BobJ
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Posts posted by BobJ
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Switch the shutter to ES to prevent any possibility of the mechanical shutter going off while cleaning.
Turn on the camera and leave it on
Set IS mode to off.
Clean.
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As far as I know the firmware is not country specific. Are you sure that the filename has not been changed ( I am told this can happen with mac os). That's the only thing I can think of.
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My x-t5 does not exhibit the focusing switch behaviour as you report it, so that is very strange and indicative of a fault. It does not matter whether the flash is attached or not. Once you set the camera for your studio flash, say 1/250th at f5.6, the camera, which is showing you what you will get at that exposure without the flash, will show a black screen unless the ambient light is brighter than what you would typically get indoors. That is why, as Jerry says, you have to set preview exp/wb to off. I have set a button for this.
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I don't understand at all why your histogram is not changing with exposure - it does on my cameras. There is something wrong. The little histogram that you can have in the corner of the viewfinder is of little value - it's too small. If, like on my x-t5, you can have a full histogram with all three colour channels showing, assign a button to it. The resulting histogram is accurate for the jpeg only. The right hand highlight end is fairly accurate for raw, although you may squeeze out another half stop. You cannot recover blown highlights, so make sure the right hand side is not bunched up against the limit. Also remember, that if there are specular highlights in the picture, such as sun on water or mettalic surfaces the highlight end will show a narrow peak, which in this case, will be OK. For raw you can pretty much ignore the shadow clipping as the shadows will be recoverable, unless they are really dark. The histogram is of great use when taking landscapes with a tripod. I use it frequently. It tells me when I need a separate exposure or grad filter for the sky. Of course, you wouldn't use it for street!
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Mine is over a year old. No problems so far
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I used to own the older Fuji 56mm. It sounds like it has not improved. It didn't focus closely enough for a tight head portrait either.
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I used to own the Fuji 56mm. It has a drawback that no-one has mentioned. It doesn't focus closely enough to allow tight head shots.
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This problem is much exaggerated and is difficult to see unless you are pixel peeping. However, if you want the ultimate quality, use X Transformer to do the initial conversion and then import the resulting dng into Lightroom. X Transformer is cheap.
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I had this problem with my X-T3. The bad news is I had to have it repaired. The value shown in the viewfinders is the correct one. Knowing that it is possible to live with the problem. I did that for some time.
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ISO invariance is a bit of a myth. All sensors are effectively ISO invariant. ISO is inherited from methods used to measure the sensitivity of film and is used in digital to indicate the amount of amplification applied to the charge accumulated on the capacitors in the photodiodes. Think of it like turning up the volume on an am radio. Each capacitor is charged during the exposure. When the capacitor is fully charged the brightest tone that can be shown is fixed. If the ISO is raised, the exposure is stopped before the capacitor is fully charged , hence the darkest tone, set by the noise, is pushed up the scale and dynamic range is reduced. It is possible to use more than one capacitor, each one having a value best suited to the ISO chosen. I think this is what is happening here. At ISO 800 the diode is switched over to a smaller value capacitor. I don't actually know that for sure though, but as a retired engineer it seems to make the most sense to me. By the way, circuit noise is almost non existent compared with the 'shot noise' from the random nature of the photons hitting the photodiodes. That is why bigger sensors with larger photodiodes exhibit less noise. The more photons captured the lower the noise. The base ISO is the sensitivity that the manufacturer has set to make best use of the maximum dynamic range possible with the capacitor and amplifier and is always the lowest value shown on the ISO control that is not an 'extended' one (up or down). Upping the ISO will not result in lower noise. You can easily prove that yourself with a bit of pixel peeping on the raw files (not jpeg as the noise reduction algorithm will confuse things).
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I would suspect the cable first. Any good quality usbc to usbc cable should work.
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My guess is that although stabilisation is turned off, the sensor assembly has to be kept in place by the system and also the gyros are probably working full time, as otherwise they would take too long to spin up when stabilisation is re-enabled.
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Many strobes can act as slaves They can be triggered by the light of the on camera flash.
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The 18-55 f2.8. You should be able to find one secondhand.
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Sorry, I was wrong. I just tried downloading the firmware for the 16-55. It is zipped and the instruction is to unzip it. Once this is done there is a folder with the two files inside. The question is should you put the folder on the card or should you open the folder and just copy the two files on? The Fuji instructions do not help, so I guess try both. As the instructions on the Fuji download site does not mention opening the folder up, I would try putting the intact folder on first. unfortunately I don't have the 16-55, so I can't try it out.
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Bear in mind that the Fuji 100-400 is a monster when compared to the 70-300. Personally, for travelling, I would choose the 70-300 despite its more modest max aperture.
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Unfortunately it's not possible to recommend just one strength of filter. You will probably need several. However, to start with, try an nd64. I would stay clear of variables. The cheap ones should definitely be avoided. Also, they don't work very well with wide angle lenses. Something to bear in mind in case you buy such a lens in the future.
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It looks to me that the test shots were underexposed. Maybe the exposure compensation was set. Noise is absolutely tied to exposure.
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This is a strange problem indeed. The only thing I can think of is to use a different computer, or try the Xapp method. I have an x-t5 and have not encountered this problem. The clue might be in your mention of zipped files. If memory serves me, the downloaded file is not zipped and does not need unpacking. I am pretty sure that there will be only one file too. I will try downloading later today to see if I am correct.
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I assume you have formatted both cards in the camera. Try that again anyway. You may have a faulty card, even though it is new. Do you have some alternative cards, or can borrow some? What does the error message say?
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I have owned quite a few cameras over many years (I am 74 and had my first camera aged 18). Apart from accidents I have had the following problems. The metering in my SRT101 failed. My Minolta xd7 suffered from peeling leatherette, but otherwise was my favourite camera ever. My Mamiya 645 1000d 80mm lens developed sticking aperture leaves. My Mamiya 645 Super shutter failed spectacularly- shutter blinds hanging out! My Minolta Dynax7D battery cover became impossible to latch and I had to tape it up to prevent the battery falling out. My Fuji X-T1 flash sync failed and I had the main board replaced under warranty. My X- T3 developed a faulty exposure compensation dial and I had to pay for that one. Probably not bad for 56 years of photography!
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Hello FujiBiker. Welcome. I am a fellow photo dinosaur (the grandchildren are convinced that they were around when I was young) from the West Midlands.
Sensor cleaning gone wrong, please help.
in Fuji X-T5
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Only use sensor cleaning swabs and solution made for the job. They are expensive but a lot cheaper than a new sensor. You may have to do it twice or more but my guess is that it will work.