milandro

you are the second member who reports a “ defect” that carries on to the second camera replaced by the shop. I have no idea of what this might be BUT unless all the cameras are the same, the odds will be against this, then the other possibility remains that since the two were different camera and you are the same person, that it is something that you do. Not a criticism, but a simple deduction.

must have been interesting. I have been many times on the bridge (every time I am am in London I never miss the Tate modern, it is one of my favorite spots in town.). But the skyline is very much changed (as everything else ) since the days I lived there. Lots of water has passed under all the bridges , new or old.

that’s exactly why I went back to this picture shot last year at the Tate modern

Mala Tempora Currunt It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way – in short, the period was so far like the present period, that some of its noisiest authorities insisted on its being received, for good or for evil, in the superlative degree of comparison only.

are you shooting in a rapid sequence, higher than the buffer could take? Are these shots with flash at a shutter speed much higher than 1/250?

or, in the case of the X-T1 1/180

it is impossible ( downgrading is always been impossible) the only person who might reprogram the camera is a Fuji tech (and they might not be in a position to do it) and the exercise would certainly cost more than the camera is worth. I know it is too late but upgrading (especially the latest ones that only affected certain things that might not even be relevant to the user) should be done with extreme care and only after numerous months when it has been tested and tested. In this case it is even some feature which involves third parties there fore something that Fuji doesn’t care and can guarantee anything about.

It looks like that you can take that metal element out by unscrewing 3 screws. I don’t think there is anything more complicated than that! It should then be easy to clean although the pattern looks like it is almost something intentional ( i can see a smudge where you probably have tried to clean the metal retainer) but it is impossible that it would have been purposely done when new. Is this a Minolta 135mm MD f2.8 or thereabouts? They are not special lenses but should be good and frankly speaking given their relatively small value there is nothing wrong in attempting to clean it, you won’t be losing much even if you were to damage the lens. Other than that, this is not a type of fungus which could infect your camera and other lenses and it would be harmless, I think. If the metal is, as I think, aluminum, it has to be a reaction to some agent producing aluminum oxide crystals. Remove them and then apply a coat of black spray mat paint. http://www.howtocleanthings.com/surfaces/how-to-clean-aluminum/

concentrate your eyes at a place just beyond the screen crossing left with the right eye. At some point (or other, most probably the latter) you will visualize a 3D image

more replay options... then attach anything up to 1000Kb

pebbles & corals

there are several threads on this camera and if you use the local search engine you can easily find them ( And there is even a dedicated section to X10/20/30!). Aslo if you call the thread X30 many would overlook the fact that you are asking for opinions and experiences.

Re install both camera software and app on the device. Make sure you use THIS software http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/pc_autosave/mac/ Macs are peculiar about communicating with external devices (Apple obsesses about anything which might access a computer and add things that they don’t want you to add). It doesn’t work with all OS versions. I bever got it working on my Imac with Yosemite.

You are aware that this adapter only allows you to use the lenses at their maximum aperture right? Once you’ve mounted the lens on the adapter mount the adapter on the camera. Enable shooting without lens and you are good to go. Manual focus.

Another life saver

CoCo-Cktail

B&W Beach

Check the LCD EVF toggle function , see that your EVF sensor isn’t obstructed by anything ( telling the camera you are using the EVF although your face isn’t there) http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-e2s/menu_setup/evf_lcd/index.html

Cheers, I hope it is nothing! Good luck!

You should try to point to a brick wall AND to the pavement with a geometric pattern, both ways absolutely orthogonally and see if there is any misalignment can be nothing but it could be something. See at many apertures. I see it is an X30 so the lens is built in.

Indeed but also the first one shows the right side being less sharp than the left at a distance that is similar on the two sides.

No, other than a bit of PP there isn’t much done to the shot. Just a walk on a tropical beach.

still the distance of the right side appears to be the same and unless you had you camera really at an angle and this is a very small crop this is not what I would expect.

nice, can I ask why the top left side of your last picture is very sharp while the top right side isn’t? Seems odd. They are at the same distance.

yes it does, read the article and not, 1/60 is not (always) long enough depends on the light source. There are differences between fluorescent tubes and led and tungsten. Besides there is a difference in 50Hz. or 60Hz. current between countries using different systems. We’ve already spoken about this http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/836-how-can-you-avoid-banding-using-the-mechanical-shutter-under-fluorescent-lights/