frankinfuji

It's not true that we all use our 35mm f1.4 wide open all the time. I distinctly remember shooting at f2.8 in 2014. And my 35mm was my third prime with Fuji - so it wasn't a case of 'prime virginity' distorting my views. I think you may be applying too much objective science to your comparison. The 35 f1.4 uses magic, not physics. But my plea in mitigation for my f1.4-phillia, is that whenever I scan through all my shots on Flickr and think 'that's a nice looking image' and check the EXIF data - it's almost always a shot taken with the 35mm ........ wide open.

Hi Guy - I'm sure you've figured it out by now. With the 18-55 you set the switch on the lens body to manual aperture (the lens aperture symbol) then use the inner ring on the lens to adjust aperture. Unlike the prime lenses or constant aperture lenses, it does not have the apertures marked on the lens barrel - this is because the aperture varies with the focal length, so you need to use the screen or viewfinder to see the aperture. Then if shutter speed is on auto A you get aperture priority semi-auto. Or you can set the shutter speed to get full manual. You can set iso to auto and limit the max to 3200 or 6400 and DR to auto and forget about them while you get the hang of the main controls.

With my X-E2 - the viewfinder shows AF-C when set to c and the next clic to M it shows MF with focus check.

Special images of a special day. Your wife will forgive you..... eventually!

I use the 27mm a lot - it's often the difference between carrying the camera with me and leaving it at home. Then 35mm f1.4 is the next most used lens. Your D7100 will start to feel really big.

X-Pro or X-T1 plus WR lens - it rains (a lot) in KL. Tripod for the night photo of the amazing PETRONAS Towers.

35mm f1.4

Welcome John ..... you have some great images on your site - not surprisingly you have a good eye for the light! One comment we often hear in relation to Fuji prime lenses is that they have a 'cinematic' look - is that true? What's the thoughts from a professional?

..... everything else except the extra stop on the 1.4 and the water resistance of the 2.0. Either of these could be critical for some users.

As an X-E2 user you'll not need the water resistance of the f2 lens - so I reckon the f1.4 is the better bet. Wider aperture and a 'special' optical quality. Personally I like the focus motor noise - it's a natural feedback system that lets you know what it's doing. Would be an issue if I shot video with the X-E2, but that's not likely.

something in between for me. I like the light/compact 27mm and sometimes need to big 55-200, but I love the 35mm f1.4

I suspect the top display and the pretend prism housing are design clues to signal that it's a serious pro camera. Just in case we missed the clues from the $5000 price tag and the huge sensor. Same reason that every movie these days is a remake of an old movie - the accountants will not allow the designers/directors to take any risks.

Excellent shots. Nice wide depth of field, everything in focus and great light - no dark corners. I never knew Athens was in Tennesee!

Looks like a great tool for professional portrait photographers. I'm hoping that firmware upgrade 4.02 for my X-E2 will give me a medium format sensor and an interchangeable viewfinder!

I have an X-E2 and use focus peaking - and it still works after I updated the firmware to version 4. I needed to change the settings back to the way I had it set up with the previous firmware (highest setting for peaking plus blue color), but it works the same.

I guess you are right, but I still think it's odd that many of the major manufacturers produce essentially the same camera in two different 'styles'. We can have a pretend SLR with mock prism, or a pretend Leica. I'd prefer for Fuji, Sony, Olympus and Panasonic to just create a body shape that fits the hand and the face. There's no 35mm film cassette, mirror or prism, and with the exception of the X-Pro there's no optical viewfinder - so why not design a shape that fits the purpose rather than something that looks a 1950's film camera. It's the same design ethos as the new VW Beetle and the BMW Mini - both fashion statements rather that logical designs. When I bought my X-E2, I also looked at the X-T10. I didn't set out to buy 'a body that looks like an old rangefinder' or one 'that looks like an old SLR' - I wanted to buy a Fuji X series body within a specific price range.

...... plus water/dust resistant. Many of the new lenses are WR - so perhaps they are heading for all WR bodies? But I think Fuji may have considered if they really need the X-T10 and the X-E2S? Both are really in the same market segment. I would prefer an X-E3

I'm with Sluw and Tikcus on this one. Your X-T10 is not water resistant, so the key advantage of the 35mm f2 is not needed, so the wider aperture of the 35 f1.4 will give you a tighter depth of field for portraits and allow higher shutter speeds for low light, compared to the f2. The 35 f1.4 is available at some good discounts now, so although it's list price is higher than the f2, it is often the same price. You can also get them second hand. You already have the wider field of view covered with your kit lens, so the real estate shooting is covered - and you don't need the shallow DOF or wider aperture for real estate shots - so the 23mm adds less extra capability.

Fuji already have a 100-400mm OIS zoom. You may miss the in-body IS of the OM-D, but having moved from Lumix micro 4/3 to Fuji, I don't think there's much else you will miss. But the one area where the best DSLR's may have the edge is sports photography and image tracking, although I hear the X-T2 is a big step forward in this area. Will be good to hear what you think after your trial.

Probably just a display driver glitch? Fixed by switching on and off. I've had a couple of odd display issues in the past with my X-E2, but no recurring issues since.

Welcome!

Some great images in the link. But definitely one for the dust-proof X-T1/2 and Pro bodies.

Great to see the new X-T2 bringing new people into the 'family'! Welcome.

Same for me. For narrow DOF portraits I use the smallest square and place it over the nearest eye. But for more general work - such a small square may cause slow focus - as there may not be much contrast in the small square (I think), so I use a bigger square or zone focusing. I have three of the rear buttons (the top and the two side buttons around the circle) all set to focus on my X-E2 (firmware 4), so it's easy to move the focus point with one push, then use the wheel to change the size if needed.

I use my 35mm f1.4 in Bangkok (35-40'C/100'F) and not had this issue. And with the latest firmware v4 for the X-E2 body the lens does much less hunting when using the center focus points.