frankinfuji

XF27mm @f3.2

The 50 f2 is possibly my next lens 'investment', so I'm also waiting for a thorough review. The 56mm is a bit big and expensive for me, so the new GFX range isn't even on my radar. For me, excess weight spoils the user experience, as I don't enjoy carting heavy gear around.

Nice light on this interesting mechanical still life.

Nice 'product shot'. Nice helmet too, looks expensive?

X-E2 35mm f1.4

@tymmygg - nice, stylish portraits. The black and white one has a 40's Hollywood look.

Lots of good advice in the earlier posts. You already have two good zooms, and they focus fast and have OIS, so in my view you have the general 'household' use covered. I think the real benefit of a prime is the different 'look' you can get from a prime lens as compared to general purpose zooms. This is a combination of the wider aperture and the design quality or character of the lens. The 35 f1.4 excels at both of these aspects. But as you are experimenting with manual controls, also consider trying an older manual lens using an adapter. Some classic primes can give a very different look, and you can find some wide aperture lenses cheaply on the second hand market. One other thought. You start by saying you want to try more manual control, then mention upgrading to an X -T2/20. In practice it's the improved automation that is a key benefit to upgrading (faster, better autofocus etc), but to suit your aims you could consider 'downgrading' to an X-Pro 1? It encourages creative manual control, and the quality of the image (not IQ) is different, and in my view better, than the series 2 and 3 sensors.

Gorgeous wedding shots. Really like the contrast between dress and background in tbe one of the Bridesmaid.

The f2 is a great lens, but there's always a lively debate about the f1.4 vs the f2 35mm lenses. But now you have a good excuse to buy the 56mm f1.2!

No issues with my 60mm either. Perhaps try updating the firmware for the lens? Do you have the latest firmware? Or perhaps a dirty contact? Is the eye detection for the EVF working OK?

Yes - same thoughts from me. The key is the minimum shutter speed setting for the Auto ISO. I usually use 1/60 with the 35mm lens for slow moving subjects - like a steady portrait session or static objects, but raise to 1/100 for general shots. I set either max ISO 3200 if I want high quality portraits, or 6400 for general shots (but this will risk the excess skin smoothing if you shoot jpegs). Also - but it's too late now - the 35 f1.4 has a low light advantage over the f2.

May be your metering mode? The background is dark and the subject bright - the camera will average out the exposure giving you a dark-ish background and very bright subject. If you set the metering zone to a point and place this on the subject, then the face would look right and the background would probably go black. Or use exposure compensation.

In theory you could use WIFI to back up. But the real reason we'd not use a T-T20 for a professional wedding shoot is that the T20 lacks that one essential feature for a pro. 'Bigness'

Very nice, natural looking and unusual portrait. Sensual too.

I've found that I need to go into WIFI settings and click on connect several times, as the tablet says 'no internet' and so it does not connect automatically.

I have a Lumix GX7 with touchscreen capability, and although there's no lag, I only ever use the feature when viewing the image on the screen. It's just not practical to use the touchscreen when using the evf, unless you fold it out so the screen is next to the body, but even then it's an awkward manoeuvre. But I do like the 'touch shutter' feature on the Lumix - it focuses on the touch point then takes the shot. It seems crazy to buy an X-T2 for a joystick, especially as it seems it's a bit slow, but I seem to be moving the focus point in almost every shot I take, so it may still be worth the premium cost over the T20 for me.

XF 35 f1.4

Keep the X-E2s with the 27mm, as a combination it beats the X100 for capabilities and lens sharpness in my view. And it's a spare body for your X-T2 lenses. For the cost of an X-Pro 2 (which adds no significant capability over what you have), you could get the 35mm or 90mm primes.

35mm f1.4

I'm still deciding on if I really 'need' an X-T2, but if I get one, it will be black. For me the manual controls are a big part of the 'leisure experience' of using a Fuji body, and I think white markings on a black body are clearer, simpler and therefore more pleasing to use. And most of my lenses are black.

I really like the night shots, and the smoky 'Barney' shot taken inside the locomotive is excellent. You may not get many views or comments on this site with a link to a page of thumbnails though. Mist of us have Flickr accounts, so can comment there, but I don't have an account for the one in your link, so couldn't add any comments or likes.

Nice landscape!

With the possible exception of auto-focus, which you may not need, and the better viewfinder on the newer X-Series, I think the X-E1 is still a very good performer. I have an X-E2, but still use my older X-M1 (which has the same sensor and internals as the X-E1) as I prefer the jpegs from the older sensor. I think I really only miss my X-E2 when trying to use auto focus in low light, or when I need to use a viewfinder. (But I miss my X-M1 when I need a tilting screen or want a more compact camera!) But compare prices of a good used X-E2 to an X-E1 - as the X-E2 with the latest firmware is the equivalent of the current X-E2S model. And if you don't use a viewfinder much - look at new X-M1 - they can be found for around $350, with the XC zoom lens.

Looking at the comments it looks to me like the Fuji X series attracts experienced photographers (because of the traditional manual controls and the quality of the lenses), so we know how to work around the issues by switching to manual or using previously assigned back buttons for some nifty focus control, and of course RAW to avoud the much discussed waxy skin. But I don't remember having to work around shortcomings with my Canon or Lumix systems. I still suspect we either tolerate or are happy to work around the issues because we have a favourite lens that other systems cannot match. Mine's the 35 f1.4 and surprisingly the cheap 27mm that was my first Fuji prime.