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That's pretty clearly camera shake on your X-T2 shots, not noise. Happens to the best of us. My experience with the X-T2 has been that it is very impressive in low light compared to my Canon 6D. My friend shoots using an X-Pro1, and the low light performance on his images seems very similar. X-T2 RAW files can be a little harder to work with than your typical camera, certainly more finnicky than my 6D was, and it is easy to unintentionally introduce noise while sharpening, which I'm guessing is some of what is happening here. I can't speak to whether the X-T2's RAW files are more or less finicky than the X-T1's RAW files are. But even using Lightroom it is a great sensor in all light. edit: One other note-- I believe I remember reading that the X-T2/X-Pro2 exposes brighter per ISO stop than past Fuji X-System cameras. This might lead to more noise for the same settings because you're not really shooting the same exposure. Try setting your exposure knob -1 stop, or if you're shooting fully manual, aim for a stop lower than middle. This could also lead one to shoot at a slower shutter speed to compensate, which might lead to slightly blurry (not noisy) photos.

I think your plea is too late. My understanding is that it is impossible to add IBIS. Fuji made compromises to make the body and lenses the size they are, and this is one of them. This, combined with corner sharpness concerns, has led to a choice that may or may not get you where you want to go. If it helps any, I know IBIS becomes less effective the longer the lens. I totally understand preferring Fuji over Sony. I personally loathe the UI/UX of Sony cameras. It's like shooting photos using a Playstation. That said, if I was shooting professionally and I had to have a long fast prime with OIS, I would go with a company that gave me that option. When it's paying the bills, sometimes you've gotta make hard decisions about what camera can really do the job. I sort of doubt anyone will criticize you! My guess is that long term, Fuji will unveil a prime in this focal length / f stop with OIS, which would be just as good. Until then, You might be on the wrong system... Sorry friend!

This stuck out in the review for me as well, more-so than his opinions on what is and isn't pro gear. I really wish we could get past this kind of toxic crap. Anyone who cares about the future of photography wants it to be an inclusive, all-creatives-are-welcome art form.

This issue has entirely gone away. I need to do more testing, but I believe that it may be the result of heat from charging the battery inside the camera using a micro-USB cable, or from putting the camera near something even a little warm. I'll update here if I figure out what is going on with my disappearing white bars!

Experiencing the same problem. Only just noticed it. It's slightly more dramatic than on your photo, but that might just be the photo. It's only visible on the edges, not in the center, but in some situations it is very visible. As you said it only effects the rear LCD, not the viewfinder or the images. I really don't want to return this thing, it took long enough to find one :/

Sorry, 300 US dollars. 400 US dollars max.

I'm looking for a lightweight tripod for the X-T2. I am currently thinking the Sirui T-025X, the Sirui T2205X, the ZOMEI Z699C, the Manfrotto Befree Carbon, or the MeFoto Roadtrip Travel Tripod. Emphasis is on as lightweight as possible while still being capable of holding an X-T2 with an XF16mm f/1.4 WR. I don't care about how high it goes, but it would be a bonus if it got low enough for macro work (but hardly necessary, I have a huge manfrotto for that). No preference on quickmount standard. The Sirui's interest me because they are super lightweight at least the T-025X you can take out the center column and attach the head directly to the legs, which would make it even lighter when I didn't need height. Would prefer to spend less than 300. 400 max. So Gitzo is out. If anyone has any of these tripods, or has a preference or suggestion, I'd love to hear it! Thanks! Copy Paper

Hi all. I just sold my Canon 6D and all my Canon lenses and bought a Fuji X-T2, XF35mm f/2, and XF16mm F/1.4, and... that's it! I went from like 10 lenses to 2. Well, and I own a handful of vintage lenses I plan to adapt. But for the most part, it's the simple life for me-- I couldn't be more excited. I went to university for photography. In school I primarily did architectural and interior architectural photography using a large format 4x5. After school I worked as a photographer for a year before realizing that being paid to take photographs for a living meant that I was left with no bandwidth to take photos for myself... I now work in a different field, and I still love photography. I bought a used X100 last year and have LOVED it for street photography. One thing led to another, and now I own an X-T2 My first camera was my father's Canon A-1. The Fuji X-T2 reminds me of that camera so so much. If you put the top dial on "T" and swap the wheels so that the back wheel controls shutter, it controls almost identically to one, and it looks really really similar too. I'm even using my old Canon FD 50mm S.M.C. f/1.4 as an amazing portrait lens using an adapter. Hopefully that is enough information... Excited to be in the club Copy Paper .

One thing I've discovered that may make a significant difference... The view mode button has four modes. Eye sensor, which switching back and forth between the rear LCD and the EVF depending on whether it senses your eye in the EVF EVF Only, which has the EVF always running while the camera is on LCD Only, which has the LCD always running while the camera is on EVF Only + Eye sensor, which only turns on the EVF when your eye is detected in the viewfinder. I did not realize the EVF Only + Eye sensor mode existed until I read the manual, but I imagine not running a screen the entire time the camera is on would save an enormous amount of battery life. So consider using the EVF Only+ Eye Sensor mode if you're struggling with battery life if you're not already! Sincerely, Copy Paper