Gareth_E

I agree - both are fantastic lenses. My 35mm is nice and sharp at 1.4, with the only exception being objects near the close focus distance... for some reason it gets a bit hazy in that scenario and is not as sharp. but anything further away is fantastic.

This is what I have (apart from my 35mm is the 1.4), and I love it. the 90mm is so sublime that once I had used it, I had to get one and worked my other lenses around it (sold my 56mm 1.2). The reason I have the 1.4 35mm though, is so I have at least one fast lens for low light shooting. The 90mm is pretty fast of course being an f2, but because of the focal length you have to have the shutter speed higher accordingly.

yeah it would be great to be able to use the use the Q button

Bummer... sorry to hear that. When I had my X-T10 I remember the EVF being a little bit noisy in low light (as to be expected), but not as bad as you describe. Hopefully after the hassle of returning it and getting it replaced you will be a lot happier.

Do you have focus peaking on? That is likely to be the culprit. For some reason Fuji's focus peaking goes mad in low light and starts adding peaked 'pixels' all over the view giving it the impression of lots of noise. Go into your settings and make sure this is disabled, then try again and see what it's like.

It's hard to explain, I wish I'd have kept some of the shots I was testing them on. Obviously not regular lens distortion, as like you say - there are no elements int he tubes. It was almost like a general smearing / blurring around the edges of the frame (almost like a subtle zoom blur effect), with some very bad CA to boot. To be fair, this was probably due to having several tubes stacked in order to push the shorter lens I was using to 1:1 magnification. I am now using a 90mm so It would have been interesting to try the tubes again... but alas i've sold them now. But to be honest the thing that won me over with the Raynox products, is how quick they are to attach and remove at a moments notice. I could not be doing with the hassle of removing extension tubes out in the field everytime I wished to use my 90mm out of macro range. And as far as my (admittedly non scientific!) tests have shown so far, the Raynox 250 does not seem to incur any noticeable loss of sharpness or image degradation, which is beyond my expectation for something so inexpensive.

Despite his self promoting 'pro' advice, reading his reviews and articles smacks of nothing more than an enthusiastic amateur trying desperately to come across as more... but then with alarming regularity he will state an opinion as fact, that flies in the face of reason, or real working practices.

I wouldn't trust anything that Ken Rockwell has to say. This is the guy that refers to 'P' mode as Pro Mode.

My ultra portable solution - a Domke F5XB. It just about fits the following: X-T2, with 35mm 1.4 mounted (with hood on) 90mm f2 with third party short hood mounted 18-55 (couldn't squeeze a hood onto this one) Plus a couple of batteries, lens pen, wipes and microfibre cloth etc. It is pretty snug at the point to say the least but works! I do need a bigger bag for times when I need to carry more, but I'm a bit obsessed with carrying the smallest camera bag I can get away with! I recently bought a Tenba DNA 8, which has more pockets etc than the Domke, but I didn't get on with it as the flap doesn't fold behind the bag when open, which I find extremely annoying. My fault though - should have researched this more when I ordered it.

I have only 3 lenses, and that is all I plan on having for the time being: 1.) 18-55 2.) 35mm f1.4 3.) 90mm f2 I have a Raynox 250 I can quickly clip onto the front of the 90mm to make it an instant true 1:1 macro. I did have the 56mm 1.2, but sold it to get the 90mm. As fantastic a lens as the 56mm is, I never really liked the quality of the Bokeh. Yes there's lots of it, but I didn't really care for the 'soap bubble' effect. I much prefer how both the 35mm 1.4 and the 90mm render out of focus areas. So much smoother, and more like what i'm used to coming from DSLR.

Simple as that! Received my 90mm f2 today, and quickly clipped my Raynox 250 to the front and took a couple of test shots and was very impressed. Fantastic quality, and true 1:1 magnification. I had previously tried extension tubes and screw in close up filters (high quality ones though) on my 56mm 1.2, and was never satisfied with the final quality when approaching 1:1... there would be lots of distortion, aberrations etc. After reading some macro forums, someone suggested I try a Raynox 150 or 250 instead. I thought they looked cheap & nasty, and were suspiciously inexpensive, so I thought what the hell, and ordered one. I am very impressed. So much easier than extension tubes, as just quickly clips on to the front of the lens, and can be removed in a second to allow for regular shooting. Optically I cannot fault it. I just wish i'd found out about these ages ago! Anyway, here is a quick test shot of some moss in the garden with this combo... using the standard small XT-2 flash and a piece of paper help over the lens as a makeshift diffuser. Macro Moss by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr And here is the patch of moss next to the 35mm 1.4 lens cap for scale. Moss 35mm by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr Not bad huh! If you already own the 90mm, do yourself a favour and pick up a Raynox 250 for quick proper macro gratification!

In case anyone is interested, the R Luther buttons finally arrived today. I have applied one to the AE-L and AF-L buttons, and also to the front function button, making them MUCH easier to find. Vastly overpriced for what they are, but still... looks good and does the job!

I had an order with my local camera shop for weeks, and since launch date the only stock that Fuji have supplied them with so far was 2 bodies only (no kits yet). Which went instantly as you can imagine (luckily one was to me!) It seems like Fuji are drip feeding stock here and there in small numbers, which unfortunately means that for the moment they are still very hard to get hold of. Extremely frustrating I know!

Could be a software glitch... I had my XT-10 on the most recent firmware and didn't have this issue. Although I did get a bit sick of accidentally pressing buttons with my palm (and I only have small hands) so bit the bullet and purchased the horrendously overpriced Fuji Metal grip. It doesn't add much size/weight to the camera, but really does help to stop your hand pressing buttons whilst you work. Recommended!

This is true in terms of positioning, but on my X-T2 at least, the AE-L button is much harder to physically press. You almost have to press it with your thumb nail instead of your actual thumb. Not ideal at all.

Thanks for the link! Yeah they look good... like you say, pricey for what they are. Might end up giving them a shot, although I'm just experimenting wit using the front function button on the X-T2 to focus, and it works quite well for me, as my finger naturally falls right on it when I grip the camera. EDIT: I've just placed an order. Not sure how long shipping will take to the UK, but i'll report back when I receive them. $25 seems like a lot for what is basically a few tiny stick on buttons, however if they greatly improve the BBF experience on the X-T2 then they will definitely be worth it... for me at least.

Well, I finally got my hands on an X-T2 after weeks and weeks of back orders at my local camera store. I would have had to wait longer if I wanted the kit with the 18-55, so I opted for just the body, and will just have to use my longer lenses for the time being. This camera just feels right. For me, it is the perfect blend of size, function, features and quality. I have almost nothing bad to say about it......almost. So here it is... The AF-L & AE-L buttons are bad. Tiny, and difficult to press - especially the AE-L which is almost recessed! The first thing I do with cameras is to set them up for back button focus, which I have just done with the X-T2. The trouble is, the AF-L button is so small and clicky, it does not make for a pleasant BBF experience. And this isn't even in comparison to a DSLR..it's coming from my X-T10, where although the button was still small, it seemed to protrude out more and was much easier for your finger to locate and press. A very small gripe on an otherwise flawless camera. It's such a shame the Q button can't be used instead, as on my copy at least, it is a far more 'confident' button to press than the AF-L or AE-L buttons. Ho hum! But the EVF.........drool!

Great - hopefully I will get my hands on one soon!

I went from a 5dmkii (and I still have a 40D) to an X-T10, and I did not regret it at all. The X-T10 is so much fun to shoot with, the image quality is excellent, and things that I didn't even think of beforehand were far superior than the 40D.. like accuracy of auto white balance etc. With the 40D, unless I did a custom white balance or shot a grey card in every scene, I inevitably spent quite a bit of time correcting the colours in Lightroom afterwards. With the X-T10, I only felt like I had to do this once per about 150 shots or so. Another great thing for me from moving to mirrorless from dslr... no more front/back focussing problems! I had to micro adjust the focus on some of my canon lenses to almost their maximum settings to get them to focus on target. You won't find this problem with the Fuji cameras My only two negatives of the X-T10 were the physical size, and the viewfinder. Now I have small hands, and one of the main reasons I went mirrorless was the smaller, more convenient form factor, but even taking this into account I found that I would be frequently pressing buttons on the back of the camera with my palm with got a bit frustrating. I ended up disabling the function of a couple of the buttons in the end so this wasn't a problem. Although the optional metal grip that Fuji sells for it helped a lot with this, and I would 100% recommend it (although is a rip off at about £80). The viewfinder is amazing in terms of resolution, refresh rate and general quality... but the eye cup is not very deep, and in brighter light situations the image in the EVF can appear washed out due to the light seeping in there between your eye and the 'cup'. Not sure if there are other eyecup options out there for the X-T10, but might be worth checking out. In summary, moving from a 40D to X-T10 is a no brainer move as far as I am concerned. You will really enjoy the experience of this fantastic little (but very capable) camera compared to your ageing canon beast. However If I had to do it again I would probably have gone for an X-T1, for the slightly more comfortable grip size and better EVF/eye cup. Hope this helps!

Hopefully this is an indication that more stock will start filtering in to other outlets soon. Enjoy your camera tomorrow!

...soon - it will be mine! (hopefully soon anyway - hurry up Fuji!)

It pains me to say it as I adore the results, but the 56mm 1.2 is my least used. Apart form that, I currently only own the 18-55 and 55-200... and just find that 90% of the time the 56 doesn't even get an outing. I just wish it focussed a bit closer... the quite long min focus distance on it feels too restrictive. (I've tried extension tubes and good quality close up lens to allow me to get in a bit tighter, but wasn't happy with the results). I think ultimately I will sell it and get the 60mm macro, and probably the 23mm f2 when it's released also.

I didn't get an X-T2 on launch, as at the time I was happy (or so I thought) with my X-T10. Well now i've decided to get one, but there are none to be found anywhere (UK at least) - unless I wanted to get one shipped from another country. My local camera shop is going to let me know when they get their next order in, but admitted that they have no idea when this will even be, as Fuji can't even tell them at the moment. Fingers crossed it's not too much longer. I'm getting camera jealousy from all you X-T2 owners!

I'd really like to know this regarding the 56mm 1.2. I recently got one for my X-T10 and I have to admit as fantastic as the image quality is, I found the autofocus performance a bit disappointing. Even with a reasonable sized focus point it still hunts a lot. If the performance is noticeably improved on an X-T2 then it may sway me to look at upgrading.

I really wish I didn't like the results of Iridient Developer as much as I do, as it has now taken me down the path of a more inefficient workflow to obtain the best results. At first I was happy with the results from the latest version of LR (and for the most part I am) but even now, as soon as there is a lot of grass / foliage in view, LR just cannot cope, and the watercolour/smeary texture returns. I have tried the past advice of putting the detail slider to 100, and then adjusting the amount, and although it does seem to help compared the the 'regular' sharpening, it is still quite bad. I think I am going to be happy with the IQ in Lightroom for 80% of my images, and for those that i'm not, I will have to adapt the slightly inefficient workflow of taking them into Iridient Developer.