Dis

in all fairness... it looks really UGLY on the X-T1
 

 
much better on the X-T10
 
 

Thanks for the advice on continuous focus, clients loved the results, and the CL, and the zone focus worked great!. I am very pleased with the performance of the fuji system. 

What dis said, 
 
Only thing I would add is hold camera with sensor pointing sideways or downwards while lens is off the camera, less likely for dust to float in or settle on the sensor if you have gravity working for you.
Oh and always have camera switched off as when the sensor has current it will attract dust more.
 
G

Hi all, after advice here and on another forum I've recently invested in a range of Yongnuo flash products that work perfectly and seamlessly on the X-T1. I thought I'd share this with you all.
 
I purchased two of the Yongnuo yn 560 IV - great flash, very similar in size and appearance to the Canon 580 EX II, but with built in wireless communication. Cost US70 each.
 
To adjust the flash units remotely I purchased the yn 560 TX transmitter. This synced with the flash units instantly and easily, and enables the user to turn individual groups on and off, adjust intensity from 1/128 power to 1/1 in third stops, and alter zoom levels etc. all simply and quickly. Best of all you don't actually need to have the transmitter on camera to do this. I clip it to my belt using a Spider Monkey clip from the Spider Pro holster company. Cost US45
 
To trigger the flash units I use Yongnuo 605C triggers. These come in a pack of two, meaning I have one transmitter for each camera. Naturally I could use one as a receiver, but to have two small and capable transmitters is perfect for my requirements. Cost US42
 
Overall I've got a fully capable system scalable up to 6 seperate groups just by adding additional flash units, for a total investment of US227 - less than half the price of a Canon 600EX RT. I can confirm that all pieces worked perfectly on the X-T1, and it was simple to use in manual mode. Finally, the Yongnuo 605 triggers also include a cable which plugs into the 2.5mm remote socket, and enables them to be used as a remote release with up to 100 yards range. Great Bonus!
 
I'm very happy with the setup, and find it MUCH easier to use than the Canon system.

Outdoors I always have a bag with a place for every lens i carry with me including the one on the camera. I don't use front caps. Only hoods and protectors.
1. Open the bag
2. Remove the lens and place into the bag
3. Switch rear cap from the lens you want to put on the camera to the lens you've just removed.
4. Put the new lens on the camera.
5. ???????
6. PROFIT111!!!

If i remember correctly AF assist without firing the flash is possible on both the SB-800 and SB-900 speed lights.

Unfortunately there is the other side of the medal. People usually believe that professional lenses and cameras are huge. Thus one having small-sized gear is no a professional.

It also depends on what you are shooting. 

Considering the success of the 100t, I'd have to agree that the X-Pro 2 will most likely have the HVF.  Which is a bonus.
 
However I really like the VF on the S and Pro1 better.  But that's just a personal preference really.  You can just use the OVF instead and get the benefits of the HVF when you want it.

that's why there is HVF on x100t. It's highly possible x-pro2 will get it too.

Not interested. Spare SDs for backup will be cheaper. And I do RAW conversion only on large calibrated display.
 
This idea can work with really popular systems like Nikon or Canon but hardly vital with small community of Fuji users.

The interesting point is which magnifications the X-Pro2's OVF will feature. For example I personally require 16mm and 50mm or 55mm. These will allow to shoot 16mm and 56mm almost at their native magnifications. 16-55 and 50-140 could be shot without magnification swich.

Just a bunch of spares and the problem is solved. Quite a reasonable price for x100* advantages. BTW my single full charged battery is always enough for 300+ photos two hour photoshoots. EVF only x100s. Nevertheless I still dream about 16,23,35,56,90 X-mount lenses with leaf shutters as 23 and TCL are not always enough))). 

I prefer x100 series + TCL. Of course PixelPeepers will now scream about low sharpness at close focus distances. But IMO x100 series is must have for any serious portrait photographer because of the leaf shutter. Otherwise sell everything you have including your family and get medium format)))

I prefer x100 series + TCL. Of course PixelPeepers will now scream about low sharpness at close focus distances. But IMO x100 series is must have for any serious portrait photographer because of the leaf shutter. Otherwise sell everything you have including your family and get medium format)))

Tom, her necklace attracts attention a lot just as it's an ad., but it's not in focus. IMO that's irritating. I'd love to see this picture with enough DOF to cover both her face and her body.

"Bride Decides To Be Her Own Wedding Photographer And The Result Is Better Than Most Wedding Photos". ORLY?!

Try this with either the 90 2.0 or 16 1.4. Those both act as semi-macro lenses, at least for me. And both offer very (!) different images. Ringshots with the 16, offering a lot background, are definitely a change from the stereotypical tele macro ring shots.

I have no-name nik adapter. Fuji mount is plastic, Nikon mount is metal. It is little longer than needed so my Ai-s lenses set to infinity are over-infinity. No a big deal. I just loose several close focus cm. Nevertheless I don't adapt G lenses to Fuji. If you do, I'd recommend to get a high quality converter from Metabones. Bad converter can damage the aperture pin. Don't forget to consider speedboosters. It's a cool but quite expensive thing. 

It looks like you confuse bokeh with background blur. Bokeh is the rendering of background blur. There can be two lenses with same focal lengths and apertures but totally different bokeh. Also 140@2.8 is about the same as 90/2 in terms of background blur.

I like the acceleration feature. It's an actual benefit of "by wire" technology.
Maybe they can add an option to turn the acceleration on and off?
I'm sure if several dozen users write to Fuji wanting such an option, it would be seriously on the table.

Don't say for everyone. I use telephoto lenses in portraits for real closeups and for narrowing perspective outdoors. And these are quite often situations.

90mm. It's a new gem. It allows to have one lens for details and compressed background portraits at last. That's amaizing!

It looks like you confuse bokeh with background blur. Bokeh is the rendering of background blur. There can be two lenses with same focal lengths and apertures but totally different bokeh. Also 140@2.8 is about the same as 90/2 in terms of background blur.

That depends on the RAW converter that is used. There are more than a dozen converters out there that support X-Trans to some extent, so somebody could make a list that should at least include lens metadata corrections, DR settings and Fuji film simulations. I already did that work to some extent with several popular converters (LR, Iridient, Aperture, Silkypix, PhotoNinja, Capture One) in my book, but there's always more, so feel free to add to the list.
 
Almost all metadata settings and maker notes are stored in the RAW file, as well, but there are a few exceptions. To see the differences, all one has to do is open a RAW and a corresponding SOOC JPEG in ExifTool and compare the EXIF contents.