yukosteel

Thanks for sharing on 60mm, good to know. I've noticed that on XF 35mm 1.4, and assume it's "hunting" more due to whole picture changes during focus and whole lens group move. Looks like FW 4.20/4.30 has a bit increased AF-C sensitivity there,

Installed FW 4.30 on X-T1, works great, no issues so far : ) Everything looks like it was with FW 4.20

Thanks for sharing Patrick, as usual I got this news from FR first : )

My current comfortable setup is : 12mm 2, 35mm 1.4, 40mm 1.4.

Right, on T1 it's just 2 steps move from A to T shutter mode. Probably Fuji uses same mechanical parts in X-T10 like in X-E1, if I remember right the shutter dial there is also rotating 300 degrees only. I like dials lock mechanism very much, it took only few weeks for me to get used, so now I even don't think about lock when rotating - fingers do it automatically (however it's not as fast as without lock). On X-E1 I often accidentally turned shutter dial form A to 4000 without noticing that, and making few shots on much higher Auto-ISO value than required.

I used this simpler version during few weeks. My sample was bad - grease is coming out to the focus ring. Also focus movement has noticeable lag. My favorite Contax G adapter was the one that has small rotating dial for focusing (about 1/2" diameter) on the side of adapter.

On X-T1 I use mostly: AF-S (AF+M), single point, Release priority, Instant AF-S, AutoISO max6400 1/60. Custom: NR -2, STone -1. Mostly Provia, Astia, CC, B&W.

Snowflake Lane, Bellevue, WA, Dec 2015

My favorite improvements are also: New behavior of AF-L as "back-focus" button in AF-S mode, plus fine tune focus manually after autofocus is locked "FOCUS ASSIST" zooms in AF-S mode as well

That's right. FW 4.20 introduced ability to turn off following items on Custom Screen type: FOCUS FRAME CONTINUOUS MODE SHOOTING MODE DUAL IS MODE INFORMATION BACKGROUND MOVIE MODE FOCUS MODE BLUR WARNING SHUTTER TYPE Looks like they will be available again in next X-T1 FW release expected in Feb. Personally I didn't downgrade to FW 4.21 because I like that blur warning remain disabled : )

Thanks for the recommendation on Loctite Thread locker, it will definitely help to make it more secure. Sorry for off-top , do you also know good grease solution for helicoid adapter thread ? I've purchased Japanese helicoid grease #10 and #40 but it's too smooth and loose. I'm looking for some grease that adds more tight move to helicoid.

I think the function DISPLAY CUSTOM SETTING > BLUR WARNING > OFF only appeared in FW 4.20 , and may be not available in downgraded version of FW 4.21 .

Some time ago I've decided to made custom metal hooks. They can be released in a second by rotating 180 degrees with putting extra force in the middle. These hooks are made of very strong spring steel, used for bulldog paper clips. So they are very durable, and didn't fail for more then year of use. That time I often switched finger/wrist/neck strap, and it was the most compact solution I could find. Later I've realized the slim leather strap is most often used. So decided to attach it firm without extra parts in the following way.

I had similar problem - some dust particles stick to eyefinder rubber piece. I'm using XT1 without rubber cup for few months and issue does not appear.

Telling about XC 16-50mm - it's excellent lens, don't worry. Fuji just has a bit different logic of operations. The optical+digital quality result from your XC 16-50mm should be superior to Sony 18-55 lens results, at least in JPEG. You can judge yourself by looking at Photozone.de charts there: XC 16-55mm Sony 18-55mm By pointing mouse over "Distortion" chart, you'll notice that 16-50 has dramatic level of optical distortion, but Fuji camera corrects that very well, so as a result border/corner sharpness and details will look much better on Fuji comparing to Sony. Fuji sells XC 16-50mm cheaper than XF 18-55 because they saved a bit on on metal and on aperture ring, however the glass inside is of excellent quality.

One possible alternative is to set ISO to Auto mode. It will automatically tweak ISO value in Manual mode to required value that fits measured exposure and your Exposure Compensation value set. On half-press it will show you real ISO value that is going to be used for the shot. If required ISO value exceeds possible range - you'll see that on Exposure Scale - indicator will be lower\higher than desired value.

It can be a lens noise. Try the same without lens attached.

I shoot 100% using AF-L for autofocusing on X-T1, and never use half-shutter for focusing. It's a habit adopted from slower focusing X-E1. I tried to use AE-L for back-button focusing for some time, but it's not so convenient. Also I've recently noticed that autofocus works faster if AF-L is set to lock Focus Only. If it's set to Lock AF/AE then camera first locks Exposure, then proceed with autofocus - weird : \.

Thanks for sharing. I'm planning to buy it this year once any discount appears, would be nice to see some samples from your X-E2. I very like XF 35 1.4, it's glued to my camera. But sometimes I wish to have a bit wider option. 23mm SLR Magic 1.7 a bit too low contrast as of my taste and also catches a lot of flare light, so I hope Samyang 21mm 1.4 will solve that.

I had 14mm as well and very liked it for indoor and landscapes. Later I decided to sell it for photo budget reducing, but then I started to miss wide angle. The optimal replacement happened to be 12mm Samyang, and I like it so much better then 14mm now.

About the X-T1 used. I personally have one, purchased with about 1-2k shots reported background. But it also has official US Fuji warranty, and it's practically transferable if you also have original purchase receipt from Fuji Dealer. I'd point attention at following points that tells about camera use: - amount of dust / noisy pixels on sensor - shape of rubber covers - shape of left accessory door - shape of all visible screws - screen surface and OVF surface - check how the LCD ribbon cable looks behind the screen - shape of Hotshoe - buttons and dials feedback And few hints: - don't worry about wobbling sound inside camera - it's normal - OVF cover can be detached and easily cleaned to the new shape under tap water - do few full charge\discharge cycles for batteries before judge on their capacity

I think you can safely buy XF 18mm new for less than $300 from Korea on eBay. I've purchased four new XF 27mm 2.8 lens without any issue. If you don't mind manual focusing and need wider angle, Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f2 is a wonderful lens withing $300 budget as well. I have one - it's of fantastic quality.

I was very surprised to see Pixel Mapping and film Grain simulation in X-Pro2 specs on fujirumors . I'm wonderes if that obviously firmware related things will ever appear in X-T1 / X-T10 firmware. Probably it'll take some time after X-Pro2 appear on market. But I hope that improvements will migrate. It will be much easier to just remap pixels in camera like Olympus/Panasonic do, instead of shipping camera to Fuji Service. What do you think, what's the chance?

I like out of camera sharpness = 0 for XF 56mm 1.2 (non-APD version). I was aware about sharpness level before purchasing the lens. Ultra-fast apertures usually sacrifice some sharpness due to so wide light field. XF 56mm is not the exception, it's sharpness is bit reduced wide open but is still great and delivers a lot of details. You can take a look at the test sharpness chart on photozone.de , it's quite representative.

I'd personally recommend to buy XF23mm for it's price. X100s is totlaly different camera to X-T10. Different controls position, hand grip, buttons customization, menu customization. When I had X-E1 it was not dramatic difference with X100s, but still significant for me enough to decide return to single camera + few lens option. One more point. With a habit of wearing 2+ lens, X100s made me to buy and try Wide/Tele convertors. Which is increasing budget, but can't compete ergonomically with X-T10 + corresponding lens.