yukosteel

Good to know you found a workaround to that noise, because it is absolutely normal for Fuji X-T4.
Camera has powerful electromagnets to put sensor "flying in the air" after you turned it on. When Image Stabilizer is disabled, sensor just remains "flying" in static position. When Image Stabilizer is enabled - electromagnets are reacting and shifting sensor to compensate movements and keep image stable.
There is no way to turn that electromagnets off when X-T4 camera is operating. So you will always have that noise. In some cases magnets are producing additional sounds when stabilizing sensor position - that sounds are also normal, indicating that camera is operating properly.
Personally, I prefer completely silent cameras, and it was the main reason for me to sell X-T4. But if you need Image Stabilizer - Fuji X-T4 is excellent tool.

Thank you for the great review!!!

Mini review article of Pergear 12mm F2 lens on Fujifilm X-E2s camera.
 

 
 

I have the 27mm lens, and I too started to see these 'Turn off and on ..." type of problems. This was after I fitted a 37 to 58 mm filter thread converter plus a 58mm uv filter. The reason for me doing this was no standardise the filter threads on all my lenses. It seems to me from other's contributions that the tiny motor struggles when there is too much excess weight it has to move, and malfunctions. I took the filter/converter off, and it was happy again.

Recently started to explore Pergear 35mm F1.2 lens on Fuji X. It's quite an interesting glass, and I'm going to discover more details about the internals soon by disassembling it.
For now here's the initial review article of Pergear 35mm F1.2 on Fuji X-E2s camera. I'll keep updating it with more pictures and discoveries.
 

Just switch EVF mode by looking through it and press "DISP BACK" button for constant histogram
ALso make sure to turn on SCREEN SET-UP > DISP.CUSTOM SETTING > HISTOGRAM

Yes it's normal, by design many Fuji lens have floating optics inside controlled by electromagnets, nothing to worry about.

Hey just did the same with this lens that had a strand of something in the back element. Thanks for the inspiration. 
 

X-photographer John Armstrong made comparison between X-T2, X-T3 and X-T4. You may check it here - (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBYCmA0eFhU)
 

If you share some pictures, it may be easier to see what is wrong with lens.
I'd also recommend to check if you have latest firmware updated on: camera, lens, TC.

Unboxing 7artisans 35mm F1.2 lens - Part II
 
My sample weights only 5 1/2 Oz (157g). It was a surprise to find the Torx head screws in the mount - quite unusual for budget lens. Mount also has "FX-Mount" sign for your convenience. I'd mention that screw holes and "red dot" marker have quite sharp and rough edges, which I'd like to make smooth later like they should be.
 
IMPORTANT NOTE: you may see that Torx screws heads are sitting quite deep - it is causing an issue when unmounting lens from the camera. Typically I just briefly press lens-lock button on Fuji camera and release it during rotating the lens clockwise. It soesn't work with 7artisans s5mm F1.2 - you have to keep lens-lock button pressed thill the end, otherwise lock pin will be catched by the closest Torx screw location.
 

 
Engraving of 7artisans 35mm F1.2 is not very deep, but it has all white color which is good for low light shooting conditions.
You can see that aperture ring is very close to the mount, which is convenient for shooting but it is not handy when mounting lens on camera.
To prevent focus + aperture ring rotation, simply hold whole body while mounting/unmounting lens.
My sample doesn't sit tight enough on Fuji X-E2s, but it's firm enough to feel comfortable and is not moving during the focus or aperture ring rotation.
 
I've noticed three Allen screws on the focus ring, and assuming they may be used to fine tune infinity focus point of the lens. However my sample is perfectly focusing on infinity with X-E2s, so I'd not worry about that, looks like "Inspection: Qualified" on the warranty card means that thing got tested.
 

OK Guys...the results are absolutely amazing! After trying few macro lens options, I set my preference for a Micro-Nikkor 55mm 2,8 + tube. @Milandro, the curvature of the negative wasn't in the equation as my negative is maintained in place by an enlarger negative carrier. I can now confirm that my negatives reproduction are absolutely perfect. I compared them with some scans I get from a professional lab using a Nikon 5000ED scanner and mines are, way out, better with more tonalities and approximately the same pixel count when using the XPro2.
 
  Here are the useful information if someone goes the same way:
Only real macro lenses give good to outstanding results  Micro-Nikkor 55/2,8 is an extraordinary lens I didn't test Fuji Macro because of high price and no need of autofocus but I believe it must be excellent  The negative must be flat so the use of an enlarger negative carrier is mandatory (or similar negative holder) The use of a remote trigger is mandatory (I use a cheap remote with cable from Amazon) My light source is an old X-Ray light (white balance isn't a problem with B&W negatives) The «scan» time is calculated in seconds, not in minutes. Only depend of the time it takes me to change negative in the carrier! WooHoo! Cost = zero/scan if I consider that I already have the XPro2 and a friend borrowed me his old 55mm with have a stiff focus ring so was never used. I made myself the reproduction rig with stuff I already had. Seriously I was hoping the results will be good but they are stunning. When taking time to test and refine all the variables, it works great. Now the only things I still must do is «scanning» 20 years of B&W photography...

It was tested by the guy behind Fuji vs Fuji blog, on a set of lenses, with examples: https://www.fujivsfuji.com/mcex-11-vs-mcex-16/
 
But I doubt the 56mm can be a very good macro lens. That's really not its purpose, and macro extension rings are sadly limited by the laws of physics. My advice would be to use a dedicated macro lens. For scanning slides, perhaps a 1:2 would be enough? In that case, buy the 60mm from Fuji. It's small, sharp, awesome and is now easy to be found used, thanks to the newer 80mm.
 
Otherwise, if you need 1:1, there are different options:
- Native lenses: Fuji 80/2.8 (but far too expansive if you just want to scan slides), Samyang 100/2.8 (cheaper), Zeiss Touit 50/2.8, Meike 85mm (I think it's new too)
- Adapted lenses from other brands. You can mount barely anything from Nikon, Canon, Tamron, Sigma... The old (and the new) 90mm lenses from Tamron are great 1:1 macro lenses (the oldest models are only 1:2 though), and can be found used in lots of different mounts.
- The Raynox adapters. You don't get the quality of a dedicated macro lens, but you get close and it's not too expansive.
 
Good luck!
 
Konzy

Hello Omar. The name plate has adhesive tape under it. I'd recommend to use more slim tool like on this picture.
 

(Re: my post from 17.9.18 above) I did eventually get mine repaired. It was a focus motor failure. Very quick service from Fuji UK - it set me back £80. No problems since.

It may be gear problem due to use time. There are few blocking stoppers keeping focusing range and they may crack over time allowing lens to overfocus causing error.
Another problem - could be electronics, common recommendation is to try to clean the lens contacts and see if it helps.
Can you write more about your lens symptoms? I'll try to help discover what is wrong with it.
If the lens is not repairable, then it can be reused to create manual focus mod of XF 27mm with constant F2.8.
At your place I'd try to find the way to repair the lens, and if that is not possible would sell it for parts and purchase new one on eBay - there are plenty of them for about $200

Leica Vario-Elmarit R 28-90mm  f2.8-f4.5    -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.

Leica R 100mm f2.8 APO-Macro Elmarit  -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.
Image #1 @ f2.8
Image #2 @ f5.6
 
More to follow with other R lenses.....

Leica R 280mm f4 APO-Telyt @ f4   -Jpegs straight out of camera with no post processing.
 
As mentioned above, a cold afternoon with very flat grey light and the only victims I could find to photograph were my cats and my 3 friends from East Africa.
 
 
 
 

After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear.
The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort.
Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2.
Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.

 

 

Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
 

 

Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
 

 

Article on Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro with Fuji X-T30 camera.
Image samples on 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens Flickr group.
Article on disassembly, focus calibration of 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens
 

 

 

Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II
Aperture ring is step-less, and it has same texture as focus ring and similar rotation effort. It's just named 35mm, but actually it is wider 33mm lens. Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy. Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid. I'd recommend to check other pictures taken with this lens. Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure. When aperture is wide open and you shake the lens - it is producing moving noise inside - that are aperture blades, and it is normal.

Modern Fujinon lens have electronical parts that may fail due to water damage or other reasons. In most cases it worths pay for repair, but sometimes repair costs are too high and its cheaper to just buy another sample. This Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 sample was electronically broken, so I've found relatively simple way to convert it into fully manual focus lens.
More details in related article: Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - true manual focus mod