1-with-m-mount-lenses/

One more shot right after the storm
 

That 300mm is already sensitive to atmospheric conditions, very far objects can be noticeably distorted by air mass fluctuations.
 
Mt Rainier, X-E2s + AF Nikkor 300mm f4, distance is approx 90 miles.

it is one of the best lenses that nikon ever made. Much more compact that it’s big brother 2.8, was much appreciated by people whom wanted to shoot with a lens lighter (and cheaper) than the that!
 
The IF makes focussing relatively easy because you don’t have to rotate the barrel all that much.
 
Of course this on a aps-c results in an angle even narrower than originally intended.

I had Nikon AF 300mm f4 at the time purchased X-E1. It was tough to focus using viewfinder, and almost impossible when using screen handheld. So just sold that glass as well as other Nikon stuff.
 
X-E2 and X-E2s have lower magnification mode in the viewfinder comparing to X-E1, and it makes focusing with all lens noticeably easier for me. I've realized that price went dramatically down for Nikon AF glass, and just purchased AF 300mm again almost two times cheaper then sold it in 2013.
 
Here's one of the result from this lens on X-E2s. I've purchased lens for bird shooting, but didn't catch nice bird yet : )
 

I own the 16mm, 23mm, and 35mm in the f/1.4 versions. These three form my main kit for most of my photography, with the 23 and 35 being on my camera about 85% of the time. You specifically mention night shots as one are that you need to cover. Are you wanting to do general purpose night photography or astrophotography (or both)? The 16mm has a fair amount of coma when used for astrophotography and a lot of people stop it down to f/2.8 for those types of shots, so it loses some of it's edge there. Among the Fuji lenses, the 23mm is probably the best I've used for astrophotography.
 
If you're looking for a wide angle prime for everything except astrophotography, the 16mm is by far the best in terms of image quality in my opinion.
 
Personally, I really enjoy street photography at night and have been very happy with the 23 and 35 for that use. The 23mm has lived up to being sharp and overall one of the best quality Fuji lenses I've used. 
 
I know that zooms are more convenient for travel, but after several years with Fuji, my kit has shrunk to the 16mm, 23mm, 35mm, and 55-200mm, for both everyday use and travel. I love those three primes enough that even with the "better" zooms like the 16-55mm, I will gladly trade a little versatility for the image quality (and image character) of the primes.

It's a relatively small nice lens that works great on Fuji bodies with simple LM>FX adapter.
Unlike previous version it has shorter focusing distance of 0.7m which is great.
 
I've purchased mine used and lens had some large dust particles inside on glass surface right in the aperture chamber.
It was tough to discover how to disassemble Voigtlander 50 1.5 Leica M mount version, so this picture may be helpful:
 

Checked lens performance after re-assembly. Works great.
 

Few words about "magic" F0.95 number.
 
Usually when photographers see that on the first time, they say (or think) "Wow! F0.95".
Yes, there are old film lens like Canon 50mm f0.95, which are massive and huge lens with extremely narrow DOF wide open.
But it's not something unusual in terms of APS-C or m4/3 frame coverage.
 
I'm ex-Nikon shooter, and often used quite popular lens like 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.4. With that lens + autofocus the narrow DOF on F1.4 is very usable for portraits.
 
With Fuji system, its nice and lovely XF 56mm 1.2 replaces Nikkor 85mm 1.4 it terms of DOF. And using 1.2 there is almost the same.
F0.95 35mm is just corresponding equivalent of Nikkor 50mm 1.4
 
So the main reason for me to try ZSM 35mm 0.95 - getting similar results I had with Nikon. From that perspective this "magic" 0.95 number is just regular F1.4 I got used to.
 
 

https://jonasraskphotography.com/2017/03/22/mitakon-35mm-f0-95-mk2-review/
 
Good to see a fresh review of the Mitakon 35mmF0.95 with great sample photos (which are rare for this lens).

I have been searching for small hood for my Zeiss Touit 32mm F1.8 because its included hood is too big. Especially it has caused big problem whenever I attach it to my X-Pro2. (Of course it doesn't cause problem when it is attached to X-T. But, still it is too big.)
Yesterday I happened to know LH-40N hood for for Voigtländer ULTRON 40mm F2 SLIIN. It is screw-in type inner hood for 52mm filter thread. Immediately I visited Voigtländer shop and bought LH-40N.
 
And, I tried it for Zeiss Touit 32mm.
 

 
Yeah! It became compact!
 

 
I worried about the vignetting. But, soon I noticed that the coverage of LH-40N is exactly the same as that of included 'big' hood.
I took some shots, and I couldn't find vignetting at all even though I attached LH-40N on protector filter. I tried both of slim protector in above picture and thicker Zeiss UV filter. Both of those two were all right.
 

 
One thing I don't like is 'Voighländer' text engraved on filter. But, at least its appearance is not bad.
 
 
I also tested LH-40N on Zeiss 50mm F2.8 Macro and Fuji XF 35mm F1.4. LH-40N works very well on Zeiss 50mm F2.8 Macro. But, on Fuji XF 35mm F1.4, it caused noticeable vignetting. So it can't be used on Fuji XF 35mm F1.4.

Well, that 2 adapters are just metal rings with corresponding mounts, there are no glass in adapters, so they do not affect lens in any way.
Focus distance remains the same - from 0.22mm to infinity.
 
I've recently started using Hawk's helicoid adapter for Leica M mount. It allows to focus with Leica M glass much closer, which is quite convenient with lens that has only 0.7m or 0.9m minimal focus distance.
With Nikon versions of Voigtlander 28mm 2.8 SL-II or Voigtlander 58mm 1.4 SL-II I can focus even closer with this adapter. But the main positive thing is - I just keep Hawk's helicoid on camera all the time and just switching Leica M lens or "adapted to Leica M" Nikon Voigtlanders.
 

Decided to share few interesting observations from comparing "two color" versions of exact same lens - Mitakon Mark II 0.95/35mm.
 
There are few obvious differences displayed on dealers site pictures - newer version has silver aluminum frame, red numbers for ft, and red dot marker for aperture position.

 
Deeper look unveils one more difference - silver version has more yellowish and greenish tint on glass surfaces, comparing to its "Dark Side" version.

 
Same from the rear look

 
One more positive difference in this new silver sample - aperture blades don't shake inside on f0.95 value (they do in the black version).
 
Other than that both lens deliver exactly same sharpness and contrast indoor. Will be interesting to try them under different light. Will share if notice any other difference.
And to my taste silver version looks more natural on Fuji-X silver/chrome bodies : )

Well, it has finally happened, a Contax > Fuji adapter! Third party Autofocus Contax lenses can be now used on Fuji!
 
 
https://fringerdev.strikingly.com
 
I don’t understad the price , is it really over $500? It will be a minority use in that case!
 

Keep looking for manual alternative of XF 27mm 2.8 lens.
 
Decided to try Voigtlander 28mm 2.8 SL II in Nikon F mount (Canon mount version is heavier and larger).
 
I like how it performs on Fuji sensor.
 
F2.8

 
F2.8

 
F5.6

Took out this bad boy on a wedding with my 2 Mkiv's. This lens worked great in a light form for my assistant. I purchased this lens and xt2 for personal use but the weight is very attractive. Couple samples from yesterday.
 
 
 
 
 

Hey Guys,
 
Just want to tell you that the seller of my lens will give me a refund (full price 430€) because they don't have any lenses in stock right now. So I guess i will search for a used 35 1.4 Fuji for that price..
Thanks again for your help!

Disassembly of Fujifilm XF56/1.2 Lens due to - unscrewed front element fixing bolt caused front element decentering and uneven sharpnes
 

Rest of images in album https://www.flickr.com/photos/11481887@N04/albums/72157675585590243