Jackhandy

I am probably too thick to see the relevance of your comment.

It's an interesting idea. The model isn't too erratic so AF-S is still good. I just have to change the AF point when the model changes, or when I want to try a different composition. 
 
Also, depending on the distance, body position, and my depth of field, the AF-C  settings won't work since it would focus on the body and not the head. But it does give me some motivation to try it out. I hope I don't get too many out of focus shots. 

I have found the AFL buttons location something that takes a bit of getting use to.  But once you get use to it, I don't think the location is a big deal.
 
But the button on XT1/XT2 is too small.  I have a dirt cheap fix that works great.  At my local craft store (Michael's) I purchased for a couple of bucks a small pack of stick-on buttons.  They come in different sizes.  They look like a ball bearing that has been cut in half.  They are black.  They have 2-sided sticky tape on them.  In this small $2 pack were the size that is the same size as the AFL button.  I stuck one on the body and one on the vertical battery grip.  This small convex button (shaped like 1/2 a ball bearing) works perfect in that it is easy to find the button when my eye is to the view finder and makes the button slightly larger, thus easier to press.
 
I've had this mod on my camera body and vertical grip for a couple months now with success.

ISO 100 is an expanded ISO. It's just like taking an image at ISO 200 (over exposed by 1EV), then adjusting the exposure by -1EV in your RAW processing software (only the camera does it for you)---meaning you'll lower the noise floor, but you'll also probably have some blown out/unrecoverable highlights. Does that answer the question?