MrPolite

if you are picky about image quality definitely skip the 18-135. It's decent but not razor sharp - I took it to NY on a trip and was unhappy with a lot of photos. It's much lighter and versatile than the 16-55 though. You could always use the lighter but optically excellent 18-55 during the day and switch to a small prime at night time

i see you've already gotten a bag, but just to throw it out there in case it becomes an option for someone else (in case you get tired of deciding on which camera-specific bag to get), i reused a messenger bag i used to like by picking up a Tenba camera insert.
 

 

 
(Sent from another Galaxy)

I have tried several bags including the Think Tank Retrospective 7, Retrospective 5, the Hubba Hubba Hiney and have found my old reliable the Think Tank Change Up to be the best at carrying the most, with the most carry options in a rather compact size.
 
http://www.thinktankphoto.com/categories/shoulder-camera-bags/change-up.aspx
 
 It will hold an X-T1, 50-140mm, 35mm,  56mm, 14mm, 18-55mm, Instax printer, an i40, vertical grip, extra batteries, SD cards, lens cleaning stuff, filters, etc. I find it to be the best carry solution for all the listed items.The Change Up has the most and best carrying options of any other bag; two shoulder straps for double or single use, a waist belt with attachment points for additional Think Tank accessory bags if the need arises, front chest carry, side carry, plenty of pockets inside and outside for small items, a water resistant cover and internal removeable dividers.
 
I sold the Retrospective 7 and use the Change Up for the X-T1 system. I use the Retrospective 5 or Hubba Hubba Hiney for my X100T.
 
The Think Tank Change Up is like no other bag I have ever found. It is just too darn versatile. It doesn't have the "elitism" name or price tag some fancy leather messenger or shoulder bags have, but I really like the ability to carry it so many different ways with all the items.
 
The "double across the back" shoulder strap option takes weight off one shoulder and allows me to use both hands for something else (like changing a lens or loading an SD card or battery, etc.)  without trying to keep a single shoulder strap on my shoulder while doing something. By using the doubled strap option, the bag is in front of me and allows complete access to all my equipment where I can see it, not to mention it also makes getting on and off transportation vehicles easier with the bag in front of me. I'm not hitting other people or objects like it would if the bag were hanging off one shoulder. If I am out for a short time the single shoulder strap option works well. One can also remove both shoulder straps and use the compact carry handle sown onto the top back of the Change Up. I stow the unused shoulder strap(s) in the side pocket(s) and tuck the waist belt into its pocket in the back of the Change Up making for a compact carry handle style bag.
 
The Fuji 50-140mm stands upright off the X-T1 body in one end of the bag while the three other lenses sit on top of one another with a wrap around them and the X-T1 has either the 35, 56, 18-55 or 14 lens mounted on it when sitting in the bag on the X-T1 on end with the lens facing toward the front of the Change Up.
 
I'm not looking for another bag.  (Another "Pro" for the Change Up besides carrying so much in so many ways is that I can't cram any more glass into the bag which forces me to quit buying more glass and saving money .
 
The Change Up will not hold an X-T1 with the 50-140 mounted, but it does so much more than any other bag I have owned. (Which have been far too many )

Urban geese gang

Light&Stripes II
 

Mystic Morning III
Wolfgangsee Austria / 10-24mm
 

Mystic Morning
Wolfgangsee Austria / 10-24mm

Castle Löwenburg, Kassel, February 2015, X-T1, 18-55mm
 

last winter by Roman Gellmann

20151011-DSCF0882.jpg by Ian Pitts, on Flickr
X-Pro 1 with XF10-24mmF4 R OIS at 15mm
ISO 630 f6.4 1/80

Starry Eruption - The Milky Way on Top of Mountain Fuji
 
Starry Eruption by Mahalarp Teeradechyothin, on Flickr

Fairytale

I was on a short trip to Austria this weekend and managed to sqeeze in a little time for shooting:

XT-1 with 10-24.... Was hit by wave taking this photo, soaking wet....

Fuji XE 2 35/F1.4
 
Marina Bay by Night by gerlesion, on Flickr

X-T1 90mmF2
Opatija, Croatia

Here is one of my recent favs. X-T1 + Rokinon 12mm f/2
 

Well, I'd set my personal limits for eBay at $200, so yes, I've bought this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/131607163005
Got it as described w/o retail box. No problems so far.

looks nice 
 
But...
 
It comes in a “ white box” which probably only means that the lens was part of a kit and was split from the body.
 
And...
 
the guarantee is the vendor’s guarantee , which is a bit strange.
 
On the other hand you have 180 days paypal protection...if something goes wrong.

Got my Eyelead sensor cleaner today. Was a bit scared to try it at first, as the packaging gave no indication of whether it was the Sony/Fujifilm one or otherwise. Below are the before and after pics. Took most of the spots off. The most prominent of the remaining spots wouldn't come off at all (hopefully it's not a small scratch).
 
Before:

After:

I've just picked up the 16mm 1.4 a few days ago.
  I've barely had a chance to use it, literally only for a couple of snaps, but can give some observations from my circumstances.   I originally had the 35mm 1.4 and the 18mm 2.0. I sold both of these lenses, as the 35mm was a little too mid-range for my needs, despite being a really nice lens. The 18mm 2.0 was fine, but I wanted something a little wider, sharper and faster overall.   I prefer to operate at both ends of the extremes, so when I replaced those two lenses, I was looking for something between the 16mm and 23mm range for the wide end, and for the long end, the obvious candidate for me would be the 56mm 1.2, should I decide to add to my gear.   I use my X-Pro1 and X-T1 for casual shooting and my everyday carry around stuff, as I have my Nikon D800 and associated gear and lenses for bigger projects. I did contemplate an all in one solution with the 16-55mm 2.8, but in the end, decided that I lacked a fast prime in the 24mm range in my overall kit (as I have the Nikon 24-70mm), so plucked for the 16mm.   Some quick comparisons and musings.  The 18mm 2.0 and 35mm 1.4 are far smaller in size than the 16mm – if size and weight are an issue for you, then this is something to consider. This is one of the reasons why I also opted for the 16mm over the 16-55mm, because it is slightly smaller (but not by much). I haven't found the 16mm to be overly heavy or bulky – nor do I find it a problem in terms of balance on the camera body. You may improve that further with the battery grip though, especially on smaller Fuji bodies than the X-T1. This was originally a concern of mine before I bought it. The combination however no longer fits my Black Rapid SnapR 35 bag – that's annoying. The aperture ring is ever so slightly loose. Not horribly so, but it's a lot easier to move the aperture ring versus the 18mm and the 35mm, which had a nicer "click" to it. I suspect it will be easy to accidentally knock the aperture ring off one of the settings. No big deal, but something to be aware about. The lens hood is plastic – but Fuji's lens hoods and caps have always been a bit flimsy to me, but the cheaper 18mm and 35mm came with metal hoods. Having said that, the plastic hood is well made and doesn't bother me. It's similarish to some of the Nikon ones. You can attach it to the lens reversed for travelling with, which is a plus point. The lens itself is well made and feels good in the hands. It's a premium lens. The mechanism for switching to manual focus is really nicely done. You pull back on the focus ring and it switches from auto focus into manual mode. I really like that, and it's made me use manual focus far more. The lens does seem to suffer from chromatic aberration, but then, that's something the majority of lenses I've used suffer from and can be corrected in post. From what I can tell, it does an excellent job of minimising distortion and is sharp across the frame. It focuses close and at 1.4 it does a good job at isolating subjects. This is what you're spending your money on really. If you feel that you need something faster than 2.8, then pick it up. If you don't, consider one of the alternatives or the zoom for convenience.If you intend to take photos of people and portraits, and you're not used to a lens this wide, then you will need to get a lot closer to them in order to fill the frame. This can be off-putting for people who are not used to having their photo taken and make them feel self conscious. So that's something to be aware about in terms of expectations. The difference between 16mm and 18mm is actually a lot – that 2mm goes a long way. The 16mm is definitely wide wide and feels so. Coming from the 18mm 2.0 and 35mm 1.4 – you go from a 52mm adapter ring to a 67mm one, which I didn't double check at first and meant I couldn't use my Lee Seven filter system until I purchased a new one – easily rectified but obviously at another small spend. Autofocus seemed reasonable to me – but I've not done any extensive checking or testing. But even around the house I was fairly impressed with how well it locked onto things, and as I mentioned earlier and as someone has mentioned since, the manual focus override is excellent and useful. Obviously when you shoot at a shallow depth of field like 1.4, you need to be technically disciplined to ensure you lock on and focus on what you need to. From my early tests, it's not really different to what I expected and will likely require some time to get to know how the lens best behaves in these circumstances. How will it best be used? It's a specialist lens, so landscapes, street photography and environmental portraits or in certain wedding scenarios, it'd very handy. It's good for tight situations and obviously low light, so if you shoot any of those things, then it's worth considering.   In the end, the 18mm was a cheapish sort of lens, but I got results from that which I was happy with. I can tell in my short use that the 16mm's image quality is better overall, so look forward to seeing what I can do with it. They are however all very good lenses these days, so whatever you buy you should be pretty happy with.   Hope that helps – here's one of the very few images I took with it so far...     For some comparative purposes, here are some images I've taken in the past with the 18mm 2.0.
 

 
           

I picked up the 16 in June and have used it a ton from weddings to family stuff. Everything that's been said regarding build and performance are on point.
 
One thing I truly love about it is the clutch manual focus override. During receptions I set the 16 to manual focus and I live around f/2 to around f/4 or 5.6 and zone focus with peak for the dance floor.  Super fast! 
 
I also really love the close focus ability.  Ring shots and details are great with it.
 
A few examples from details, family and weddings:
 

 

 
 
 

 

As pointed out in the other thread, you are only partially right about gel cleaners not being fit for Fuji, because apparently at least SOME brands have a version for “ normal” sensors AND a version for Sony-Fuji mirrorless camera sensors 
 
 
https://photographylife.com/product/sensor-gel-stick-for-sony
 
“........One of the best solutions for keeping your Sony and Fuji digital camera sensors clean! This sensor gel stick is designed specifically for Sony SLT and Alpha mirrorless cameras, but will also work equally well on Fuji mirrorless cameras. ..."
 
 
I am adding my post on the other thread here, although I am against double posting of the same content because someone might miss all of what I have found out by a little research on line

this could help: http://www.fujirumors.com/how-to-clean-the-x-trans-sensor/

They called hot pixels, occurring during long exposures or high iso values. Those pixels are more sensitive by light than the others. I had this problem on my X-T1 within two months after purchasing. Went back to the store and they send the camera to Fuji service where they remapped the sensor and I have no problem up to now! 

DSCF0651 by Kourosh D, on Flickr