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perfis

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Posts posted by perfis

  1. Handy! For example when customising the Fn buttons and the Q menu it is useful to know which functions can be assigned to the Q menu and which have to be assigned to an Fn button. I made that list myself but have not seen it printed anywhere else.

  2. Easy. In shooting mode press and hold the Disp/Bck button until the screen shows all of the function buttons with their settings and locations. Highlight any of them and press the Menu/OK button to access the (many) choices you have for setting the function, including None.

     

    I guess we all have our preferred set of settings. For the front wheel I choose ISO which makes it easy to control ISO when looking in the viewfinder. In certain situations it has two other distinct advantages.

     

    The first is if you are shooting in Program mode you can use the front wheel to change all three parameters of exposure: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. If dynamic range is NOT set to auto turning the wheel changes the combination of aperture and shutter speed, pressing and turning it changes ISO, all very easy to do while looking through the viewfinder.

     

    The second is that you can change the auto ISO settings when you operate ISO this way, something you can't do if you use the quick menu to change ISO. In that case you would have to go into the Menu system to change auto ISO settings, which is much more cumbersome.

    Per

  3. Your EVF light meter tells you how many stops you are off the mark. Just change the ISO setting accordingly. F.ex. if the meter says you are about to underexpose 1 2/3 stops, adjust the ISO setting up f.ex. from 800 to 2500 or from 400 to 1250. No need for guessing or switching back and forth to check if you have set it right.

     

    And yes, ISO can be assigned to a function button. You can also assign it to any of the positions on the Q menu. I use both. I like the Q menu to show me the settings I find most important, including ISO. So I can see and change the ISO setting via the Q menu.

    However In my opinion there's a distinct advantage to assigning ISO to the front wheel and changing ISO by turning the wheel. Pressing the wheel enables you to choose the ISO value by turning the wheel, but it also enables you to change the settings for the three automatic ISO modes, something you cannot do from the Q menu. I use this to quickly change the maximum ISO value in automatic mode.

     

    I've had my X-T10 for a month and an X-M1 for almost two years. Although in many ways similar (notably the sensor and the lenses of course) the X-T10 is a much more manually oriented camera, which makes it much more fun and powerfull to shoot with.

  4. Obviously the shutter speed dial should be set to anything else but Auto.

    The command dial on the back of the camera becomes your aperture selector. The Auto position is reached by turning - not pressing - it to the right as far as necessary until the aperture number disappears. Confusingly you can turn it further to the right without anything further happening. Never mind, press the Menu button and verify that the title says Shutter Priority AE.

     

    If you now turn the command dial to the left you activate aperture selection and enter manual mode. Again you may verify this by pressing the menu button and it will say Manual. The screen display will show both shutter speed and aperture.

     

    If instead you turn the shutter speed dial to the Auto position you will enter Program mode (you can verify again with the menu button). In Program mode the display shows shutter speed and aperture. If ISO is set to Auto you can't change them, the camera will make the selection for you. If ISO is set to a fixed number however you can select another combination by turning (not pressing) the front dial. Combinations other than the one the camera would select are shown in yellow.

     

    If you now turn the backdial to the left you will enter Aperture Priority mode. You can verify again by pressing the menu button.

     

    I moved recently from X-M1 to X-T10. On the X-M1 there is a dedicated button position for each of these modes. On the X-T10 you have to memorise how to do it. It's not difficult but... The X-T10 is a much much more manually oriented camera than the X-M1.

  5. I also have the X-M1 and use somewhat different standard settings: Color 0 - sharpness +2 - highlight tone 0 - shadow tone 0 - noise reduction 0.

    I make heavy use however of the highlight and shadow tone settings depending on the situation. For very contrasty motives, for example a face photographed from below towards a bright sky I would set the highlight tone to -1 or probably -2 and the shadow tone to -1 or probably -2.

    Anyway, if you shoot RAW+JPEG - as I do - you can always produce a new jpeg picture afterwards by adjusting these parameters and see the effect on the screen immediately. Actually it's both fun, informative and effective.

    I doubt there is one set of settings that can universally be called the 'best', not even for just you or me. Much is depends on the situation.

  6. I got this lens as part of a kit containing the X-M1 and the two XC zoom lenses (all for just 530 €). I haven't yet upgraded the camera but will soon buy the X-T10 (for which I just acquired a second-hand 35mm f1.4). The long XC zoom lens is optically very good in my judgment, witness the zoo pictures by Marcelo Valente in this thread. Along the same lines I enclose pictures of a peregrine falcon (f10, 182mm, 1/420s, ISO 500) and a yawning lion in Copenhagen Zoo (f6.7, 230 mm, 1/170s, ISO 400). Zoom in and admire the majestic beauty of the falcon or check if His Majesty has a sore throat but remember the pictures have been heavily downsized. The OIS of the XC lens(es) also works well. X-M1 with XC lenses may be a modest combination but delivers excellent image quality.

    post-1319-0-99980000-1447113699_thumb.jpg

    post-1319-0-25227900-1447113713_thumb.jpg

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