RM_Photog

Agreed, looks like that landing is going to hurt. Love the third shot. I own the 55-200 and I'm still amazed at how sharp it can be. 

I prefer the godox system. For Fuji, it's all manual flash like the yongnuo, but they have a much more comprehensive flash system that all works together. Godox also recently announced they will be supporting Fuji TTL in the very near future. My favorite part about the Godox system are the Li-Ion batteries! 

I saw a Pander in a zoo, once.

Ask 10 different people what Fujifilm's priority should be and get 10 different answers.
 
 it's kind of comical ....

Lightroom has film simulations, yes, but it doesn't apply the ones you used automatically. You have to remember which one you used and apply it yourself. This plugin takes the guessing out of it. When you run the plugin it reads the metadata and applies the film simulation you used when the photo was taken. For some people that may not matter, but for those who switch film simulations this is a huge help. In my opinion, it's something Adobe should have integrated a long time ago like they do with Canon and Nikon.
 
In addition, the developer is working on adding the ability to have the plugin read and apply the star ratings. He mentioned on his website that his developer version has that feature so it's only a matter of time before he adds it to the version available for download. 

I think you can have the focus point stay the same size, under the same menu option that turns on AF point moves with orientation there are two options one is AF point only, the other is ALL AF setting, if you choose all AF settings then it remembers the last AF size you used in that orientation. For example if you were in landscape in Single Point AF with a very small Focus area and then moved to Portrait switched to Zone focus 5x5, when you went back to landscape it woudl switch back to Single point small, and then when you went back to portrait it would be back in zone.
 
I think if you switch to AF point only or whatever the setting is called that is not ALL, then your point will move, but it won't reflect any size or type changes you have made. Hope that helps/works for you. I am still learning the new features myself.

Sage advice RM!

How is anybody else's choice of camera affecting your ability to enjoy your x series? If anything, having more people buying the X system is a good thing for you because it brings your prices down. A niche product is going to be more expensive and the smaller the niche, the higher the price. The more x lenses that are developed the better, in my opinion! 
 
 
I shoot professionally but I have no desire to switch to the GFX system. I want good wide aperture (1.0, 1.2, 1.4) lenses for my X series cameras because they're smaller and lighter than the full-frame Canon system I left behind. I don't want to switch over to an even bigger setup now (GFX) because it's the hot new trend. I want high quality lenses for the X series I fell in love with. I know there are other photographers like me out there. If all of us leave Fuji in a few years because they neglect the X series lens and camera lineup, how long do you think the X series will stay successful? Enthusiasts alone aren't going to invest enough money to keep an entire camera system afloat. 

Push the joystick in and hold it. That should bring up a menu to turn it on or off. 

I have the 90mm and 2 of the 11mm and 1 of the 16mm extension tubes. The 90mm works really well with them. The only issue with using extension tubes over macro lenses is that you lose focus range. If you're staying at a set distance this won't matter, but if youre walking through nature taking photos at various distances, it can get a little tiring removing and/or adding the tubes. I also hear the 55-200mm works really well with the extension tubes, but I have not tried it yet.

Ok bud, your thread. I got it. I've deleted my posts and moved on. I have way more pressing matters in my life than arguing with a grumpy old man on the internet about what he allows on his threads and what he doesn't.

I am extremely excited about the telephoto prime and I don't even know the details! I'd put my money down on it now if I knew there was no chance they would take it off the roadmap. 

How is anybody else's choice of camera affecting your ability to enjoy your x series? If anything, having more people buying the X system is a good thing for you because it brings your prices down. A niche product is going to be more expensive and the smaller the niche, the higher the price. The more x lenses that are developed the better, in my opinion! 
 
 
I shoot professionally but I have no desire to switch to the GFX system. I want good wide aperture (1.0, 1.2, 1.4) lenses for my X series cameras because they're smaller and lighter than the full-frame Canon system I left behind. I don't want to switch over to an even bigger setup now (GFX) because it's the hot new trend. I want high quality lenses for the X series I fell in love with. I know there are other photographers like me out there. If all of us leave Fuji in a few years because they neglect the X series lens and camera lineup, how long do you think the X series will stay successful? Enthusiasts alone aren't going to invest enough money to keep an entire camera system afloat. 

How is anybody else's choice of camera affecting your ability to enjoy your x series? If anything, having more people buying the X system is a good thing for you because it brings your prices down. A niche product is going to be more expensive and the smaller the niche, the higher the price. The more x lenses that are developed the better, in my opinion! 
 
 
I shoot professionally but I have no desire to switch to the GFX system. I want good wide aperture (1.0, 1.2, 1.4) lenses for my X series cameras because they're smaller and lighter than the full-frame Canon system I left behind. I don't want to switch over to an even bigger setup now (GFX) because it's the hot new trend. I want high quality lenses for the X series I fell in love with. I know there are other photographers like me out there. If all of us leave Fuji in a few years because they neglect the X series lens and camera lineup, how long do you think the X series will stay successful? Enthusiasts alone aren't going to invest enough money to keep an entire camera system afloat. 

Agreed, except I don't think they really need to speed it up, as much as they need to remove that delay when moving straight across the frame. The delay makes it feel painfully slow. It needs to have the option to make it full speed continuous movement in any direction, for people like us. 
 
Yes this is sort of a workaround, but I got used to it very quickly after purchasing the camera and now I don't think about it. It took me one day to be exact, at a corporate event, before I was used to it.The fact that this way is faster, made it easier for me to adjust to it. I've used it at probably 8 or 10 weddings so it's sort of ingrained in the way I compose by this point. 
 
 
I never really used 325 focus points so I can't comment on that. 91 was a lot for me to be honest, but I'm used to it now.
I actually preferred shooting with 9 focus points or less with Canon, but that was a different beast altogether.

I love the XT2 joystick!
 
I'm surprised to see a thread like this. I use the joystick for every shoot and I wish my XT1 had one also. When I switch back to my XT1 with the directional pads in a setting where I need to switch focal points quickly, it makes me want to sell the camera to buy a second XT2. The best part about the Fuji joystick is it's continually adjustable, unlike Canon where you have to keep clicking it to move it around. The Fuji joystick will keep moving around the viewfinder as long as your thumb is controlling it, I love that! 
 
 
The only feature I really wish Fuji would add is where the focal point updates when you switch the orientation of the camera.

Saying the joystick is kind of worthless is a strong statement. In my opinion you just haven't learned to use it yet. I'm saying that with complete respect, because I don't know who you are or how often you use the camera. I'm not trying to start an internet argument or piss anyone off. 
 
The first time I picked up the XT2 I was a little disappointed in the jostick also, but I got used to it very quickly! It does not take 3 seconds to go from one side of the frame to the other. If it does, you're not using it to it's full potential. I take photographs of people also, every single day. In fact, I've taken 32,500 photos with the XT2 since it was released 3 months ago. 
 
 
For the people that say it's worthless, I want to know how you're using it.
 
Are you clicking from one focus point to the next, one point at a time? 
 
Are you going from one side to the other in a straight line?
 
When you move in a straight line, there is a delay between the first and second point, before it speeds up. Not sure why Fuji decided to put a delay there. I guess because the camera isn't sure if you're ready to keep moving continuously. 
 
To speed things up, try moving in a more indirect manner. Say you want to move from the left side of the frame to the right, Move right then up, for example, and the initial delay goes away. Moving it around this way, constantly varying direction, lets you change the focus point continuously around the frame at a fast rate. Imagine that it's almost like doing a figure 8 with the joystick to get to the position you want. It sounds like a pain in the ass, but you get used to it very quick. The problem is the joystick doesn't move fast in a straight line because of the delay. By varying your direction, you're bypassing that limitation which makes the joystick very fast. 
 
Maybe Fuji will see this and fix this issue with a firmware update. For now, experiment with the joystick and get used to it's limitations. It moves plenty fast enough for professional work. I shoot weddings, corporate events, portraits, all with moving subjects and have no issue with the speed of the joystick. And yes, 91 focus points is much faster than 325. 

 

I love the XT2 joystick!
 
I'm surprised to see a thread like this. I use the joystick for every shoot and I wish my XT1 had one also. When I switch back to my XT1 with the directional pads in a setting where I need to switch focal points quickly, it makes me want to sell the camera to buy a second XT2. The best part about the Fuji joystick is it's continually adjustable, unlike Canon where you have to keep clicking it to move it around. The Fuji joystick will keep moving around the viewfinder as long as your thumb is controlling it, I love that! 
 
 
The only feature I really wish Fuji would add is where the focal point updates when you switch the orientation of the camera.

The Fuji 35 F2 at $400 isn't at too bad of a price, why not start with that? It'll be wider than your 50mm on the canon, since the 1300d is a crop body also. Or are you looking for cheaper than that? I'm not sure what the price on the new Fuji 50 F2 is going to be yet, but likely a whole lot cheaper than the 56 1.2.
 
 
If you're looking for a manual focus lens just throw the switch on that 50 1.8 and turn the autofocus off. 

Not sure if this counts

All of the lights 2 by Andrew Lee, on Flickr

Thanks for posting the number.
 
I called Fujifilm and spoke to a service tech who seemed pretty knowledgeable and friendly. He said because I can reproduce the issue, it sounds like it has an electrical problem and the camera would have to be sent to Fujifilm to be repaired. He said it's hard to tell without having the camera there, but it could be a loose connection or an electrical board that needs to be replaced. It could also have something to do with the mode selector since it only happens on continuous low. 
 
I have too many jobs booked right now and won't be able to send it back until at least the 15th. The new firmware is hopefully coming out before then so I'll see if that makes a difference first. 

Hold the delete button down for a couple of seconds and click the rear wheel

Hey folks, I think I've uncovered the root of this freezing issue, and I don't think it's the cards or the batteries. First, I'll give you my conclusion and then I'll go through how I arrived at my opinion in case you want to examine by bro science. LOL  My conclusion: the freezing is caused by power-on and wake-up activity being incomplete. That is to say that the only time I can get my X-T2 to freeze in testing is when it is coming out of powersave mode (waking up) or when I have just turned it on.
 
I bought my X-T2 brand new the first week of shipping. I got the kit with the 18-55, three NP-W126 batteries, the vertical grip and a 35f2 lens. It started freezing on me when I was shooting street type stuff, which I typically do without the battery grip, with either my 35f2 or 18f2 lens and usually in continuous (CL) mode and electronic shutter (ES). The card in slot 1 is a Sandisk 32GB Extreme Plus HC1 U3 Class 10. 
 
To remove variables I did all of the following, trying to replicate the freezing problem:
- Captured to Slot 1 and Slot 2, moving the card to keep that consistent.
- Captured to Slot 1 and Slot 2 using a slower card (Kingston 32GB Class 10 U1) to see if that could be an issue. 
- Varied the shutter speeds and aperture and ISO settings.
- Varied the drive modes and shutter type (ES, MS, CH, CL S etc)
- Shot with and without the vertical grip. 
- Shot with different batteries in the camera (when shooting without the grip)
- Shot with a low battery and a full battery and with Boost mode on and off. 
- Shot with different lenses (I know, shouldn't matter, but they do interact with the camera during capture)
- Shot with different power management modes and shot when camera was fully "awake" and then it was waking up or powering up. 
 
Results: This is of course my non-expert, non-scientific opinion but I'm convinced that the only time the X-T2 freezes (at least my sample) is when it has just been powered up (like, in the first 1-3 seconds) or when it is in the midst of coming out of powersave mode--again the first 1-3 seconds approximately. I could not get the X-T2 to freeze or lock up on me when it was fully powered on/woken up for at least 4-5 sec.
 
When I think about this in the context of my shooting, it fits. When I'm on the street I'll often have the camera powered off, or it has gone into powersave mode. I suddenly see "a decisive moment" :-) and all in one swift motion, pull the camera up, flipping the power on or tapping the shutter release as I go, and begin capturing. I realize now that this happens in just 1 to 2 seconds sometimes and I believe this simply does not provide the camera enough time to be fully operational and so it freezes. Whether it's hardware or software I can't say, but the X-T2 needs a few seconds to get going. Once it's going however it captures perfectly in any mode with no issues whatsoever--again, my experience with my copy. 
 
About cards: I've seen some suggestions that not having the recommended card in slot 1 or not having fast enough cards is causing this freezing issue. Based on my testing, I would have to disagree. The only difference I noticed between my two cards is the length of time the light is flashing (and I'm waiting) while the camera is writing to the card after a burst of captures. I'm all for faster cards, don't get me wrong. I just don't think cards are causing the freezing issue. In fact, if I'm not mistaken, all digital cameras buffer to some sort of hardware memory first, and then write to the storage media. If this is true, then the camera is not even interacting with the card during capture. 
 
My advice: If you shoot street, any kind of event, sports or anything requiring quick reaction/response: 1. Leave the camera powered ON, and 2. Set the power management options in your settings to OFF. If battery life is your concern, get the battery grip or get some more batteries. I also set the EVF to eye sensor mode which can help conserve some battery depending on how you hold and carry your X-T2.
 
Hope this helps!
Rennie