MirrorMirror

If you explicitly set DR100 then RAW and JPG will match.
 
If you explicitly set DR200 or DR400 then the RAWs will be -1 or -2 underexposed, that's the way the Fuji DR expansion works, BUT Lightroom will auto compensate and match the exposure to the JPG.
 
If you set DR to AUTO then the camera can use DR100 or DR200. If it decides to use DR200 then the RAW will be underexposed by -1 BUT this time LR can't read this and the RAW will remain -1 underexposed.
 
Explicitly set DR200 or use Auto and manually adjust.

You could measure it. The sensor position is indicated on the top plate by a line (with a circle through it).

Tend not to use the buttons in day to day use. Set everything up when I get the camera, then from then on use it as a camera.
 
Set speed on top plate, set aperture on lens, press shutter. Use EC dial.
The buttons on the back are mostly superfluous.

32mm vs 35mm, 1.8 vs 2.0
You wouldn't notice the difference in reality. I would buy the Fuji and it's the cheapest.

You've waited over two months to troubleshoot with another lens. You don't know after two months if it's the lens or body. You've waited over two months before taking it back to the retailer. The retailer didn't know if it was the body or lens; did they not volunteer to find out for you? Exercise your consumer rights. You are relying on strangers on a forum to advise if you have a faulty set up or not. Strikes me as strange.
 
Did you buy the camera as a kit or body only? Take it back and insist on a replacement, you have a faulty product. Make a decision for goodness sake.

Fair enough. I'm similar, just an enthusiast. I would take it back, I couldn't afford to spend all that money for anything less than good working order.
 
I still think it's a strange series of posts! You have the time to post, make a video, go to retailer with the video, but haven't the time to swap a lens to troubleshoot lens or body. Have a good Christmas.
 
P.S. there's still no actual dark side of the moon

The X100T can be charged directly from a USB lead, so no need to buy an additional charger.
 
So OP, yes the power pack can charge the camera, that's what a portable power pack is for.

Your answer was correct. However if it hadn't been correct an issue with a freshly bought camera should never be the subject of a repair. Newly bought items should be replaced or refunded by the retailer, not repaired.

I wouldn't get the 23, I'd buy a X100T for that. Get the f1.4 35mm and have done.

If you explicitly set DR100 then RAW and JPG will match.
 
If you explicitly set DR200 or DR400 then the RAWs will be -1 or -2 underexposed, that's the way the Fuji DR expansion works, BUT Lightroom will auto compensate and match the exposure to the JPG.
 
If you set DR to AUTO then the camera can use DR100 or DR200. If it decides to use DR200 then the RAW will be underexposed by -1 BUT this time LR can't read this and the RAW will remain -1 underexposed.
 
Explicitly set DR200 or use Auto and manually adjust.

Digital stills cameras generally have a 29m 59s limit imposed on their video recording capability. This isn't a technical limit but a tax limit. If the camera were allowed to take videos longer than 30m then the camera would be classed as a video camera and would be liable for a higher rate of tax on its retail price. Most manufacturers avoid the tax by limiting the recording to just under the 30m threshold.
 
See page 324 of the manual, it tells you there that you can't record longer than 30m. Although it doesn't take the trouble to explain why.

Just buy the damn thing. You know you want it.

32mm vs 35mm, 1.8 vs 2.0
You wouldn't notice the difference in reality. I would buy the Fuji and it's the cheapest.

I am happy not to be the only one who would advise not to upgrade, I’ve been given a lot of flack for having done thins in the past, from the upgrading party.
 
I’ve stayed with my X-T1, sold the X-E2, invested in interesting lenses. I have put money on the side for the day when Fuji will come up with such improvements capable to sway me over to their future new model.
For the time being I am happy where I am.
 
There is no picture that I could or would want to take with any other camera or the that I could take with the X-T2 and can’t take with the X-T1.  Personally I think that photographers take pictures and not their cameras.
And that: if you are a good photographer you will take good pictures with any camera and that if you are a mediocre photographer buying a new camera will do absolutely nothing to improve your pictures.
 
I have seen it happening with some folks who did buy. They shot mediocre pictures before and they still do this now.
 
Of course this attitude has proven very unpopular on this board, especially among those whom bought the new cameras. It is understandable that people are proud of their new cameras but the motivations for doing so are paper thin.
 
Some quote the increased size for printing purposes or increased cropping. Some want to shoot film in 4K or need shooting very fast action sports.
 
I rarely print my pictures, certainly very rarely at the top of the printing capabilities of my sensor, but I could print them up to 2 x 3 meter with good professional results. So, I don’t see a real advantage in 24Mp over 16Mp. The minute improvements of the new sensor are, to me, only shown at microscopic level and by comparison. You can’t look at a picture taken with a X-t1 ( and that was marveling you a few months ago) and say “ What a piece of ... unsatisfactory photography , if only would have been shot with a X-T2! Then it would be a great picture!)
 
I don’t shoot any sport or film nor do I intend to do these things with the necessary( for this) aid of a bulky grip. I try not to crop much or at all and try to compose, in camera, as much as possible.
 
So, unless your life would be a misery without the new cameras, ( was it when there was no X-T2?) why would you want to buy a camera that does things that you don’t do or need? 
 
My reasons to buy into the Fuji System ( I’ve used 4 cameras until now) are still valid as they were before. I am shooting pretty much the same things now as I did when I bought my first X-E1. I have never found anything that I couldn’t do back then and certainly nothing that will improve, as compared to what I could do with my first Fuji, with the latest cameras.
 
My main reason to buy my X-T1 was that I was given a great deal on it ( because the shop had failed to fix, a couple of times, my X-E1 and gave me a great discount) and because the EVF was a vast improvement over the X-E1’s!
 
Of course things would be different if I had no camera at all.
 
If I were to buy a camera ex-novo then I would certainly consider the new models but I have a camera.
 
The best way to save money is not spending it for things that you don’t need in that way you have more money for things that you want.
 
I wish you a lot of wisdom.

Go into the Menu and assign the red button to Movie. You can't assign that button by pressing and holding. The previous owner has assigned it to AF Mode.
 
I have this particular button assigned to Preview Manual Exposure as I don't use my camera to take movies, I leave that to my phone.

I would do a factory reset of the camera, if I were you. That gives you a clear starting point.

I wouldn't get the 23, I'd buy a X100T for that. Get the f1.4 35mm and have done.

It was true of my late 1970's film cameras that's for sure.

Hey!  You guys talking about me.  

You could measure it. The sensor position is indicated on the top plate by a line (with a circle through it).

No problems. From your enquiries it looks like the tool uses an Internet resource, same exiftool as above link, and that's down. Perhaps it will come back up.
 
I've not used the tool myself but have used the standalone (not a web resource) LR plugin from the same site. It's been there for quite a few years so I expect it's a short term site down. Perhaps he's not paid his hosting fees!!

If you're after Fuji and in the UK I would recommend refurbished from the official Fuji shop. They have full 12 month warranty and are literally indistinguishable from new.
 
Here's a link:
http://shop.fujifilm.co.uk/lenses/refurbished-lenses?limit=30
 
There's a lot out of stock at the moment but it's worth checking back. I've bought three lenses from them and saved a lot on a new price.

Tend not to use the buttons in day to day use. Set everything up when I get the camera, then from then on use it as a camera.
 
Set speed on top plate, set aperture on lens, press shutter. Use EC dial.
The buttons on the back are mostly superfluous.

LR only shows a small subset of the available EXIF data. If you want to see all, including the film sim, then use EXIFTOOL.
 
If you want to see all data in LR then use the plugin, available here
 
http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/metadata-viewer
 
The plug in uses the EXIFTOOL to view in within the LR interface.
 
Second question - you can use the Fuji sims within LR on the RAW versions of the file. This is without plugin, it's within the LR Develop module. Only available to RAW files, not JPGs, which already have the sim "baked" in. With the RAW files LR allows you to change the sim in post processing.
 
Personally I've used the plugin I mentioned, and it works. However I just don't care anymore, I just take pics in provia and have done with it. There's really not much difference in any of them and provia works for me.

Sorry mate. I'm sure your intentions are honourable but personally I wouldn't dream of downloading and installing software from someone's forum post. It's just too dodgy in my opinion. Each to their own though, I'm sure you'll get some good feedback from others.