victorreis

I'm not OP, but I shoot fashion as well (http://jwctp.com). The only cameras I use are the X-T1 and the X-T2. It works fine. As long as the photos look good, it doesn't matter what you use as long as you can deliver the photos the clients want.
 
I did use the Phase One XF-100 recently for a shoot, and I loved the files from that, but that's just overkill. I think the X-T2 is plenty good for fashion for most situations. Also, I have printed out 24x36 prints and 16x24. They both looked great. 
 
I mentioned moire in the other thread, but yeah on my e-comm stuff, I see moire a lot. I'm not sure why I don't see them in my editorial stuff, maybe because the shoot isn't as clinical as my product shots. 
 

I've not experienced any moiré problems with the newest sensors and processors (Pro2/T2), but I did with the previous generations (all the 16mp models).
 
The much bigger problem, and why I don't use Fuji for anything involving textiles, hair, fur, or feathers, is even the new sensors and processors are still no good with high-frequency detail. The area of fashion which makes up part of my work demands 20mp+ files without resizing, so clients can check details like stitching and fine texture all from one image file. This is why Fuji completely fails. Skin tones? No problem. Patterns? No problem. Moiré? Never. Colour reproduction? Absolutely fine once you've made a calibrated profile, like with any other camera. High-frequency detail? Completely smeared, even with absolutely 0 noise reduction of any kind, worse than any low-pass filter.
 
If your fashion work is viewed in a resized form or as, for example, a full length shot, Fuji works absolutely fine. If your fashion work is viewed at full size or includes macro/detail crops, either forget Fuji, or have a different system to hand specifically for the close-ups.

Yes, you can.
 
Yes, you can.
Sigma Foveon DP Merrill.
No AA filter, zero moire.

I think the moire concern is with the video output of the Fuji systems, not the still images.  But I could be mistaken ....

I shoot line sheets and e-comm fashion stuff. I see moire all the freaking time with the camera. Is it more than other cameras? I have no clue since I haven't used other cameras. But you cannot escape moire, even with the X-Trans color array. 

Pixel = picture element = group of sensor elements that, together, comprise the necessary information to reproduce any color the elements are capable of recording or displaying for the smallest solid angle. Individual color elements do not have to be the same size, either. OLED panels often use much larger blue elements than red or green to keep the drive voltage down and reduce burn-in while delivering the same amount of light as a smaller blue element driven "harder", but I digress. OLEDs are not used for sensors in any meaningful way.
 
Mosaic = repeating arrangement of picture elements (pixels). A mosaic may be as simple as a pixel like RGB-stripe, may be slightly more complex such as GR,BG (Bayer) where there are two green elements, or a bit more complex GBG,RGR,GBG in tiles that alternate between 0 and 90 degree rotation (portrait and landscape, if you will) so that it takes 4 sets of these 3x3 tiles to define the basic mosaic. X-trans is a 6x6 arrangement (mosaic) of 3x3 pixels alternating in orientation as if you are laying a patterned tile and turn every other one 90 degrees. 
 
X-trans is, arguably, a modified version of Bayer. The pattern is more complex but there are still twice as many green elements as red and blue and those green elements have some bias toward horizontal and diagonal lines but the pattern was "softened" by making quads of green elements.
 
Moire is still possible on X-trans but will be less apparent due to the disruption in the green elements' pattern. Moire comes from capturing and image with a pattern that largely aligns with the sensor's pattern, or a pattern on the media it is reproduced on like a computer monitor or electronic printer.
 
For more information, look up moire in Wikipedia and then modulation transfer function.

There's a lot of misinformation out there about this (unsurprisingly, much of it spread by Fuji's marketing)
 
The fact is that the X-Trans pattern itself does not really prevent moire or false color any better than Bayer does.
 
It's all about the demosaicking and noise reduction.
 
I don't think I've ever seen moire in Fuji's JPEG output. But you may see it when processing the RAW files in other software, where steps like demosaicking, denoising, and moire removal are separate and optional (although some amount of denoising is part of X-Trans demosaicking algorithms)
 
The bottom line is: you won't see it in the JPEGs because Fuji's in-camera processing is quite aggressive and thorough.
 
And if you see it in your RAW processing there are many noise reduction and moire removal algorithms which will reduce it.

Perhaps, my short experience with E2S will be useful.   I own X-T1 for 2.5 years and 3 month ago I got X-E2S. I'm really impressed from the last one. That's camera from the same league, just equipped with less functions. Screen, controls, etc. I didn't compare both side-by-side, because my E2S was planned as a second/spare body. Heh, now I'm thinking keep it as a my primary camera... until E3 will popping...   My nose is voted for rangefinder style also.   Build quality is quite OK, but I don't know how measure it. Not seen anything noticeable. All works as should. May be I'm lucky. I added to E2S soft release button and good grip with L-plate, for personal reasons. Stockstrap is terrible, yeah. Same as from T1 package. I use cheap soft straps from ebay.   Have been used both cameras at my last trip, to Vienna, at September. E2s with 18-55 all time, while T1 was with wide or tele or fast lens depending of situation. Photos from E2S were really good. No worse in any aspect from those I get from T1 + the same 18-55 lens. Low misses count.    I'm not sure, but seems shots from E2S are asking for less postprocessing efforts, comparing to shots taken with T1 (I prefer to shot in RAW). A kind of intuitive feeling based on own initial statistics.   

Until now i didn't though about the xe2s, but today i've seen a black one and it looks amazing !
I know the xt10 had problems in the play button, what about the xe2s? The build quality of the last one is better (made in Japan) ?
Another point is my left eye dominance and big nose 
 
There's some software difference between them? 
 
Thank you very much!

lol I almost feel like i'm stalking you because I keep coming across you after a recent reddit post I saw. when it comes to fuji shooters that shoot fashion it's you and david kai piper that come up the most.

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Welcome to fashion. The New York market is VERY much like this, with these style of images.

Styled and shot these images with Jessica, who you MIGHT recognize from Asia's Next Top Model (if you watch that sort of thing) which is airing right now.X-Pro2, 56mm, 35mm f/1.4, 16mm f/1.4. Natural light, no modifiers.
 

edt

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2715-fashion-portraiture/ 
Instagram
www.jmacapodi.com
 
I'm not a pro but I'm highly interested in fashion photography and transitioning to it, I have my first shoot planned with friends this week, I came across him on reddit, and I see him often during my research, just so happens he post here as well. 

Location wise this is now a no brainer
 
bright shiny XT10 bundled with the 18 - 55 XF or 16 - 50 XC and then save up for 100 - 400 lens
 
trouble getting a second hand fixed - ha - and camera second hand gear is over priced on the belief people look after the gear!
there is always a reason for sale! - and with fuji it is not quality
 
David

? - I picked up the XPRO1 with two lens for 500 UK Pounds last xmas. (new )
Its a brill camera
 
got the x2es + 18 - 55 for less than you are quoting for the xt10 
 
seems your prices are a little high
 
best of luck

I agree.  I should have posted that my X-T1 was a demo model for just over $600.  You should be able to get a grip for $125.  Wasabi batteries for $23 for 2.  I've seen tons of eBay X-T1 in good condition for under $700.   Or with an 18-55 for a decent price.
 
The first package would be a good deal if a lens was also included.  I won't shoot Fuji or Nikon batteries, because they are not worth 4x the cost of Wasabi.  So they don't have a value for me.  

Any listed options have a lens?
Otherwise, all 3 looks too much expensive

I went the used/demo X-T1 route.  This is my first Fuji X camera.  But I have been doing research about it for 6 months.  I will receive my first Fuji lens (60mm for both macro and portraits) tomorrow.  (Actually, my first WORKING Fuji lens.  Shoot, did I just jinx this one too?)
 
The main reasons I chose the X-T1 over the X-T10:
 
View finder size.  It is much larger.  This is a big difference.
Vertical grip option.  I'm a vertical grip shooter.  The comfort is worth the weight for me.  Also the extra battery is important for long sessions or event photography.
The body of the X-T1 is a little more solid.
 
All of these made it a no brainer for me.  I WANT the X-T2, but that is outside of my price range at this time, until I decide to get back into professional work.  Then the X-T1 will be a great backup/second lens body.
 
I buy used when I can.  I had my first problem with the XC50-230 lens.  The OIS guts are broken.  But I'm returning and getting a refund.  I'm out shipping back.  Compared to all the money I have saved with used lenses, I'm way ahead.  I've purchased a Nikon D5100, D7000 used.  Both still work great, although I have had to epoxy my D7000 back together after a bad fall.  (It and the 80-200 AF-D f/2.8 tank still work great.)