Jump to content

PatrickB

Members
  • Posts

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PatrickB

  1. I don't know where you're from but in Europe you have a longer warranty period than 1 year... I had older gear repaired or replaced than that...
  2. The border finally developed after roughly 24 hours... Quite strange but we'll see there is a 2 year warranty so if it's the printer I'll find out before then .
  3. I can't either but I hope it get's fixed in a FW-update if possible... otherwise in the X-T2.
  4. That's correct, X-T1's (and all Fuji's that I know of) only fire of the flash in Single-shot... Best is to back focus and push the shutter a few times in S-mode.
  5. *clickable for 1920x1080* Taken last summer on my way to work, as lifeguard we arrive early on the beach and saw this scene quite often when walking to the beach. Nothing fancy but I like it .
  6. Like a realtime overlay of highlights and black-spots on the OVF? That would be sweet.
  7. We won't know until more-leaks appear online (like Flickr photo's with the X-Pro2 in EXIF), in-the-wild sightings (this sounds like Pokémon at the moment, trying to find a rare shiny version!!), etc. haha.
  8. Hey guys, I just received my SP-1 today together with a 2x10 pack of film. They both had a mist on the right side of the photographs, I tested the first ten on my phone and camera, called the shop and they said to test the second pack too. After that I called them again and said the 11th and 12th shot had the same misty strip on the right side, they think it's the film and not the printer. Did you have anything like that?
  9. I'd get the regular 56mm, which is around €300,00 cheaper at the moment, and spend the difference in a 90mm f2. This would give more compression, smoother bokeh and transitions than a 56mm. Gamblor, the ring is awkward indeed, I usually grab the end of the lens or the lens hood.
  10. Waiting for that rumor/news too. Meanwhile the 35mm f1.4R is getting more and more attractive as "small" walk-around travel lens. Or I'll stick with the 23mm and ditch the (horrendously) long hood.
  11. So nobody has photos with an "epic" flare in them with the 35mm??
  12. I don't usually bring up an old topic but in this case I'd like to ask you: Can you post photos taken with the 35mm f1.4 that show an "epic flare" ? I heard the 35mm flares a bit easier than the newer siblings and I'd love to see some examples !
  13. You hear more about problems than about succes stories. In other words: Look at the local news... it's filled with "disasters, crime, traffic jams, etc." but hardly with positive news. Kudos to the TS for his post! Wish there was more information about the 100-400 though, but we have to be patient I guess...
  14. I have one, I believe an Eyelead, and it worked great on my D610's I had. I haven't had to use it on my X-T1's so far. They don't attract dust as fast as the D610's did.
  15. Looks like dirty glass in combination with Lens/sensor flare that makes it this bad...
  16. dSLRs run on 7.2 Volt instead of the 3.6 Volt that the Fuji runs on. That said the 7.2 Volt batteries have two cells with a total of around 1500mAh. The Fuji has around 1200mAh. So roughly half the power of the dSLRs. I used to get around 600-800 shots from my D610 on a Weddingday (usually switching around 450-500 shots for safety). Now I change every 225-250 shots for safety. So all in all it's not a "bad" trade off. Smaller size equals less shots. I carry 2 cameras and have around 5-6 spares for a day. (I use my 23mm camera a whole lot more so the 56mm camera only needs 2 shots of juice, the 23mm around 3-4).
  17. I'm getring into astrophotography aswell. Google something called "DeepSkyTracker" and this software will let you stack your photos and allign the "stars" (lights) making up for earth's rotation. Again I'm getting into it aswell.. For tutorials on stacking search google like I did . Good luck and share your good finds too please .
  18. True... Square/rectangular is cheaper and easier to create in the digital world... We can always dream though .
  19. I have them too on my XT1's. Worth their price (€25,00 ish).
  20. Well we might as well go all out and ask for a circular sensor... No more worrying about leveling out the camera and every possible crop you can think of ( 1:1, 3:2, 4:3, 5:4) without sacrificing too much of the resolution.
  21. Do you have a couple of examples on which you zone-focusses by any chance?
  22. Is there anyone using it as an "Party Lens"? I'm currently torn between this and the 8mm f2.8, I used to shoot my Parties on FullFrame with either my 24 or 35mm. I would love some more content on my photos and could have one X-T1 with either the 8 or 12mm and my other X-T1 with a 23 or 35mm (once I get the latter). With 12mm and f5 you get the following: Subject distance 125 cm Depth of field Near limit 68.6 cm Far limit 707.1 cm Total 638.5 cm In front of subject 56.4 cm (9%) Behind subject 582.1 cm (91%) This seems like a good Party-Lens with zone-focussing... No "slow" AF to rely on and just click on anything from roughly 2'2" will be in focus (an arm lengths away) al the way up to roughly 20ft.
  23. Haven't used the original one, I ordered the XTL with my X-T1 to match my dSLR experience... It surpassed that and I'm a happy camper, haha! It blocks stray light better than my eye-cup on a D610 or D300s. It will be a no-brainer to order another one with my second X-T1 next to make the switch complete .
  24. Like Romi, I recommend that you look into the Moneymaker system (or similar). They aren't only comfortable but come with style too. They cost a bit yes but if you are handy and want something personal you could always make something for yourself.
  25. Or an 30mm f2.8 Tilt-Shift which would be equal to the Canon/Nikon in terms of FoV. A good allrounder. The cheapest way to have an TS now would be the TS adapter and a couple of old M42/FD/F-mount lenses. I'd love to see the 100-400mm by Fuji anytime soon. And maybe a 300mm f4 prime.
×
×
  • Create New...