I just acquired a used Tokina 100mm f 2.8 D macro lens, and shooting macro for the first time for me, I was impressed by the lens. Used it on an Xt2 with adapter.
No doubt I need practice.! -g-
I'd have to take issue with this. Almost any handheld photography would benefit from some form of stabilisation, particularly in low light situations. This is not my opinion, it is my experience. I do quite a lot of theatre, concert and candid photography and this is where IBIS is useful. Yes, I know it won't stop subject movement blur and yes I know that architectural or landscape photographers won't have much use for it. I know that some simply don't want IBIS, but for those of us who do low light, hand held photography, using prime lenses, it is essential.
I'm usually happy with Fotasy products too.
This time, the adapter wasn't great for two reasons:
The lens doesn't screw smoothly as if the adapter was a tad too small. Because of point #1, the lever on the side with the tip shape makes unscrewing the lens quite uncomfortable.
But this is the first case over probably other 30 adapters.
I've got two Nikon adapters, one from Amazon one off eBay.
Amazon.com : Fotasy AFNK Nikon Lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter : Camera & Photo - https://goo.gl/myzdsK
New Mount Lens Adapter Ring for Nikon AI F to Fuji Fujifilm x Pro1 XPRO1 FX USA | eBay - http://goo.gl/Ow3G8U
I really like the one from eBay, works much better.
Hello everyone, first time poster here. I shoot pretty much exclusively with old 35mm manual focus lenses and have done so for many years now. I can definitely say that they are worth using from both a creative and cost effective point of view.
The issue of adapting lenses is really quite simple. Does a lens, be it a new auto focus model or older manual lens, give you what you need to create the shot or vision you are attempting to capture? If the answer is yes then use the lens. It doesn't matter where it was made, or if it was made yesterday or 50 years ago.
Now if you are a professional photographer shooting paid work for a client then it is critical you choose the right gear. You will probably see most working photogs using modern auto focus glass that has full functionality with their camera body. This is to be expected since speed is life and AF will help nail shots in critical focus right when you need it. On the other hand, there are plenty of other pros out there using older adapted glass when speed is not as important or when an older lens is lending a desired creative effect to the work being captured.
Where you will see much more use of adapted lenses is in the work of non professional photographers and this makes a lot of sense. When you are shooting work/art for yourself (or family/friends) they you have a lot more lee way to slow down and make mistakes while making the capture. And please don't take this in any way as a slam to non pro photogs. I myself firmly fall into this category with only a few small paying jobs under my belt. That is simply not why I shoot photography. It is a common misconception that the goal of photography is to become a professional photographer and nothing could be further from the truth. The goal of photography is to create a compelling image that moves the human soul, or to document something in a visual format.
With that in mind it makes sense for non pro photographers to adapt old lenses to their cameras so that they have access to some really wonderful glass, at a fraction of the cost of their modern equivalents. Keep in mind that almost all of the great photographs from all the masters in the 20th century were taken on manual focus film lenses. In the hands of an experienced photographer the lens and camera simply become a tool for the creative process happening in the brain. But it is to easy in this internet forum discussion age to forget this fact and focus instead on the small differences in gear both old an new. People have a desire to min/max everything and will spend countless hours 'discussing' the perfect lens when in fact no such thing exists.
I guess the point of all this is....it doesn't matter which camera you hold in your hand. It doesn't matter when the lens you are using was made or who it was made by. It doesn't matter if focus is achieved by a small electric motor and a computer or by the fingers on your hand gripping old worn metal knurls. What matters is the image you create. Is it pleasing to you? Has your art been made manifest? If it is paid work then is your client happy with it?
These are just some examples of my art over the last few years. I currently shoot with a Sony A7 and previously with a NEX 7. You might think it odd that a Sony shooter is posting on a Fuji site, but as I said before the name on the box really doesn't matter as long as it is providing what you need. While I do love my A7 I almost purchased the X-T1 instead when it came out and there was much deliberation between the two before the purchase was made. Having said that I am still giving Fuji a hard look at a possible replacement for my Sony gear. There are several things about the X line that I find intriguing and to be honest I miss using the Metabones Speedbooster for my nex 7 and I believe the Fuji cameras are an excellent body to use as a platform for the SB.
If you like you may view my A7 files that have many more examples of manual focus lenses here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/8539414@N07/sets/72157641534772013
And for examples of the Speedbooster on my NEX 7 you may go here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/8539414@N07/sets/72157633126249795
I hope the information here helps someone. If you want to try old lenses then I can heartily recommend it. Don't be afraid to try and don't get caught up in the search for gear. By all means educate yourself on the lens choices available but don't let the pursuit of gear be the driving force of excitement in your photography. Just remember that it is the image that is important. Only this and nothing more.
In this case I'd go for the X-T10, which has a full auto mode with scene recognition. The X-E2 has not this feature, but the X-E2S has it. Keep in mind: the X-T10 has a tilt screen.
Regarding the lenses, for architecture I can recommend the 14mm (which is optically corrected and basically distortion free). As a second lens I'd go for a 35mm (F2 or F1.4). A pretty flexible focal length and good to photograph people, too.
If you go for a zoom lens, I'd recommend the XC16-50 over the XF18-55, because the additional 2mm on the wide end can be handy when shooting archtecture.
If you need better video features, you have to go for the X-TransIII + X-Processor Combo we find in the X-Pro2. The X-T20 will get that, too... but I don't know yet when they will release it... it might be some time in 2017.
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