hildasea

I have an XT-3 / X-H1 and the X-H1 camera is my favorite. It is a professional camera and requires a steep learning curve. The construction is very resistant (professional workhorse) and for amateur is this camera for very, very long term use. I´m very happy with the X-H1, mainly the IBIS function is extremely great. (I switch from Canon FF to Fuji 4 years ago).

This problem has mainly two reasons. First video w/o powergrip or bad bateries. Second the failure of motherboard. I had same problems with overheating by X-T2 and the result was, that Fuji service replace the motherboard. Now I have not any problems. I think that SD card UHS I is to slow for data flow on X-T2.

I don´t now how is this with Godox, but I have Nissin i60A and it works on X-T2 (same flash protocol as X-T20) perfect in ISO AUTO mode. The same results are in normal sync, AUTO shutter or in HSS mode. From 1m distance is TTL funktion correct with low ISO number. (Lower than max value in ISO AUTO). I´m with Nissin i60A very satisfied. PS: I have last FW in flash.

milandro: Thanks for the video. I can now change my eyecup on X-T2.

I think, that on X-T2 the eyecup is´nt changeable.

I´m with joystick very satisfied. This feature was one of important features by my decision between my old X-T1 and new X-T2.

Es sind linear Motoren, da innere rotierende Tubus "schwimt" in der Mitte von 4 motorem. They are linear motors, because the rotating tubus "is swimming" in the middle of 4 motors.

etomcat: The C1Pro is very comprehensive SW and is oriented for professional use. Not so easy to learn as LR. Only basic editing need min. one month studies. But the results - when you really learn customizing and processing in C1Pro - are on very high level, especially the RAF files. I´m C1Pro user since version 4 and I was simultaneously user LR 4, 5, 6 for other systems as Fuji. From my experience is C1Pro the best RAF editor in Windows. Specially for skin tones, excellent detail resolution and w/o watercolor effect.... and the editing/masking in up to 16 layers pro image is awesome.

Nice shots. I use this combo for concerts and theatre events and I´m very satisfied. From my experience is good when the images are from camera flat with lower contrast. Contrast and sharpness I add in PP. Before Fuji I was Canon guy (6D+L glass). I wish you many nice shots.

Concert with poor green light from projector. ISO 3200; f2,8; shutter 1/250; 140mm.

Sorry, but I have X-T2 since october 2016 as profi user and w/o any purple artefacts. This purple "mistake" is not problem of Fuji sensor, but it is mostly mistake of photographer. The same purple flare with diverse artefacts is to see on other cameras as CaNikon/Pentax/Oly etc. To solve this problem (when needed) is possible RAW editing in Rawtherapee with custom demosaic settings. Talbot Trenton: What is photogenic light?

I see any difference by write speed in slot 1 or slot 2 or in both slots. I can shoot easy about 50 JPEG in one sequence w/o any problems in EVF, shooting speed or AF.

Our regional technical support from Fuji told that for X-T2 is better choice two same cards, because both slots have one controller. I´m not technical expert, but when I bought X-T2, my first question was about good cards, because I need shoot some times images in series. I read reviews from Fuji ambassadors and after them I spoke with our Fuji support. The result are my two Lexar 2000x for best possible performance.

kimcarsons: In X-T2 is one controller for two slots for cards. Is better way to use same cards in both slots. It is different to X-Pro2.

kimcarsons: They are in tests recommended for X-T2 two cards: first choice is Lexar 2000x (300/260 MB/s) and second Toshiba Exceria Pro (260/240 MB/s). Sure, they are very expensive, but by Fuji X-T2 is very small HW tolerance. I copy - for you - cca 200 images RAW from card 1 to card 2 and w/o problems (Lexar 2000x to Lexar 2000x). But I have no idea for what I can use this function.

Sorry, but I do mostly payed jobs. The 2. slot is by me as backup. Lexar 2000x have on X-T2 write speed 153 MB/S a read speed is about 270 MB/S. I see no need to copy images from slot 1 to slot 2. For what is it?

I have two cards Lexar 2000. After 8k images still w/o problems with write speed. I´m very satisfied.

My first Fuji was X-T1. Now I have X-T2. I shoot 80% of my photos on the concerts and in the theatre. So, low light photography. For me and my prints 30x40 cm are photos up to ISO 2000 w/o any problems with noise. Yes, I use by X-T2 other settings for shooting as for X-T1. For developing of RAFs is for me Capture One best choice for WIN10. I think that X-T1 and X-T2 give me aprox. the same image quality, but the X-T2 have most better AF and detail resolution.

In full Auto (ISO, time, Aperture) you can with exp. comp ring correct the exposition. If you have all - ISO, time, aperture on nominal value (examle: ISO200, t1/125, f4) you can correct exposition manual with aperture, or time, or ISO ring. When you choose any of this 3 options to A, is ring of exp. compensation active for manual exposition.

I use for TTL universal hot shoe cord Nissin SC-01. It works perfect on my X-T2.

I have X-T2 since 09/2016. If you need very fast and accurate AF-C focus, large files and joystick, or you need very capable video features, so is the X-T2 most better as X-T1. With power grip and XF 50-140 you have the same or better focus capability as top Canon or Nikon (for sport ect.). The image quality is not too different. For me have X-T2 better AWB in difficult light conditions - for example concert, theatre ect.

I have X-T2 with Nissin i60A + TTL Nissin cord. It works perfect on any distance to subject. I set TTL on "A" and I don´t worry about the exposition. ISO Auto 200-1600, shutter speed A (or if I need 1/250). Optical trigger and HSS is not working. But with 1/500 you lose only 10% of bottom margin of image. With shutter speed 1/400 is full image. I´m very satisfied with power, short recharge time and reflector heat resistance. If I have report shooting, I change every ca 50 shots batteries in flash because they are to hot. With two sets of batteries I can use the flash for 100 shots/hour. When are the batteries cold, I replace the hot in flash with the cold. With external power supply you can shoot without any problems. Reflector have no issue.

I have X-T2 with powergrip XT2-VPB. My very successful settings for tracking: AF-C setting set to second custom preset „Ignore obstacles&continue to track subject“,phase detect area 3x3 (zone focusing), CH 5 shots/minute, and it works fine. The most of photos are razor sharp (soccer). Conclusion: For good results - lenses with linear AF drive, OIS OFF and powergrip. Not one point AF or wide tracking. Only 5 shots/minute because without blackout in EVF. I´m very happy with results. I was Canon guy.

I purchase an Fuji X-T2 which I've been using to shoot soccer with a zoom XF 50-140/2,8 It's a big step up from the X-T1 in AF-C capability. I've got the AF-C setting set to second custom preset „Ignore obstacles&continue to track subject“, and it works fine. I have done ca. 600 photos and only 4 was total out of focus. The most of photos is razor sharp. Some photos is little bit soft, but without problem - it can be easy solved by post proces. Other setting: shutter 1/1000, aperture f4, ISO AUTO, phase detect area 3x3 (zone focusing), CH 5 shots/minute, boost ON, grip XT2-VPB. !! lens OIS was OFF !! becausse panning. Conclusion: I´m very satified with the AF-C and keeper rate. Any other settings I should be playing with?

Yes, grip make contact to the body - all functions in grip are working. Cam shows all 3 batteries. I will call the Fuji service for informations. Thanks for answers.