frankinfuji

If you examine images from the two lenses from a purely technical point of view ('sharpness', 'bokeh', DOF control, IS performance etc) you are almost bound to come to the conclusion that the XC lens is better value that the XF and that the XC is 'good enough'. They were designed from the outset to be this way. 'XC - Good enough' and 'XF - a bit better', but twice the price. I started with the XC, and was happy with it - it's a really good lens (for the money), but when compared to my other Fuji lenses, I thought the 'handling' was less satisfying, and there was something about the image quality that was not quite good enough. The contrast was slightly less than my other lenses (XF 18-55, 60mm, 35mm, 27mm) and the colors looked different - especially blues. If any shots included blues (sky and sea in particular) there was a pale/turquoise hue to the JPEGS compared to my other lenses. Yes, adjustments in post processing of RAW files can improve the image, but I like to shoot JPEGS which is why I bought Fuji in the first place. So I bought the XF lens, even though I already had the XC. And I'm really pleased with it! The wider max aperture is a big boost, as it allows faster shutter speeds, but the main benefit is a subtle improvements in the quality of the image. Difficult to explain, but you know when you use a quality prime for the first time, there's a 'cinematic' look that is more than just the shallower DOF and improved sharpness? It has a similar look and feel to the primes and the smaller XF zoom, and for it's reach the weight is reasonable. And I use Fuji partly because of the way the equipment handles - so the nicer feel and the aperture ring are additional advantages. So I will now only use the XC lens if weight is the most important factor (travelling with hand luggage only, I guess).

Here's my (slightly personal) table: X-Pro 1 and 2 - Too big X-T1 and 2 - mock prism is a bit too much, too many knobs and dials, too heavy X-E2 Just right X-E1 Too slow X-M1 No viewfinder X-A1 and 2 Girls camera X 100 Lens is stuck on with glue or something Can you guess what body I use?

In theory you have it all covered if you take the 18-55 and the 55-200. But I always prefer the shots I've taken with a prime, so I'd go with the 23 f1.4 and the 35 f1.4 (or f2.0). This would also save about 1.5 tonnes of weight in your hand luggage.

Impressive final shot and good to read about how it was done. Makes my single flash with a plastic diffuser look a bit basic!

Hi. Hope you enjoy your Fuji experience. The X100 and X-Pro 1 are a different experience to the latest generation of Fuji's. They are great if you are more interested in the 'look' of an image than speed of operation. If your style of photography is considered and unrushed, then I think you will like the Fuji 1's. But if you want snappy focus you may be frustrated. The second generation Fuji cameras are a big improvement in this area. But the first generation sensor has a reputation for nicer tones (especially skin tones) and less aggressive smoothing at high ISO's. The X-Pro 1 was really designed for use with the 'holy trinity' of primes (18mm, 27mm, 35mm f1.4) so I'd recommend you try it with these. (My vote goes for the 35mm f1.4 as a first lens). You mention the screen issue - have you tried adjusting the monitor color and brightness to get a look closer to what you want? Also - do you have latest firmware installed (for body and lens for the Pro 1)?

Good question! I'm also confused about this. Hope someone will be along soon to explain it to us. I'm sure the X-T1 and 2 have this capability, as does my X-E2. But when I press either of the back buttons nothing seems to happen? I guess I need to set up the camera properly to make it work?

Very nice photos - I particularly like the one of the Lioness and the birds. Fuji don't make any bad lenses - and your shots using the 55-200 are very sharp with nice contrast. For me, the 50-140 is too big for a lens with limited range - although if I was a professional photographer - having a high quality WR f2.8 lens that I could leave on my camera for most purposes would be very attractive - but as an amateur I can't justify the cost or the weight.

The X-Pro is excellent, but it's just too large for me - I like to have my camera most days. The X-T2 is a great camera - but why does it need to look like a 'mock DSLR'? It's like one of the new VW Beetles that has the engine in the front - it's a fake DSLR with a pretend prism. Sony did the same with the 7 series. An X-E3 would be perfection.

Impressive shots. The right image at the right time can change history.

Does anyone really need more than 200mm on a crop sensor body? Can't you just move closer to the thing you are trying to photograph?

I'm impressed with it. I've also used the XC 50-230 a little, but although it was good, it didn't have that extra 'Fuji magic' - and to be honest - the 35mm f1.4 was nearly always glued to my camera - as I just liked the 'look' it produced. But sometimes you just can't 'zoom with your feet' - so I bought the 55-200 in the hopes it would give me more reach whilst also preserving some of the qualities of the 35mm. It didn't disappoint. The wider aperture and higher quality optics just gives it that little extra edge that makes me want to use it. I still prefer the 35mm (and the 27mm) primes when I don't need the longer focal length - but I'm very pleased with the 55-200 and use it about 50% of the time now. For some reason I almost never use the 18-55 - although it's just as good as the 55-200 - not sure why?

Welcome. Great camera and good first lens. Have fun learning!

Some early shots with my new 55-200

One of the great joys of owning an interchangeable lens camera is that we can completely change our user experience by buying a new lens. We still have the same familiar body, we know how to use her dials and buttons to get the effects we desire, but suddenly she feels excitingly different. Her balance is different, she may become giddily light and almost pocket-able, or she may take on a serious, heavy demeanor; depending on which new lens we have just slid onto her body. And it's like being given new super-powers. Suddenly we can see across huge distances, or see into the microscopic world of insects to resolve the finest detail. Or we can be given the power over depth of field and the ability to see in almost total darkness. Our view of the world around us has changed. And because memories are now digital - our history will look different from now onwards. I recently added the XF 55-200 to my collection of carefully selected lenses (27mm f2.8, 35mm f1.4, 18-55 zoom). The I went back to my favorite photo haunt, a simple park near my home - and everything looked different.

I thought about getting the X-T2 just for the joystick - but decided this was insane as I'm still happy with my X-E2. But small things like the ability to easily move the focus point means a lot when we use a camera every day. The flip out screen would also be handy. I don't think any of the other advances in the X-T2 would make any difference to my photos - but how a camera handles is important, and possibly the reason many of us use Fuji bodies.

The 60 f2.4 is much better with the latest firmware. Still not a lens for action shots or low light use - but a decent portrait lens that is compact and a good price. 56 f1.2 gets great results - but it costs a lot more in weight and $'s

Hi. Recently moved 'up' from micro 4/3 after playing with a borrowed Fuji body and the two XC kit lenses. Now have an X-E2 upgraded with Firmware 4.0 plus a few 'essential' lenses : 18-55, 55-200, 35 f1.4, 27 f2.8 and 60 f2.4 Still learning, but enjoying the process.

As others have said - getting the effect you want with the XC kit lens can take some planning. With a longer lens and/or one with a wider aperture it's easier - but you can get the effect with any lens, and even with a camera-phone, if you set the shot up right. First - set shutter speed to Auto A Set the aperture to manual - and use the wheel on the back to get the widest aperture (lowest f number). Then set it up so that your subject (flowers in your test shot - but this effect is normally used for portraits) is fairly close to the camera AND the background is as far away as possible. Extend the zoom to get the composition you need - try moving back and zooming in as needed - so that the subject looks close and the background is in the distance. With your kit zoom used for a portrait shot - you'll need to have a person at head and shoulders distance away (or head only). You need a longer lens and wider aperture to get a whole body shot with a blurred background. That should do it. Background blur is a result of using a narrow depth of field (the range that is in focus) - and the wider the aperture, the longer the lens and the bigger the sensor - the narrower the depth of field. Your sensor size is fixed - so play with zooming the lens and always use the widest available aperture (lowest number). A head and shoulders portrait at mid to max zoom/widest aperture with a background waaaaay back (like a line of trees in the distance) will do what you want with the kit zoom. As another example - a mobile phone has a tiny lens and short focal length - so the subject needs to be right up close and the background way back and lighting bright to get the effect - but any camera can achieve the effect you're after ..... it's just much easier with a long/wide lens.

Yes - to get a significantly different range and look, I'd go for the 55-200. It covers the next zoom range from current zoom, and you have the 35mm prime when you want compact/sharp/narrow DOF.

I've used the XC 50-230 with an X-M1 and an X-E2. The X-E2 is quicker when it's struggling if you use the central focus points - as it hunts less before giving up and giving you the red square. Outside the central PDAF area it's the same as the X-M1

I have the X-E2 and the upgrade to firmware 4.0 was simple and problem free. I looked at an X-E2S in the shop, and apart from the removal of the labels on the buttons (the upgrade 4.0 allows you to reconfigure the buttons, so the labels are not needed) and a slightly different handgrip, I couldn't see any difference. So in your position I try to find the best deal on a new X-E2, and if it's a good discount compared to the X-E2S, go for it. But keep the X-E1, as I've heard the skin tones are better than the E2 at higher ISO.