darknj

Easiest way to do that is to use manual focus and still the AF-L button and refocus if your point changed.

I just want it to be pancake sized!
 
I would pack it with any of the 35 and the 27 to boot and I have enough to play with when doing some streets

We have the Super Takumar 50mm F4 for that spot :]

I lost that little dinky thing.  I actually sealed the Sync terminal with some sugaru.  Problem solved.

I've written up my thoughts on the XF90mm lens from Fujifilm, including some images from a recent shoot and a few other samples.
 
http://photomadd.com/fujifilm-xf90mm-f2-lens-review-and-gallery/
 
Hope you enjoy!
 
Matt

I think it's always personal opinion, and often depends on image type you are taking. Just spend 30 days with single lens only to understand it's potential.
 
I was taking portraits and general pictures with Voigtlander 40mm 1.4 on X-T1 for about month. Then I made few shots with XF 35mm 1.4 on F1.4. Comparing to Voigtlander results this lens is just ridiculously sharp wide open - it catches every skin pore. It took few days for me to get used again to that sharpness level : )
 
BTW, just make sure your NR is set to -2 to judge real sharpness of the lens. Fuji NR is a bit aggressive there.
 
I'd recommend to choose 35mm f2 if you need faster focus, smaller size, and probably extra weather/dust protection.
But if you like DOF of 1.4, take 35mm 1.4 then, it's one of the best Fuji lens, a real jem, and it's perfectly usable on that F1.4.

I just played around a bit, and I can get a black screen between the shots in two ways:
 
- setting the camera to CL
- if the camera can't acquire focus fast enough between two shots (and is set to focus priority).
 
That's sad, but it's the way it is. And as you mentioned, it will get better with upcoming cameras. A workaround for #2 is to release the shutter and half-press it again.
I think this is one of the compromises we have to make right now, to either have a responsive pure optical path but with a mirror, more bulk, weight and no exposure preview, or the mirrorless way with lag, but higher framerates.
Let's hope future mirrorless cameras will overcome this issue.

Easy, stay away from the shower for about four weeks, sleep in your closes, keep the same clothes on for four weeks as well and pack your stuff in something like this and you'll be perfectly safe.
 

 
Everything else is just fooling yourself.
 
Pay attention to your surroundings, use a bag that closes with a non-simple mechanism and don't dress like a complete dork and you are about as safe as all the other tourists that will roam the same streets. 
 
Just one thing: it's not the bag that attracts attention, it's YOU. 

I don't think I lust after new gear 
If anything I am lusting for the good old days !
Its Paris tomorrow and I will be taking the XP2 , then I will see if it can earn its keep

Best advice I can give you, limit your lenses down to 2, maybe 2 lenses and add the 27 to go with you. Anything more is going to need more decent bag unless you do not mind lens stacking nor having them jiggle all in your bag.
 
As for the bag itself, you will be best served by converting a regular bag into a camera bag. Steal some padding here and there from your camera bags and make it a bit better for your camera and lens.
 
But if you want to add the bottle, the gorillapod, the umbrella along a rain coat for the bag, it's going to scream "I got stuff inside!". Plus most of the pickpocket are able to detect a tourist from a local from a glance. The thing that will make you out is the clothes. If you aren't dressing at local shops, you will stand out from the locals at lot more.
 
Rather than trying to find a bag that will make you fit in, pay more attention to your surroundings, if you look alert, keep a certain distance from the anyone unknown, no matter how nice/pretty/innocent they look should already be something.
A simple "I don't know, I can not help you" goes a very long way to keep your gear safe.
Avoid any kind of external sign of wealth, that means ANY jewelry, even your wedding ring stays at home or in a bank's safe, simple clothes, I personally like to pack clothes only for the first and last day and buy what I need locally. And pick practical stuff over design and look.
Travel light during your visit, leave most of what you don't need at the hotel rather than with you. Everything you need should fit into a single bag, no more than that.
Keep photocopies of your passport, leave the real document in the hotel and take the copies with you, make several of them if needed, it's cheap and still worth it as official document should you be in a pinch. Make copies of outside and inner page with your ID picture and if you have a VISA in there, copy it too.
 
If you are not traveling alone and setup a very simple rule of never watching in the same direction. With my wife, we always watch in opposite direction while standing next of each other, if we are being approached, I pass my stuff to her and turn around so she is clearly within my view and don't get whatever map/paper they would be holding in my face. Even better if we can find a nice wall to block anything from coming from behind us.
 
Those are my rules and they work for me as I travel to Asia around once a year.

Best advice I can give you, limit your lenses down to 2, maybe 2 lenses and add the 27 to go with you. Anything more is going to need more decent bag unless you do not mind lens stacking nor having them jiggle all in your bag.
 
As for the bag itself, you will be best served by converting a regular bag into a camera bag. Steal some padding here and there from your camera bags and make it a bit better for your camera and lens.
 
But if you want to add the bottle, the gorillapod, the umbrella along a rain coat for the bag, it's going to scream "I got stuff inside!". Plus most of the pickpocket are able to detect a tourist from a local from a glance. The thing that will make you out is the clothes. If you aren't dressing at local shops, you will stand out from the locals at lot more.
 
Rather than trying to find a bag that will make you fit in, pay more attention to your surroundings, if you look alert, keep a certain distance from the anyone unknown, no matter how nice/pretty/innocent they look should already be something.
A simple "I don't know, I can not help you" goes a very long way to keep your gear safe.
Avoid any kind of external sign of wealth, that means ANY jewelry, even your wedding ring stays at home or in a bank's safe, simple clothes, I personally like to pack clothes only for the first and last day and buy what I need locally. And pick practical stuff over design and look.
Travel light during your visit, leave most of what you don't need at the hotel rather than with you. Everything you need should fit into a single bag, no more than that.
Keep photocopies of your passport, leave the real document in the hotel and take the copies with you, make several of them if needed, it's cheap and still worth it as official document should you be in a pinch. Make copies of outside and inner page with your ID picture and if you have a VISA in there, copy it too.
 
If you are not traveling alone and setup a very simple rule of never watching in the same direction. With my wife, we always watch in opposite direction while standing next of each other, if we are being approached, I pass my stuff to her and turn around so she is clearly within my view and don't get whatever map/paper they would be holding in my face. Even better if we can find a nice wall to block anything from coming from behind us.
 
Those are my rules and they work for me as I travel to Asia around once a year.

Medium is everything between 35 mm (36 mm x 24 mm) and large format (102 mm x 127 mm or 4" x 5"). The most used medium format film was 6x6 (60 mm x 60 mm). And 6x6 is what I would expect from a digital medium format camera.

I sure hope not ! It would have costed 9000€ body only and would have to mortage your first born to get a couple of lenses...
 
Leica is still a prestigious name but please let them stay as far away from my Fuji gear for as long I draw breath.

Let me get back to cameras themselves you give you my personal opinion what I use for what and what I think the advantages or disadvantages with specific models are. You can then think about whether any of that applies to you and whether it is something you have already considered or haven't yet but shouldn't.
 
Image Quality
 
Let's get that out of the way first, unless you regularly remove 30% of the pixels through cropping, you aren't going to see an improvement with the 24MP over the 16MP sensors. 
 
There are minuscule differences between ISO performance, detail resolution and dynamic range that are completely and utterly irrelevant for day to day use. Even blowing up a 16 and a 24MP photo to 1m x 1.5m print, you'll be hard pressed to see a difference. The lens choice makes more of a difference than the pixel count.
 
The additional Acros film simulation that everybody raves about is awesome, but again irrelevant if you want to truly get the best out of your images and therefore process raws with strong local exposure adjustments like gradients or other tools in Lightroom that allow you to widely change exposure in part of your photo. The raw just has more data than the JPEG and while the JPEGs actually do have an astounding leverage, they aren't as versatile as the raws.
 
Weight
 
By and large, the weight gain of a 100g to 150g or so from one end of the spectrum (X-Pro2/X-T1) to the other (X-T10/X-E2) are again, completely irrelevant. The weight is in the number and type of lenses you are planning to carry. There are the (comparatively) huge pro zooms (16-55, 50-140, 100-400) which are very large and heavy for mirrorless camera lenses, there are the mid-sized, but very, very good and fast lenses (16, 23, 56, 90) that are really on par with any L lens I've ever tried and there are the compacts, which are also pretty much in their own weight/price/quality class (14, both 35s, 60, 18-55). 
 
Depending on your shooting style you may or may not know what focal lengths are working for you. If you do know, pick the ones you know you'll like and just consider weight and size as well when picking between close contenders (like 14 vs. 16, 18 vs. 23, 56 vs. 60). 
 
Again, you determine the weight and size more by how many lenses you pack and which line of lenses you pick. The camera body is nearly irrelevant there.
 
Camera Size
 
What a lot of people miss is that the small camera bodies of mirrorless cameras have unique challenges in terms of haptic and ergonomics. Hands and fingers and thumbs have a certain size and need a certain space to operate comfortably. Personally I find the X-T1 layout quite cramped although I get along fine with it nowadays, I wish it was a little bit bigger and had the general layout of the new X-Pro2 but with a grip even more pronounced and deeper than the X-T1 has. 
 
I use my X-T1 with a permanently attached ArcaSwiss plate from Really Right Stuff, that gives the camera the necessary height so I can grip it comfortably with my full hand and don't have fingers hanging out in the air. The X-Pro2 doesn't need that, but for me it needs a real front grip. The X-E2 is awesome with the Fuji Metal Hand Grip, the same is true for the X100T, I have not tried the X-T10 with a grip. 
 
Quick impressions:
X-T1 – very good for me with the ArcaSwiss plate permanently attached X-Pro1/2 – very good, but gets a bit large with the extra grip attached which I want as the camera's front grip isn't great X-E2 – great, but only with the Fuji Metal Hand Grip, without that, I dislike the handling of the camera X100T – great, but only with a Metrocase grip or the Fuji Metal Hand Grip, without these I dislike the handling of the camera even more than X-E2 X-T10 – too small for me, might be okay with additional handgrip, although I find the body overall to be too small So, pick your poison. Pick a small body with the potential need of adding a bulky grip, or pick a larger not quite ergonomic model that you have to make really bulky if it doesn't for you without a grip or pick a midsized model, add a grip or not. 
 
In daily use the size differences don't matter to people seeing you with the camera, don't think you are more or less conspicuous with a smaller camera, certainly as soon as you add a bulky lens like the 16mm that is completely gone.
 
Body Style
 
I find the SLR style bodies work better for me as I am left eye dominant and I keep my face slightly angled to the camera with my nose not touching the rear screen of my X-T1 at all but being in contact with my right thumb sometimes. No big deal, there is enough space there for me to work comfortably. 
 
Over time I have trained myself to be able to shoot with my right eye as well, but the rangefinder style does have some downsides for me. The EVFs are smaller, I love the huge EVF on the X-T1. And often enough I just pick up the camera put it my face and have smashed my nose against the screen because I put it to my left eye. Remember, left eye dominant here. Never a problem with the X-T1/X-T10.
 
Also, on the X100T as well as the X-Pro series, one of the big issues I have is that I get fingerprints on the front element of the viewfinder which makes the view slightly "fuzzy" or "milky". The effect is actually quite pronounced which surprised me. I don't have the problem much since I added a quite big grip to the X100T, but before that it would happen ALL the time. Very annoying. 
 
My personal expectation is that the X-T2 will get a little bigger to deal better with heat management when 4k video arrives. It will pick up most of the internal changes of the X-Pro2, except the viewfinder of course and will hopefully go to an ever better EVF panel with higher resolution. The increased body size will make a stronger distinction between X-T10 and X-T2 than there is today, which personally I find acceptable as it allows for a more ergonomically sound button and grip placement. 
 
X-T1 vs. X-T2
 
The difference between the two will not be nearly as big as the differences between X-Pro1 and X-Pro2. X-Pro1 has been around for four years, it's a first generation product. X-T1 is a second (or even 2.5 if you account for the not-quite-there X100S) generation product. Going from second generation to third generation won't be as much of a step as from first to third. Therefore, it's likely not a step that will bring lots of benefits for users of current cameras, but can be an interesting one if you can wait out the release of the X-T2 and pick the then new camera generation.
 
As mentioned above, image quality won't matter too much for still images, video will likely be a larger distinction if that matters to you. Personally I find 4k video in cameras like the ones we are discussing here, completely useless as the resolution increase brings too many downsides with it: long processing times in post, lots of storage needed, heat management in camera, not many places where you can actually watch 4k video. 
 
Personally I think if you want a camera for video, there are better choices in non-Fuji land.
 
AF performance and general speed will be increased, but overall it won't be a revelation compared to what people have been used to on DSLRs for nearly a decade now. It's great to get, but not worth the upgrade from X-T1 to X-T2, again, just my personal opinion.
 
X-Pro2 vs. other X
 
Given it has the latest tech if the body style suits you and you actually like the OVF (I don't), there is no question, the X-Pro2 is a great camera. But it is kind of a geek camera with the OVF that isn't really great with a lens wider than 18mm or longer than 35mm. The captured frame is either bigger than what you see in the OVF or the frame visible is a really small square in the middle, even with the OVF magnification. I wish Fuji had added a third magnification level to allow 60 and/or 90mm lenses to use more than a small area of the OVF. 
 
Other than that I think the X-Pro2 has the best button and control layout by far from all the X cameras. Part of this is due to available space on the larger body, another part is a good balance between physical controls for the full exposure triangle (aperture, shutter speed, ISO) while leaving other functions to dedicated buttons or Fn buttons. The X-T1 brings it a bit too far with suboptimal implementation on a slightly too small body for the number of controls, the X-E and X-T10 style bodies have less dedicated controls again. So overall, I'd give the nod for buttons and controls to the X-Pro2 and hope that Fuji will bring some of that to the X-T2. Although I won't hold my breath there as I believe they'll still end up with suboptimal implementation and too many controls for the body size. But okay, that's something you can get used to.
 
Regarding sensor and processor, I believe the newer processor gives a bigger gain than the new sensor. It speeds up everything the camera does and makes it more snappy and the new firmware and menu styling allows for some more intuitive handling. While the sensor is nice, it's no revelation compared to what has been around in competing cameras for a while, it merely brings Fuji up to par in terms of APS-C resolution with other manufacturers. Which, by itself, is a good thing, but I don't consider it crucial. The speed increase of the processor is much more crucial, especially to owners of the first generation X-Pro1 or X-E1 cameras than anything the sensor does.
 
Packed Space Requirements
 
One thing often overlooked is the requirement in packed space. An X-Pro2 packs actually slightly more compact than an X-T1. This might only affect people like me with a certain style/size in bags, but it's something to consider. The X-T1 "EVF hump" in addition with the ArcaSwiss base makes the X-T1 not fit in one of my preferred camera bags (Billingham Hadley Small) the way I want it, meaning sideways. Sure I can squeeze it in, bulging the bag, but I don't consider that a great solution. Therefore the Hadley Small is used for X100T and sometimes X-E2, but never for X-T1 based kits. I use a larger Hadley Pro for the X-T1 kit and like that sized bag for some other reasons as well. It really just depends on what I'm doing.
 
And a big one (for me): Eye Point
 
I frigging hate that Fuji has put such a small rear element on X100 and X-Pro series cameras. It means you have to get your eye really close to the viewfinders rear opening to see the full frame. With my Silhouette glasses that's not possible for me. With my other style glasses it works but I still have to "smash" the glasses against the rubber eye relief to see the viewfinder properly and I plain dislike that. The much longer eyepoint on X-T1 and X-E2 works a lot better for me. Especially the X-T1 with the large magnification, big rear element and long eye point combined with the long eye cup (accessory) is a joy to use even with glasses. I tend to use the rear display of the X100T much more than on any other camera with a viewfinder I have owned so far, plain because the viewfinder doesn't work well for me. 
 
Long term outlook (pure guesswork)
 
My guess is that Fuji will distinguish the bigger and more expensive bodies over time more from the smaller and less expensive bodies than they have so far. Just think about it: the difference between X-T10 and X-T1 are basically weather sealing, larger EVF and more physical controls. That's it. But the X-T1 costs nearly twice as much. 
 
It could be that Fuji sticks to 16MP sensors and other cheaper components for the time being while the X-T2 and X-Pro2 will stay ahead for some time. That could mean software features as well as hardware features. It's the difficulty for a small company to work a market with quite a wide span in terms of technical requirements, price desires and overall hype for new things. 
 
 
So, maybe the above rant helped a little bit. I had some time sitting in a hotel waiting for my flight to leave, so I was able to write this all down. Whether it applies to you or not – only you can decide.

An update......
Having spent a couple of days with the M9 its really not for me !
Yes I can focus easily and quickly 
Yes I appreciate the build quality 
 
BUT !!
 
Seriously the final images are in my opinion not good enough and I feel the fuji is a way better better in all sorts of ways
 
I printed work on my normal Hahnemuhle paper and compared with my fuji work 
I showed it to some clients and colleagues and they all chose the fuji prints 
 
So its gone back and have apologised to my collection of fuji cameras for daring to cross the line
 
I am glad that I have had this experience and relived my days of M6 and M7 but for me Leica digital is having a bit of a laugh !

Why would you have made a bad choice there ? You obviously know your way around a camera and if the M9 pleases you and you have the money to spare for it, why not pick it up and enjoy it ?

Leica has always been regarded as some kind of good/great company, but lately they seems to have lost their touch, nothing they released after the M9 is worth much excitement, the Q is an okay camera, the M240 is just plain.
They are still very nice to you for those that can appreciate rangefinders and the lens are still silky smooth to focus with, but really nothing major, nor impressive was released Leica for a good while now.

I think this is kind of backwards. Without seeing comparisons of what you need recommending either an X-Pro1 or X-Pro2 or a Leica M for that matter is totally useless. If you are having a G.A.S. attack so be it and I think that's what's actually going on. 
 
Regarding the results: post pictures of what you like and comparisons from your X-T1 and it might be possible to give some hints. If you run into waxy skin, shoot raw, done. If you don't like some of the color/sharpness/noise reduction – shoot raw, define a personal preset of the setting as you want them to be and you're done. All without having to invest hundreds of dollars in new camera gear.
 
Sorry to say, but everybody who really thinks that going from one camera generation to the next will improve their images is day dreaming. To improve your images there are much simpler and much harder things to do: take better photos, learn to use your gear right, do proper post. That applies to all of us I believe, not a rant towards you.
 
Now, if this is just an excuse to get more Fuji gear: go for it. Everything that sells gear for Fuji is good for all of us ...

There is also the very good Super Takumar Macro 50mm F4, also nicknamed 'lil wonder. A lot more pricier but still below anything on the XF lineup

this shows, once again, that photographs, just like any other form of real art, shouldn’t aim at reaching an illusory form of technical perfection but they are worth as much as the emotions which they are able to awaken in our souls.
 
If one isn’t moved by this other WPP picture... then I don’t know what would! You could have taken this picture with any decent camera. John Coltrane the great saxophonist said, you can play a shoestring, if you are sincere!
 
http://edition.cnn.com/2016/02/18/world/gallery/world-press-photo-contest-2016/

Damn you people, now you made go and post up a picture!  Hope you're happy!

Glee with happiness!

Third option: samyang 12mm

That is quite normal in AF-C, the camera is expecting some moving subject, thus if you stay still you are confusing the AF in what you are trying to achieve.