Maksim

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We need RAW histogram in our cameras for ETTR. It seems that JPEG histogram is inaccurate by a stop, but it is really hard not to overexposure the image this way. I was getting my best images right before the point of saturation, when JPEG looked slightly overexposed.

Once I had to stay 1.5 months in Kolkata, India, where the humidity was off the charts, worse than what I have seen even in Florida. I remember my glasses turning completely white from the condensation every time I was leaving the hotel. The air itself was soaked in water. First of all, changing lenses in this environment would be suicidal for modern camera. But even if the lens stays put on, you need WR, and you still need to put your camera in a plastic bag when you leave air conditioned room. And even after these precautions I would not be surprised if something would corrode after prolonged use in your camera.

This lens may get a free OIS upgrade when Fuji will make IBIS available in XT3. Imagine taking pictures with XF 90mm at 1/60 second - this would be the perfect SS for most events (anything slower would introduce motion blur with moving people anyway).

Please ignore this unless you specifically want to keep the EF X-20 on camera. Otherwise, get a Canon compatible TTL sync cord and detach the flash from the camera. With all honesty, the side light will look better and the lens will not cast a shadow. Also, if you are Ok to lose TTL, look at a tiny radio triggers, such as FlashQ, or cheap, but versatile radio flash FlashQ Q20. I use this little thing when I need portability. It takes at most 2 attempts to get the shot right without TTL.

Maybe it is not worth waiting? I had 18-135 and it was a total disappointment until I sold it.

I am sorry - the web site was slow and the same message got posted twice. Please ignore this.

I have both 16mm and 10-24mm. Both lenses are sharp and optically excellent. I use 16mm in tough lighting conditions because of its bright aperture. I have used it to photograph the night sky and stars. With that being said, 10-24mm is my first choice for landscapes, travel and everything else. 10mm view of this lens turns even boring pictures into something special. 16mm can't do that... I am in love with ultra-wides and even got a fisheye, which is the ultimate fun lens.

B&H reimbursed 100% cost of my grey market LG phone, two months short of a full year. I assume that they would do the same for a camera. The question is if Fuji would be willing to service the camera after a year, on a paid basis. For instance, Nikon used to refuse any service for grey market gear in the past, although they changed their policies for D750 recently. I did not have a chance to hear how Fuji handles that.

I am also traveling soon. I was going to bring: a. 18-135mm b. 16mm (for low light) c. 10.5mm fish eye (to spice it up a bit and because it can serve as a regular rectilinear utra wide lens). But I am still debating whether it is a good idea to lug 18-135mm. I might replace it with 35mm f1.4.