MrSteveVee

Apparently not, if you go to the upgrade option on Capture one site, it will check your registered registration key (for express version) and states that there are no upgrades available Steve

You first need to determine if it is the camera or the lens that is not working, it may be that the camera cannot change the lens aperture setting correctly, or, the lens aperture itself is not working correctly. You therefore need to run tests in manual mode. Set the ISO, set the aperture, then adjust the speed in increments for each shot and observe the results. Now do the same for a set ISO and set speed adjusting the lens aperture in increments and observe the results, that will prove if the camera speed adjustments are at fault or the lens aperture settings are at fault, if both work correctly then it points to an incompatibility between the camera and lens for auto adjustments.

Hiya. My thoughts that may help a bit #1: Pretty dull, I personally would dump this one #2: Interesting pic. I wonder if a slightly changed viewpoint to show a bit more of the scene that the monk is contemplating would enhance the Image more #3: Again not that interesting for me. I went back to this several times to see if it kindled any better interest but sorry, no. #4: I rather liked this one. The bowed head slowly trudging to church with the cross showing just near, but the composition is a bit off tho. Maybe slightly lower and panned more right to cut out that distracting building and tree on the left? #5: I like this one. The simplicity and sparseness. Matbe a slightly tighter crop to remove the door handle showing on the right and the starting of the second cross on the left might improve it? #6: Not as good as 5 but ok. If you had panned 2 inches more to the left so that you had not cut into the alter cloth it would look better. I would also play with cropping the top to see if removing one or two of the lights works better as well however it may not if it affects the cross too much. If at all possible I would see if I could re-take this image next visit but from a lower perspective and standing more to the left, then I would crop the windows out to make a panoramic type of image to see how that looked #7: Another one that I would personally dump. #4 was far more powerful. Also the tree does not help it rather hinders it #8: looks like an image taken from a car window. Again, not one that I would personally keep. If the idea was to show the church/monument? isolation, you need to be the other side of that fence' Hope that helped some, it will be interesting to see some more images when you next visit. If so, try to put them together so that they are telling a story Steve

Haha touché'! I used Nikons from the Film days up into Digital too. I used my old Faithfull D200/D300 for many years with some nice weighty lens including a couple of years pro work with them. When I hit the big 60 My loving Bruv got me an X-pro1 at a fantastic price as the pro-2 was on the way. I've not touched the old Nikons since.

Compatible Cameras X RAW STUDIO Compatible Cameras FUJIFILM GFX 50S Ver.2.00 or later FUJIFILM X-T2 Ver.3.00 or later FUJIFILM X-Pro2 Ver.4.00 or later*1 FUJIFILM X100F Ver.2.00 or later*1 *1 Compatible firmware for FUJIFILM X-Pro2 and X100F will be available in December 2017.

Wow you must have come down with a bang. Hope your all right matey Steve V

Hmm there is a possibility that the lens has been dropped and something is not quite in line, that could cause some of your problems, the pro1 could have an issue but they re pretty tough beasts. The prof will come when your other lens turns up. I know you said that you was using defaults, I assume you checked that the camera was not set up in an odd way by the previous owner. Personally I would suspect the lens, but that would not account for noise. Most strange as the pro1 does give very good pics.

Hiya. I do not have the XT-1 so cannot answer directly on how to achieve focus back button but if I generalise you should get the idea of what it means. As a general rule, most digital cameras shutter release is set to do three functions. As you press the shutter button it will focus, take a light reading and finaly fire the shutter. Now some people like to have these three functions (or some, or a combination) done as seperate tasks rather than all grouped together. So depending on the sophistication of the camera, there may be customisable options that allow these functions to be re-assigned. Back button focus: Another button on the camera is assigned to be the focus button. Therefore when the Shutter release is pressed, it will no longer focus the camera, to focus the camera a seperate button must be pressed. Usage: To focus on the prime subject then move the camera where you wish and take shot after shot without the camera trying to focus each time. Very useful if you was doing birds in flight, press the focus when you know the bird is in the frame so the camera is not trying to lock onto everything other than the bird. I use this a lot on my Nikon Cameras AFL: Auto Focus Lock. The Focus is locked until the shutter is fired. Depending on the cusomisation allowed may be set as a press and hold or switch on/off Usage: To allow re-composition without the need to hold down the shutter button. I am sure there are a lot of other uses but personally I never use this so I cannot add more AEL: Exposure Lock. The exposure is locked and will not change until the shutter is pressed. Depending on the cusomisation allowed may be set as a press and hold or switch on/off Usage: Take a light reading of prime concern then recompose to shoot. I use this option a lot on my Niko Cameras AFL/AEL often these buttons are one and the same. Most annoying as they should be separate in my opinion . I always configure my cameras for AEL only (exposure) as I use the back button to ffocus so do not need focus lock Therefore if you are interested, on my Nikon Camera I will compose the shot how I want it, move the sensor to the prime exposure position, half press to take a light reading then AEL lock the reading now I move the sensor to the prime focus point, press the back focus to focus it, then lastly I press the shutter to fire, I may then change metering/focus points and fire off another several more shots etc. I use this a lot for interiors. X-Pro1: The AFL/AEL button is also the back focus button so I cannot set this camera up like my Nikons. That's a bit annoying but as I do not need back focus botton that much on this camera for my uses I just set it to AEL lock only Final note, this is just generalisation so that you can understand what the buttons are for, some people use different techniques and therefore done need or use them this way, The best thing is to have a play about, change settings and get to understand how these functions work then see how they best fit with your shooting style Hope this helps Steve V

Looks like it was a good day out with everyone having great fun. I like the last action shot, good timing, but the star of the three is the first one. Excellent shot of one tired but determined athlete, nice set.

I've been a Nikon user for many years, I don't upgrade often and I am current using and still enjoying the D300. However I have always wanted a rangefinder and last year when the prices dropped and the offers were out for for the X-Pro1 and 2 lens combo I purchased one along with a flash to compliment it. Great little camera I was blown away with how well the high ISO was compared to my older camera and as such, found that I hardly ever used the flash as the images are just so good at higher ISO. Later I found a tutorial that explained how the OVF should be used, wow brilliant, reminds me of my 127 film camera days many years back, love it. I now use the OVF almost all the time. So the other night I was playing with some settings and taking shots of my poor obliging wife who is so used to it that she just carried on watching the Olympics - lol. I decided to have a play with the flash again, loaded it up, pointed the flash down towards wife with diffuser attached, took aim and BAM OMG! someone just fired a super nova into my eye! Ahhh I had a massive white blotch image in my retina for ages! and finished watching the olympics squinting with one eye like a pirate! Haha couldn't stop laughing, big lesson learned, dont use the flash with the OVF!!

Cool works a treat for the Pro1, Many thanks Steve V

As far as an aware you cannot fire the xpro1 with a USB connected cable, it is a mechanical shutter release and you need to screw a cable release into the shutter button Steve

I too had lots of problems with the OVF abd gave up and used the EVF instead until I read this article: http://vopoku.com/fujifilm-ovf-focusing/ Once I understood how it worked I liked it and now use it most of the time. Sure its not 100% accurate but once you know what the basic limitations are and how it all works its great for composing Steve V

My Pro1 does the same, looks like it's not improved much on the Pro2 then! Steve V

That looks pretty neat, well done. Looks like you have a new sideline now lol Steve V