mqaa

I really don't like the idea of my sensor shaking like it is hit by an earth quack all the time. Adds extra moving parts and that always results in a shorter lifespan of the camera.

This old chesnut AGAIN.
 
Just get Capture one and be done with it Works for me, few hints for people worried about tranisitioning to C1
 
1) This is for Mike Photo's - note you can import your old LR catelogue into C1 and it will do its best to recreate and translate the settings and processing you had performed in LR, its not 100% and its can't do all settings but it gets damn close and is a great place to start from if you are revisiting an old shoot.
 
2) Use Workspaces, you can customize your workspace to be as you want it, I use this a lot and have a workspace with all my most used tools in one place, hugely powerful.
 
3) If you are unsure where to start with workspaces, look in the menu and you will find that there are some legacy workspaces, including a Lightroom one, load this and it configures Capture One to be as much like LR as possible to help you transition your workflow.
 
4) Use the excellent series of C1 videos on their website, I watched them all and was up and running with about 90% of what I wanted to do in a couple of days.
 
G

Hi, I've just entered this forum to see if someone had my same issue: without any previous alert, my xpro2 refuses to come to life. It worked great till a few days ago, now it's dead. I thought about a battery issue, but three different batteries couldn't help. My lovely camera is 13 month old.
Any idea?
 
Inviato dal mio SM-G935F utilizzando Tapatalk

Micro 4/3 sensor and ISO 1250, I would expect this level of noise. I limit iso to 800 with my Lumix if I want to retain fine detail.
 
With Fuji perhaps iso 3200 can be ok, unless you have the new medium format Fuji.

I tethered the XT-2 yesterday with LR. And it was the first time it didn't crash, bug out, or anything. It actually went very smoothly. I wonder if LR released an update or if it was just a fluke? 

Lots of people come to this forum because they have some kind of problem. Think most of the time it is user error, but some times it is a real issue. The same happens on other forums I do follow. So you tend to have a high problem to no problem ratio.
 
I really like my P2 and have no issues with it.

Lots of people come to this forum because they have some kind of problem. Think most of the time it is user error, but some times it is a real issue. The same happens on other forums I do follow. So you tend to have a high problem to no problem ratio.
 
I really like my P2 and have no issues with it.

Lots of people come to this forum because they have some kind of problem. Think most of the time it is user error, but some times it is a real issue. The same happens on other forums I do follow. So you tend to have a high problem to no problem ratio.
 
I really like my P2 and have no issues with it.

Lots of people come to this forum because they have some kind of problem. Think most of the time it is user error, but some times it is a real issue. The same happens on other forums I do follow. So you tend to have a high problem to no problem ratio.
 
I really like my P2 and have no issues with it.

Actually the frame rate of the XP2 is max 85fps. But why do you want this list? Two different cameras for different shooting styles. That is the reason to choose one over the other. Not the features it does or does not have.

And in the 30 secs the magic moment comes along and you mis it... Agree that it is not a real issue but it would be nice if the batteries lasted longer. Nice experiment!

Actually the frame rate of the XP2 is max 85fps. But why do you want this list? Two different cameras for different shooting styles. That is the reason to choose one over the other. Not the features it does or does not have.

Really? Did you give it a real try. Capture One is maybe not the most intuitive program out there but it is a great raw converter once you get to know it. The catalog stuff is very basic but the colour adjustments and sharpening is better than Lichtroom.

Maybe Kevin Mullins has some tips to speed things up a bit:
 
http://f16.click/tips/speed-up-lightroom-with-fuji-files.html

Except it doesn't tell people that they need to hold the trashcan button for around 3s before the function kicks in. Otherwise pressing trashcan and then command wheel will just bring up a live view (just as the command wheel by itself would do)
 
I was already cursing Fuji until I heard about the need to press the first button longer. (well, to be fair: I tend to be an early adopter and all other Fujis so far have had an issue or two that required an "extended vacation")

conventionally one or two pixels aren’t reason to replace but this might vary from brand to brand.
 
I always check and few years ago I had a Canon G10 which, when I checked revealed several hot or dead pixels. I sent it back to the shop which replaced it for a new copy.

I think I am having a problem with my OVF that is related to the issue of this thread. I have a non-Fuji 90mm lens attached to an X-Pro2 with Fuji's M-mount adaptor. The OVF shows not one but two brightline frames. Both are the same (correct) size but one is bright and has the "focus zone" box at its center, and the other frame is dimmer and offset from the brighter one by about 10 percent of the frame's dimensions. Both are sharp, one does not appear to be a stray reflection or something like that. The dimmer frame does not have a "focus zone" box associated with it.
 
When the camera is in landscape orientation the dimmer frame is to the right of and below the brighter frame by about 10%, and when the camera is in portrait orientation this means that the dimmer frame is now below and to the left of the brighter one. The dimmer frame gives the correct framing (the actual image is slightly bigger than what this frame shows but it is centered properly). In the portrait orientation, the brighter frame cuts off the top and shows more at the bottom and left side, just as Harold experienced.
 
Does anyone know why there are TWO brightline frames? Is there a way to fix this problem?
 
Ken Bures 

Tried it and it looks like it is slower when using the OVF with the little LCD in the bottom right. If I hide it then the OVF is as fast as the EVF.

Tried it and it looks like it is slower when using the OVF with the little LCD in the bottom right. If I hide it then the OVF is as fast as the EVF.

Tried it and it looks like it is slower when using the OVF with the little LCD in the bottom right. If I hide it then the OVF is as fast as the EVF.

A lot of people are reporting issues with their X-Pro2. There are also people that do not have any issue like me and don't report that.

I see that there's a really annoying method of formatting the cards, which is to go into the menu, go into camera settings, go into user settings, then select format, and format the cards one at a time.
 
The manual mentions a shortcut:
 
The format menu can also be displayed by pressing the center of the rear command dial while pressing and holding the  button.
 
I can't seem to get the shortcut to work for me, and of course we can't move Format to the My Menu, which was one of the things I was most excited about with that feature.   Is that shortcut working for everyone else and not me? There's so much customization possible with these cameras that it's entirely possible that I altered a setting that messed with it?