romi.gilles

pics...

Minolta MC Rokkor 58mm F1.2 is pretty fast.

sorry if I've missed it, but is BavEyes the only reducer/booster for Leica M mount to Fuji X? it's a bit surprising Metabones hasn't come out with one.

I got the B+W Nano one as well. I like how water just repels off it as opposed to the non-Nano that just leaves a hard water mark and can sometimes be a pain to easily wipe off. the 49mm size is fairly cheap on Amazon. I try to avoid that NYC tax with B&H and Adorama.

the older Incase sling bags where the pockets were able to expand, I was able to have either an X100s/f with filter or an X-E1/2 body (with XF27 attached) and spare lens in the other pocket.

so I just picked up the Contax G 90mm. right away I could 'see' just how well images were looking as far as IQ goes, even wide open. I was able to check it out at B&H's used department before buying. I'm surprised it was considered an 8+. i got it for pretty cheap. I'm not much of a tele person, but given the price (much cheaper than the 21mm that I wanted next), its great optical quality and pocketable size (for a 90mm!!!), I just had to get it. I know it's out of your 50mm-80mm range, but I think it's still worth considering.

gotta add Contax G lenses to your list. I have the 45mm F2, and my, oh, my. there are two others in this trio - the 28mm and 90. I'm more of a wide angle person than a tele, but what I have been seeing from and reading about the 90mm on the X-trans sensor is nothing but awesomeness. they later came out with a 21mm and 35mm though not as sharp as the first three especially the 45mm. they are are pretty small lenses and so are the adapters. next best thing to Leica M mount lenses and their adapters as far as overall size factor goes. since you have the X-T2, they'd especially be great for video (from what I have been seeing).

i get the EVF switch lag on my GX7 as well, but no issues on my black X-E2. very annoying when i'm trying to quickly capture a shot but end up missing it especially when i'n not using a lens with the DOF scale. i get the issue where when using AF with my damaged 27mm, the lens locks up when the forward element is fully racked out and brings up the screen to shut the body off. (i did open it and repair what i could so the forward element no longer full pops out. but i can only use it in MF, now.) anyway, i can get out of that error screen by clicking on image preview then clicking out of it and it just goes back to capture mode. so, the used 18mm i bought had delivered last week and what a terrible feeling everything. the aperture ring had such a high torque to turn. i thought it was seized at first. while it was very tight at full stops, i almost thought there were no third stops in between - no notch feeling there. i usually fine focus manually with a single finger under the lens, but with this, i couldn't even do that. three-fourths of the focus rotation was so stiff in a grindy way - a metal-to-metal feel like when your brake pads run thin and the warning tabs grind on the rotor. and the rest of the rotation was somewhat smoother, so i knew the lens was obviously a lemon. on top of that, in certain angles under fluorescent light, i would get a very dark bronzish bar that ran across two-thirds or one-third of the image which was so weird. i couldn't replicate that with any of my other lenses or even with the new 18mm i just got today. luckily, i was able to return it to the seller to get my money back. i found another 18mm that was brand-new in the original packaging which includes Fuji's warranty (for better piece of mind) which was hardly a few dollars more than the lemon i got that was so bad i couldn't even make lemonade with. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

maybe because it was a technology/feature that was still new and not widely available? idk.. but if the Nikon F3 and Canon F1n were were part of the great majority of professional cameras you've used, well, they were pro level cameras that also introduced weathersealing. going back to film days, the meaning of 'professional' might not be the same for digital cameras of today or even between camera makers. we don't change heads like you can with a Nikon F2. and an all-black body was sometimes considered or many times was the only option for a professional/press model from some makers. yet, later when plastic bodies were being made, they were mostly all black anyway. these days (or even then with titanium versions and such), the option for black (or graphite silver) is merely a bling factor especially as far as what I've seen from Fuji. the black x100 was more than the silver (goodies or not), and the graphite silver X-T1 costs more than the black. yet, the X-T10 is the same price for either colour. things change. if you look at DSLRs from CaNikon, there was a time when only the higher-end pro models had full weathersealing. then mid-range models slowly started adding pro-features including partial weathersealing. things change. as far as Fuji and the X lineup goes, so far I think it's more like.. they have higher-end models and lower-end models, and the higher-end models just offer more professional-like features that's currently trending - if one camera maker offers it as a professional feature, they may add is as a professional feature as well especially if enough users are requesting it. that's my opinion, of course. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

or... Person C: i had to take a short run on Hwy 85 but ended up getting stuck in heavy traffic. Person D: gosh! i have to take Hwy 85 later. i hope i don't get stuck in traffic, too. also... Person A: my X-T1 has horrible nav buttons. Person B: i hope my pre-ordered X-T1 doesn't have horrible nav buttons, too. yes, you've got to love forums. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

i've never thought the white balance on Fujis to be that accurate (especially with reds and blues which is supposed to be expected) especially when compared to my Lumix. it amazes me at how accurate my Lumix gets colours (in sufficient light) to my eye. though with that being said, i still prefer the tones that the Fujis give. now IQ with Fuji's sooc jpgs.. well, that's another story as theirs are the best i've seen around. however, i do still shoot RAW no matter what. i've had a few pics being recirculated on other forums i was foreign to as someone else's, and that is one reason, among others (post), it's important to have the negative/s, so to say. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

i think the biggest thing with regards to 'professional' would be the weatherproofing, and possibly the higher burst rate. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

though i haven't used either of mine heavily, i hope i don't run into a similar issue especially with another 18mm i just picked up, used. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

have either of those lenses been used heavily? (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

AF improvements.. yay. (Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)