Dr.Nipun

The 56mm f1.2 is a special lens and is one of the finest portrait lenses I've ever used, I wouldn't part with mine :-)

I've had the 56mm since my X-T1 so I've never bothered with the 50mm. 
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I shoot weddings and the 56mm would stay on the X-T2 100% of the time if it were feasible.

One of the best pieces of advice I got was to determine what focal length you take the majority of your shots with and go buy that lens. And then use it exclusively for awhile until you get to know every aspect of it...until you can look at a scene and know exactly how your lens will frame that image. I've been a DX format DSLR shooter until recently exploring Fuji and found the 35mm length to be my go to lens.
 
If your unsure about focal length use your zoom for a couple months and take tons of photos. Then look at your image data and determine what focal length you seem to be using the most and there is your answer. If you're serious about photography buy the best lens you can even if it's a financial stretch. There is a cliche that I hold true...you date cameras but marry lenses. A good lens will last years and years long after your camera is old technology. I've bought 3rd party lenses to save money and always wished I would have just paid the extra cash for the real thing. One of Fuji's selling points are the awesome optics for the money. Don't get too infatuated with bokeh...photographers seem to be more critical of this than their paying customers.
 
Welcome to photography and enjoy.

I have sent email to Fujifilm Japan and the United Kingdom regarding the firmware improvement on Bracketing.  They did reply me politely stating my suggestion was received.

 

Maybe Fujifilm has people reading forums, but I think, we consumers should actively and directly contact Fujifilm to express our concern and improvement suggestion, one step further than discussing here.

 

Here is the screen capture of the email reply from Fujifilm UK

 

https://photos.googl...nl1d3hCVG1DdXN3

 

We can contact Fujifilm Japan and United Kingdom through these URL. The reason I am choosing the UK for feedback is that I believe it should be one of the big subsidaries.

 

Japan
https://contact.fuji...7900.1468139491
 
United Kingdom
https://contact.fuji...7900.1468139491

Actually I am still to gather the money. But yr suggestion is precise and will help me out for sure. Thanks. :-) 
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Personally, my favorite portrait lens is the Fuji 35mm f/1.4 because it's so versatile for other things and the images just have some kind of "magic" quality to them. You should be able to find a lot of used copies in good condition since a lot of people sold them for the f/2 version. I prefer the f/1.4, others prefer the f/2. I won't get into a debate on that because both are good.
 
However, I also own several Helios lenses that I bought from eBay that are fun to use. They are not the best (by far) and have flaws in everything that comes out of them, but they are unique and fun to use sometimes.
 
For adapters the most important thing I can say is to read the reviews before buying. On my Helios lenses there were a lot of adapters out there that people said would not allow infinity focusing. I didn't have to buy the most expensive adapter, but it was important to find one that had consistent, positive performance in the reviews. I'd suspect that is true for most adapted lenses.
 
Lastly, I would not wait and save for any rumored lenses from Fuji that do not have a set and announced release date. There are too many unknowns and potential disappointments. If you are ready to start shooting with it, stick with what is on the market now or what has an official release date. If something more appealing gets announced while you are saving, then switch your plan, but too many lenses get changed or canceled between the rumor and the announcement to build your plans around.

Dr. Nipun,
If you have not resolved your doubts yet, a legacy manual lens is a very attractive alternative. I use Canon FD lenses with the corresponding adaptor. They are quality optics, and while they aré inexpensive, there Is nothing "cheap" about them. Go for a 50mm F1:1,4, or a 85mm f1:1,8. they Willy give you equivalences to 75 and 127mm, which are ideal portrait focal lengths, plus the pleasure of manual handling.

The cheapest option is just to place more distance between your subject and your background. Even at f4, you'll get plenty of bokeh that way. Also, bokeh can be nice on occasion, but don't use it as a crutch. Be mindful of the background first, and only then focus on your subject when taking a portrait.

I took a quick portrait with the XF60 F/2.4 @ F/2.4, ISO 800, 1/180
 
The photo has not been cropped, the out of focus area is aprox 2 meters behind the person
 
DSCF9267 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr

not sure the perfect lens or photographer exists, as since it is art it is subjective

The 56 APD is a niche lens with far more downsides than advantages. Loss of PDAF, 1 T-stop, gain of slightly more DoF, higher price tag and a change in color reproduction are heavy hitters when compared to a slightly better bokeh (and only wide open and only when the situation allows the benefit to show.

Want bokeh? Go for the 35 1.4, rather than the 60 2.4 or the other manual lenses. Skip either of the manual lenses. If you want a semi-macro option, look at the 60 2.4.
 
Forget adapted solutions. If you buy a cheap adapter, you accept a compromise in image quality and most vintage lenses aren't all that good. By sticking a cheap adapter in the front, you reduce IQ even further. And a good adapter costs more than most vintage glass.
 
Stick to Fuji's own lenses. You mostly get the same color reproduction, get AF and Fuji's glass is just some of the market's finest.

The non APD version is a more versatile option but again it ain't cheap.
 
I say that because I don't understand the APD system!

The 56mm APD is the ultimate tool for this requirement, however it is not cheap.

I presume you mean a greater amount of "out of focus" areas to your portraits, if that is the case the the 56mm f1.2 is the lens for you.
 
Fuji on its websites provide a lens comparator a very useful tool to see what the performance of Fuji lenses look like, check it outL
 
P.S. The comparitor is the Fuji X mount lenses app, an iPad app available from the App Store!

Dr Nipun,
 
Fuji lenses are as good as it gets, so IMHO if you buy cheap you end up buying twice!
 
What country are you in? Only you can decide what you need from a lens, you have given no indication of budget?
 
The 18-55mm is reputed to be among the best standard zooms! Do you really want to faff around with an adapter and lenses that do not fit the Fuji X lens mount. Personally I don't!
 
No system is perfect. The British company WEX is a very good company to deal with. Google them!
 
If you are not specific in what you want, how can you expect specific answers!
 
There are lots of people migrating to the Fuji system so they are obviously doing something right!
 
Good luck
 
P.S. The 60mm f2.4 will serve very nicely as a portrait lens + you can also do a bit of macro as well!

Welcome
 
Depends how you want the bokeh to look?
I am more than satisfied with the XF60 F/2.4
 
here is a quick comparison I did between the bokeh of the 35 F/1.4, 60 F/2.4 and a legacy 50 F/2
 
Comparison by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
 
 
The 35mm F/1.4 is my go to lens, love it for street portraits
 
DSCF6418 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
 
DSCF8810 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
 
 
Q1 - Legacy = manual focus, if you're happy with that a cheap adapter and lenses can be found for a fraction of the cost of fujinon glass
 
However for fujinon If I didn't own the 60 F/2.4 I'd be tempted to see what the 50 F/2 is like when it arrives (I'd love the 56 F/1.2 but it is very expensive, especially as it is not as versatile as the 35 F/1.4).
 
I really can't comment on which legacy glass to buy, as all the legacy glass I own were gifted to me.
 
Nor can I recommend lenses I don't own and have not tested
 
Q2 - Ebay? although I imagine your mileage will vary
 
Q3 - can't help
 
Q4 - When I shoot with the 60mm for out door portraits, I often stop it down to F/4 so most of the portrait is sharp and background is slightly out of focus, it all depends on how much of the face you want in sharp focus
 
The 56mm F/1.2 @ F/1.2 with the subject 100 cm away, the depth of field would only be about 1.5 cm (the subject at 500 cm the DOF would be about 40cm)
 
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm

Actually, the majority of X-T1s I see have grips on them.

If you have a 15" Laptop and want to put your laptop in the bag, then you'll have to get the one that can accommodate that one, or get the smaller one, and buy another bag for when you want to carry your laptop.  And if you don't want to buy a bigger bag just because you may occasionally carry your laptop, then I'd look at a different style of bag all together if it were me.  That's only if you're going to have to have two bags anyway, might as well be two different styles of bag.

I would like to throw in an alternate suggestion:
 
Tenba Classic P211
 
I bought this bag two months ago. I've configured the bag to hold one body (XE-2 or XP-2) and any five of these six lenses: 16, 23, 56, 90, 18-55, and 55-200. I also have a Fuji bounce flash, three filters, three batteries. There is a zippered lower compartment that allows for one or two lenses, chargers, or other stuff. Full disclosure: In order to accomplish this, I had to add one divider from another bag. The camera rides on tip with the lens pointing down. The bag is very narrow, a messenger design, has a firm, box shape, and is very well made. I don't think the rear zippered compartment would hold a laptop, but it holds my tablet easily. For me, room is not an issue with this bag. I'm able to put more in it than I'm willing to carry around. It gets too heavy before it gets too full. 
 
Might be worth a look if you don't want to wait 27 days. . . .  How intriguing. . . .  

In my opinion, the DNA 15 is too large for your system. The depth front to back is the same as a pro DSLR with an attached grip/booster, which is really a ton of space for a mirrorless system. The DNA 13 would be a much better size to manage, but of course the laptop will not fit.
 
I'm not sure how soon you need the bag, but there *may* be something interesting coming 27 days from now that could be of interest to you.
 
Can I ask what country you live in?
 
Peter
Tenba

If you plan on taking a 15" laptop with your photo gear from time to time, I would highly suggest you a backpack style bag, it will be a lot better for your shoulders if you have to carry everything with you for several hours.
 
Trust me on this, a fully loaded messenger bag will give you sore shoulders.

This is a rather difficult advice to give. If possible I would say, take some gear and go into a shop and try one of them for a spin, that would give you exactly what can expect out of them and how they would look/feel.
 
As for me, my daily drive bag has been clearly taken over by the Peak Design Messenger bag, I know they are releasing a smaller version of it, which sound just as good, but I still prefer my daily bag to be larger. It's easier to manager a half empty large bag, than try to find more space in a bag that is clearly too small for your sudden increase in gear.
 
If you need to carry an ultrabook laptop, I will not take anything smaller than the DNA 13 with only the exception of the DNA 11 if you happen to be using a Microsoft Surface.
 
Now if photo editing on the spot is not needed, just go take the DNA 8, I have been able to cram my X-T1 with 35 F1.4, 18-135 and 10-24 into a much smaller bag and still be able to carry 2 extra batteries and a smaller 5200 mah powerbank, battery charger for the camera and enough cables to juice up anything in an emergency.

The one I've ended up using myself is called Viltrox—nope, I've never heard of them before, either—and I picked them up after a fellow local X-shooter lent me his set. They're on Amazon, just search for Viltrox on whichever version of Amazon is relevant for your country. Two others I can recall were called Fotga, who make several Fuji accessories and theirs worked fine, and a set I can't remember the brand name of but their metal parts had funky red anodising, so they should be easy to spot.
I've tried five third-party sets in all and not noticed a problem with any of them, but for the life of me I can't remember the names of the other two. AF worked fine, exposure metering worked fine, all feel equally secure. The Fuji ones have  slightly nicer paint finish to them, obviously, but that's all that the premium price gives you.
 
I guess I should add, in the interest of fairness, that this doesn't just go for Fuji. Extension tubes are one of the easiest and cheapest accessories to make, for any mount, so there's no point buying official Canon/Nikon/Sony/etc ones, either.