milandro

Different story. That airline was owned by the state as a majority shareholder. Apples and oranges.

I wasn’t aware that the Japanese Gorvernment or any other non communist government is able to ask a company to buy shares in another. Even more so if the company is “ suffering”. I thought the shareholders have way more to say about this and any company whose CEO would listen to the government rather than the economics is doing a BAD job. I would say this is a hoax.

Helicoid adapters for M Leica to Fuji X are all very expensive but then again if you are into Leicas you probably don’t care about the price of an adapter! https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1113922-REG/hawks_hkslmfuxmhv5_leica_m_lens_for.html http://www.ebay.it/itm/Kipon-Macro-Helicoid-Adapter-for-Leica-M-Lens-to-Fuji-X-Pro1-X-E1-X-T1-M1-Camera-/120935890222

The aperture stops down as you close the aperture on the lens it doesn’t stay open. This is true of K as KA lenses. You have a menu where you will set manually the focal length for each lens, you have a number of already set focal lenses and two that you can set yourself. I predict that you will forget, as I do, to switch between one or the other. This only serves the purpose of providing the EFX data with the focal length , that’s it. I forget to use it often as I swithch from one lens to another. I also have the 8mm fisheye and 12mm samyang they also have a non electric Fuji bayonet so the camera doesn’t know which lens in on it. I don’t think that the OVF will show the bright frame according to the lens that you use for adapted lenses, even if you change the focal length. I don’t have enough experience with X pro 1 and 2 to know this , but I think that only if the camera recognizes only the lenses with electrical contacts in the OVF showing the the frame , some time ago this happened also with X pro 1 and some lenses (as the 90) made after the camera The camera didn’t show anything and could only be used in EVF. So you need to use the EVF and with that you will see what the lens shows and you don’t need to apply any crop factor, what you see is what you get. Your 35mm Pentax will show approximately the same field view as the 35mm Fuji. I think that you are a bit confused about equivalences. Yes the 35mm on a Aps-C works approximatively as a 50mm on a full frame but on the aps-c both lenses show the same field , so 35mm is 35mm. Also about the EVF getting darker . No it won't unless you shoot manual and with exposure image simulation ON. My advise is to use the camera in Automatic exposure in aperture priority. Read the shutter value and modify the Iso if it falls outside of the shutter speed that you want to use. The EVF won’t show getting darker ( because it compensates always amplifying the light to the automatic correct exposure) you will only see the shutter speed change I think you have some incorrect ideas about how to use X cameras with manual lenses. I use the most manual lens that you could possibly think of, a Petzval 85 with a Canon EF adapter with an iris aperture set at the back of the lens and an aperture made as a sliding metal fixed aperture. It couldn’t be any more primitive. I have also many other adapters and have used Lens Turbo adapters and have one adapter with helicoid too, then I have a tilt adapter . So, all of these turn you camera into a very primitive object with high technology inside, I use the high technology to my advantage. For example that’s why I shoot automatic. If you are hang up about using the ISO button I can tell you that you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between something shot at 200 ( which I always did in the beginning) and anything shot up to 800. I am on holiday for two weeks you won’t get a response from me while I am away.

Are you using manual shutter? what is the shutter speed? If you exceed the synchro speed by several stops you won’t get any image

anyway, if you want the K&F adapter let me know you seem to be in Germany and the shipping cost will be reasonable. Once you have an adapter it will be immediately obvious to you how all this works and how easy it is. The only difficulty is getting a good focus but you will quickly chose one of the various focus aids.

To this I replied what Eppscot thought concerned him “........Well, this is part of “ the problem” as the video tribe probably sees it. There isn’t one (VIDEOCAMERA), yet, based around Fuji X lenses. Since they have now made their expensive video lenses to fit the X system, this could be mean that they are working toward producing a dedicated video camera (only) , since it would be not very wise to put very expensive lenses on camera that have all the limitations of the video function of the still photography cameras by Fuji. I would certainly welcome that move so, the rest of us, would be rid of all these additional problems created by this uncomfortable coexistence in one body. ..........."

Eppscot my answer was directed to Mike G.

No, I am afraid you don’t understand this. The camera measures the light as it comes in, doesn’t need to be told which aperture you are using,it is a measured quantity and returns you a shutter speed (if in Automatic) or tells you which shutter speed needs to be used for the correct exposure. This is exactly the same way your LX worked. It is totally irrelevant for which camera the lens was made for, the quantity of light that arrives on the sensor is read as is, needs no furtherinformation. You get the exposure data, or an automatic exposure, just like that. The difference with any DSLR is that in a mirrorless camera, what you see in your EVF is precisely (or thereabouts) what you get ( Make sure you set the evf brightness and color correctly) I personally use also manual lenses in Automatic Aperture Mode ( which shows the shutter speed in the evf if you have enabled it) but manual would work just the same, it would tell you which shutter speed is correct. The only difference with any analog camera is that you also have another variable, the ISO butto, to use just in case you want a precise couple of shutter, aperture. So, you set the aperture and you get a subsequent shutter speed, if you want to adapt it you push pull the ISO, very easy. By the way, you also need to enable the exposure simulation for best results in your EVF. In this way the EVF will be darker or lighter when you shoot manual. There is not full frame factor to be telling to anything. 50mm is 50mm, whether the lens covers a full frame or not, and what you see in the EVF is what you get, the only difference is that, the the APS-C is obviously smaller so the field shown won’t we as wide, but you exactly see what the lens projects on the sensor.

For ultra luminous lenses the Ricoh Rikenon 50 f1.4 and 55 f1.2 are the most accessible on the market and are great performers.

you’ve posted this twice, see my answer in the other thread

What is the best adapter might be debatable I have had always great experience with K&F which is very well made and made with absolute precision ( infinity focus in no problem at all) I find no reason to spend the money that Novoflex or other ultra-expensive adapters cost. If you are in Europe I have one Pentax K> Fx for sale ( wouldn’t be practical to send to a location outside the EU because it would cost too much), get in touch with me after 6 June if you want it. I also have a Ricoh Rikenon K 50mm f1.4 to go with it. There is nothing special to “full frame lenses" being adapted to the X system ( there is nothing special of the X pro 2 too compared to any other camera of the system they all adapt lenses the same way) you put an adapter in between, you enable the camera to shoot without the lens (because of the absence of electrical contacts the camera doesn’t know there is a lens with an adapter) you may want to tell the camera the focal length ( it only serves the purpose to add that to the EFX data,doesn’t perform any optical correction as it would with a Leica M adapted lens). You focus manually (use one of the several in camera built in focus aids or not), you set the aperture manually. That’s about it really. Generally speaking you will find that ultra luminous lenses are lacking contrast and sharpness at 1.4 1.2 but stop them down to 2 they are all rather sharp. Because of the inability to work with the slanted rays that could be otherwise used in analog photography focal lenses shorter than 35mm perform worse than the longer lenses . This is less true of some design then others . I found the 28mm 3.5 Pentax to be a good performer while almost any 28mm 2.8 isn’t as good as this. You will see for yourself. The 100mm macro, if you have it, is a great lens too.

Well, this is part of “ the problem” as the video tribe probably sees it. There isn’t one, yet, based around Fuji X lenses. Since they have now made their expensive video lenses to fit the X system, this could be mean that they are working toward producing a dedicated video camera (only) , since it would be not very wise to put very expensive lenses on camera that have all the limitations of the video function of the still photography cameras by Fuji. I would certainly welcome that move so, the rest of us, would be rid of all these additional problems created by this uncomfortable coexistence in one body.

no use in repeating what I already wrote.

none, enjoy!

there are many threads about adapted lenses. In any forum before opening new threads is always better to follow previous one, because you will get more visibility and ultimately are part of the collective wisdom. First of all..you don’t need to input the focal length for anything else than the EFX. In this way it will show which focal lens was used and the shutter speed (but it won’t do anything to the aperture because they are never connected) The setting of the focal length does nothing else aside for Leica M lenses ( which do have a certain amount of correction). It will simply show in the EFX dat, but that is all. Any manual lens (even if not adapted) is subject to this. Also the ones with a native Fuji FX bayonet. It is impossible to put a focal length of a zoom and , unless you use a program to change the EFX data you certainly cannot modify this after the shot. I forget to change this setting with every shot as it does absolutely nothing and generally I know If I shot a picture with which lens.

I don’t want a special camera made without a video. There is no need for that, we have already cameras incorporating video capability. But I don’t want the Fujifilm X cameras, mainly known and used as still photography cameras by the majority of the users, to be made to be videocameras more than they are now already. They may make a special video only model for the peole whom, like you, seem to want more video features. A small minority of the Fuji users. I also don’t want the cameras to become any more complex than they are already (seen the great confusion that even at this stage they seem to cause among lots of users who get mixed up in all the menu’s) and I certainly want the cameras to keep their old fashioned character which is what attracted me into the Fuji system, I truly dislike using any Sony camera for example, precisely for those reasons. For me and many others there is no need to go in the video thing any deeper than the Fuji cameras are already. Since generation1 of the X cameras, there was always, some, albeit limited, video capabilities, nice as an extra feature, and it is already there from the beginning and that’s that. I was quite happy with having a video function for incidental use. But this is a still photography camera and I want it to stay that way. As we’ve seen, adding a 4K video has made the camera more expensive ( X-T2 is way more expensive than the X-T1 ever was) and made, in practice, mandatory the use of new more expensive batteries and for those on the X-T2 also a battery grip that makes it the largest small camera on the market. A contradiction in his own right. First they go to great length to make a small system then they make it bigger because the sensor needs a lot more energy and needs dissipating heat. Maybe they will make a special video only model. Great for those like you, so we can, each of us, go on doing what we like best without having to pay for things that we don’t want or need. Anyway as usual it will be what it will be. Neither me or you will determine this. Industrial production is not based on democracy. I think that trying to imitate other brands is a bad strategy and being the king of your niche is better than being a participant to a race where others, with much more capital, will always have an edge that you don’t have. Video is NOT a top priority for Fuji X, and it is certainly not for most Fuji camera buyers.

I don’t believe that putting a high quality video and a high quality still camera in the same body is a good choice. It isn’t for me anyway. Even taking into account the fact that some people who shoot stills, occasionally, shoot videos, that is going, at some point,to put the two systems at odds with each other ( because of clashing priorities) and add useless cost for those, like me, never film and don’t want to buy something that they don’t want. I hope that this would be a rational argument. Please bear with me and don’t take this literally but appreciate the spirit in which I am using this analogy to explain my point and try to refrain from snarky remarks. I am a middle aged gentleman and no I am not crossdressing and no, I don’t wear high heels, this is just an example. Many women who wear high heeled shoes for their work or social engagements, like to wear sneakers while commuting from home to the place where they use the shoes, but no company selling the high heels offer an extra pair of sneakers with their shoes. Because not everyone wants them, because not everyone who want them would want THOSE sneakers and because they add useless cost to something already expensive. So, yes, maybe it would be a good idea for Fuji to develop a Video Cameras separate line One which uses the lenses of the X system (and the much more expensive video lenses) and in so doing pleasing the people whom, like epscott, want this thing that for me is completely and utterly useless. So you can have a good camera for videos and a good camera for stills (with some video capability for those whom really can’t do without). I don’t even use a video on my otherwise outstanding phone camera! ( Just upgraded and only because the phone I had wasn’t working well anymore) why would I want a video feature of outstanding quality in my still camera? Of course I am resisting (I have a X-T1 ) buying a new body simply because it is there. I have all I ever need and more in my camera body and will use it until it start failing. Even after so many years I still have to find a camera which limits me as an image creator.

there were many more lenses with the same system as the Kodak Retina III they never became a success, because having the aperture ( and in those cases also the shutter) and at least one group of one of more lenses in the body limited the construction so much that aperture was always limited and shorten than 28mm focal lengths were impossible. Lomography, nice and creative though it is, sometimes, in attempt to be the eternal hipster system, loses touch with practicality. They have invented a lens whose whole purpose (and more) can be easily performed and in a better way by any zoom, even an ancient one if you must.

which really makes you think about why do people insist on the “ Oh so great!" performance of a lens like this at f1.2 when the depth of field at close range is only paper thin

maybe you can buy it here in the Nl? Is the shop where I buy all my things Used available in Rotterdam https://www.kamera-express.nl/product/12222209/fujifilm-xf-18-135mm-f-3-5-5-6-r-ois-wr-outlet-model/

I have compared my Jack to many other bags and I am still very happy that I have my gorgeous leather bag. As for space. I would gladly challenge anyone to find another bag as spacious. This review isn’t mine

I have bought the same Bestek bag ( comes under many brands and in several sizes I had a large one and still was too small for me because I hate piling up lenses and bodies) and the bag came from China folded inside its insert (interesting shipping method) which was in a black plastic bag. It is as cheap as chips and nice looking on pictures, a bit less from close up. I've used it for a couple of weeks and sold it, locally, for the price that I paid ( I think that I still have a couple of dividers that i forgot to give the buyer). It is not that I want to dis this bag, but is really (for me) very very flimsy. You can find the same bag in more expensive versions on the market but I was disappointed. The reason why I bought the bag above ( yes, the Jack by Jill.E costs 5 times as much or more than the Bestek) is not only durability and manufacture quality but also the fact that you can use this bag to go on holiday and pack it full of everything that you need, photographically and tourist wise. I also have a soft bag by Crumpler where I put an insert inside or not and carry a body and two lenses as absolute minimum for holiday which don’t require me taking much. I paid peanuts for this Crumpler and I would recommend it for short trips , with a cheap insert it certainly works wonders even with a lot of equipment

actually the black model does exist and it is more expensive than the brass one, the lens was made with Canon and Nikon bayonet so that those users ( the majority in the cameral world) need no adapter. I have no problem with my Canon>Fuji adapter , I have had a lens turbo and now this one Canon EF> Fuji with stopless aperture good luck with making your own Petzval. Let us know when you’ve finished it. Or is it just an empty promise?

pressure marks between two smooth surfaces like glass always show as a circular pattern with newton rings. This was actually the way in ancient time lens were ground precisely placing two glass surface onto one another ( convex and concave) and grinding where the newton rings show. If this were smudges the would change place if you clean again.