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yukosteel

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  1. Like
    yukosteel reacted to Denali3times in 56mm+two extension tubes...Rapport 1:1?   
    OK Guys...the results are absolutely amazing! After trying few macro lens options, I set my preference for a Micro-Nikkor 55mm 2,8 + tube. @Milandro, the curvature of the negative wasn't in the equation as my negative is maintained in place by an enlarger negative carrier. I can now confirm that my negatives reproduction are absolutely perfect. I compared them with some scans I get from a professional lab using a Nikon 5000ED scanner and mines are, way out, better with more tonalities and approximately the same pixel count when using the XPro2.
     
      Here are the useful information if someone goes the same way:
    Only real macro lenses give good to outstanding results  Micro-Nikkor 55/2,8 is an extraordinary lens I didn't test Fuji Macro because of high price and no need of autofocus but I believe it must be excellent  The negative must be flat so the use of an enlarger negative carrier is mandatory (or similar negative holder) The use of a remote trigger is mandatory (I use a cheap remote with cable from Amazon) My light source is an old X-Ray light (white balance isn't a problem with B&W negatives) The «scan» time is calculated in seconds, not in minutes. Only depend of the time it takes me to change negative in the carrier! WooHoo! Cost = zero/scan if I consider that I already have the XPro2 and a friend borrowed me his old 55mm with have a stiff focus ring so was never used. I made myself the reproduction rig with stuff I already had. Seriously I was hoping the results will be good but they are stunning. When taking time to test and refine all the variables, it works great. Now the only things I still must do is «scanning» 20 years of B&W photography...
  2. Like
    yukosteel reacted to konzy in 56mm+two extension tubes...Rapport 1:1?   
    It was tested by the guy behind Fuji vs Fuji blog, on a set of lenses, with examples: https://www.fujivsfuji.com/mcex-11-vs-mcex-16/
     
    But I doubt the 56mm can be a very good macro lens. That's really not its purpose, and macro extension rings are sadly limited by the laws of physics. My advice would be to use a dedicated macro lens. For scanning slides, perhaps a 1:2 would be enough? In that case, buy the 60mm from Fuji. It's small, sharp, awesome and is now easy to be found used, thanks to the newer 80mm.
     
    Otherwise, if you need 1:1, there are different options:
    - Native lenses: Fuji 80/2.8 (but far too expansive if you just want to scan slides), Samyang 100/2.8 (cheaper), Zeiss Touit 50/2.8, Meike 85mm (I think it's new too)
    - Adapted lenses from other brands. You can mount barely anything from Nikon, Canon, Tamron, Sigma... The old (and the new) 90mm lenses from Tamron are great 1:1 macro lenses (the oldest models are only 1:2 though), and can be found used in lots of different mounts.
    - The Raynox adapters. You don't get the quality of a dedicated macro lens, but you get close and it's not too expansive.
     
    Good luck!
     
    Konzy
  3. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from Omar Alamoudi in XF 27mm error   
    Hello Omar. The name plate has adhesive tape under it. I'd recommend to use more slim tool like on this picture.
     

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  4. Like
    yukosteel reacted to tourajsig2 in XF 27mm error   
    (Re: my post from 17.9.18 above) I did eventually get mine repaired. It was a focus motor failure. Very quick service from Fuji UK - it set me back £80. No problems since.
  5. Thanks
    yukosteel got a reaction from Omar Alamoudi in XF 27mm error   
    It may be gear problem due to use time. There are few blocking stoppers keeping focusing range and they may crack over time allowing lens to overfocus causing error.
    Another problem - could be electronics, common recommendation is to try to clean the lens contacts and see if it helps.
    Can you write more about your lens symptoms? I'll try to help discover what is wrong with it.
    If the lens is not repairable, then it can be reused to create manual focus mod of XF 27mm with constant F2.8.
    At your place I'd try to find the way to repair the lens, and if that is not possible would sell it for parts and purchase new one on eBay - there are plenty of them for about $200
  6. Like
    yukosteel reacted to Mike K in Leica R Lenses on X-Pro1   
    Leica Vario-Elmarit R 28-90mm  f2.8-f4.5    -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.

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  7. Like
    yukosteel reacted to Mike K in Leica R Lenses on X-Pro1   
    Leica R 100mm f2.8 APO-Macro Elmarit  -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.
    Image #1 @ f2.8
    Image #2 @ f5.6
     
    More to follow with other R lenses.....

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  8. Like
    yukosteel reacted to Mike K in Leica R Lenses on X-Pro1   
    Leica R 280mm f4 APO-Telyt @ f4   -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.
     
    As mentioned above, a cold afternoon with very flat grey light and the only victims I could find to photograph were my cats and my 3 friends from East Africa.
     
     
     
     

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  9. Thanks
    yukosteel got a reaction from Wolla in Indestructible Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 optics   
    After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear.
    The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort.
    Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2.
    Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.

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  10. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from frankinfuji in Lens review: Viltrox 85mm f1.8 on Fuji X-T30   
    Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
     

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  11. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from mdm in Lens review: Viltrox 85mm f1.8 on Fuji X-T30   
    Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
     

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  12. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from Bijanfotografy in Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro   
    Article on Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro with Fuji X-T30 camera.
    Image samples on 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens Flickr group.
    Article on disassembly, focus calibration of 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens
     

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  13. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from Hermelin in Mitakon 35 f/0.95 MKII   
    Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II
    Aperture ring is step-less, and it has same texture as focus ring and similar rotation effort. It's just named 35mm, but actually it is wider 33mm lens. Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy. Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid. I'd recommend to check other pictures taken with this lens. Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure. When aperture is wide open and you shake the lens - it is producing moving noise inside - that are aperture blades, and it is normal.
  14. Thanks
    yukosteel got a reaction from plaidshirts in Broken Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - converting to manual focus.   
    Modern Fujinon lens have electronical parts that may fail due to water damage or other reasons. In most cases it worths pay for repair, but sometimes repair costs are too high and its cheaper to just buy another sample. This Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 sample was electronically broken, so I've found relatively simple way to convert it into fully manual focus lens.
    More details in related article: Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - true manual focus mod

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  15. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from George_P in Fuji Support   
    I was highly impressed by Fuji Support when discovered single hot pixel on X-E1 (that time no pixel remapping in firmware menu like X-T2 can now). They fixed it without question, with express return shipment.
  16. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from George_P in X-t2 long exposure query   
    Davlin
    Fuji X-T2 (and other Trans X) is always showing shutter speed in:
    s.s. X (for 1/X < 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5 (1/2.5 seconds)
    s.s. X" (for X >= 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5" (2.5 seconds)
    There are no menu item to change that format. Just point attention if ["] is there - it means direct X number, if not - it is 1/X fraction of a second.
    Hope that helps.
  17. Like
    yukosteel reacted to Stonecroft in Fuji Support   
    I discovered that one of the screws was missing from the base of my MHG-XT2 Grip.  I contacted Fuji support to see if they could help.  4 days later 2 replacements arrived! That's what I call service!
  18. Like
    yukosteel reacted to JBW1763 in XT-2 Grip issues with battery, intermittent malfunctions, etc   
    So, I am late to this topic, but it finally happened to me.  I tried every troubleshooting method I could and finally found what has appeared to be a consistent fix for MY issue.  The issue is the same as mentioned, so this may help you, at least until a proper repair can be made.   My batteries were not being recognized, so the boost mode would not work, and occasionally I would see the grip batteries indicators pop up for a second or two on my screen and then disappear.  While checking all of the contacts I slowly unscrewed the grip tension wheel while the camera was still on.  I found that the batteries would suddenly show up after about two full rotations.  The contacts have apparently, over time, had some sort of short created by the constant pressure and now will lose contact if the grip is fully tightened down.  I temporarily fixed this by putting some 1mm thick mounting tape down on the grip in a few spots, to fill the tiny gap created by not having the tension down fully (don't take off the plastic film, or your grip will be permanently fixed to the camera).  Now, I can securely tighten the grip down to full tension, but still have that small gap, so there is not full pressure on the contacts.  This is a bit of a ghetto fix and probably not a permanent solution, but now my batteries are consistently showing on screen and the boost mode function is working fine.  I can barely see a bit of light between the grip and camera, so any weather sealing that was there is no longer, but at least I've identified the problem for my camera and maybe it will help you in a pinch until you can get it repaired.  

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  19. Thanks
    yukosteel got a reaction from TPiorkowski in Fish Eye Lens   
    I had Samyang 8mm - it is great lens. Now I have 7Artisans 7.5mm - it's also optically very good. However there are some mechanical warnings. You can learn more from this article:
    Disassemby - 7Artisans 7.5mm F.28 Fish eye lens
  20. Like
    yukosteel reacted to dfaye in Help please   
    Something else you could check: go into the AF&MF menu, then to Release/Focus Priority on p.2 of that menu. If your AF-S and/or AF-C priority selection is set to "Focus", then the camera won't take a picture unless the image is properly in focus. (I keep mine set to "Release" for both, even if it means a few out-of-focus shots).
    It might also be an idea to re-format your cards before trying again.
  21. Like
    yukosteel reacted to strat68 in Peak Design strap attachment   
    I had the same problem initially. I solved it by using a piece of cotton thread looped through the attachment cord. I fed it through the eyelet then pulled the cord through.
  22. Like
    yukosteel reacted to lamacchiacosta in Underwater housing case - X-T20   
    I bought the Meikon Seafrog in the end and at the moment I am still testing it before bringing my camera underwater. Everything looks like working smoothly and I did a test dive to see if I had any leakings but it seems there is none. It also had a sensor that activates a beeping alarm and a flashing LED light in case of any water leaks in.
    Works with the standard 3.5-5.6 XC lens, which I had to buy separately. Luckily I found a very good deal on eBay, which means that for about £300 investment I have the chance to shoot underwater. Shown that to my teachers and other divers I dive with and they all look impressed by it, for the price.
    At the moment I am back home with no chance to dive again until I finish my course theory, but I will keep you posted.
  23. Like
    yukosteel reacted to pete1959 in Fuji X-T2 weather-sealing issues?   
    Here is that other forums posters final report:
     
    As you all know, Fujifilm is handling my repair under warranty and I will receive my camera on Monday. Some of you were asking for details on the cause and damage assessment. Below is an email I received from Fujifilm:
    Your X-T2 body was evaluated by our technical staff and upon inspection moisture was found inside the camera body. This moisture had permeated some key components and was related to the camera malfunction you experienced. Although your camera is dust/moisture "resistant" and is weather sealed, it must have been exposed to a good amount of moisture. Body is not "water proof". In this case, we gave you the benefit of the doubt and decided to handle your service request under warranty at no charge. We appreciate your business.
    Though Fujifilm is covering my repair under warranty it was done so by giving me the "benefit of the doubt." Therefore, this appears to be a subjective decision by Fujifilm to cover my repair under warranty. I wonder under what conditions Fujifilm would not cover repair of moisture damage under warranty? It appears that covering moisture damage under warranty is still a vague issue. Then again, for all we know, Fujifilm could be covering all moisture damage under warranty. Anyway, I'm thrilled that Fujifilm covered the repair and I have a very positive impression of Fujifilm and their customer service.
  24. Like
    yukosteel reacted to merlin in X-T2 in-camera settings   
    Thanks for the suggestions!  I currently have two custom banks.  I am using Velvia for landscapes, and Provia for flowers, portraits, etc.  I have set both NR and sharpening to -3, since as you said that can be adjusted in pp, if necessary.
    Highlights are set to -1, and shadows to +1 for Provia and +2 for Velvia.
    The results have been quite good so far.
  25. Like
    yukosteel got a reaction from merlin in X-T2 in-camera settings   
    I'm personally setting NR -3 for all shots, because it's quite easy to apply NR later in post if really needed. Sometimes it's good to set Sharpness to -1 as well for more natural portrait look with super-sharp Fuji XF lens. For the good outdorr/daylight try Provia/Astia, for the indoor light portraits - ClassicChrome
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