milandro

mambo number 6 ..

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/press/news/display_news?newsID=881027 otherwise BH, the largest store in town, alternatively Adorama.

please publish examples. Without that what can we possibly talk about? I am assuming that you are NOT evaluating sharpness on raw image (as someone else turned out he was doing) since a raw image is only shown in a low resolution embedded jpeg. A raw image should be fully processed and sharpened to be judging sharpness. Having said this. are you using a tripod to shoot the test images? Is the shutter speed sufficiently fast? It is certainly possible that you have been given a bad copy but first you need to eliminate human error.

I can’t wait... As in “ I am not waiting for it"

@mdm the Minolta lenses are all outstanding and actually series III are very compact read about them here http://www.rokkorfiles.com/Lens%20History.html

true but there are many ways to use that lens and for landscapes, provided you don’t tilt the camera too much or have very close objects on the sides of the shot, you can shoot with almost imperceptible effects.

I have the 8mm and 12mm Samyang and they both perform admirably. Anyone who uses it is very happy with this lens. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3670824#forum-post-53674914

high key

why would a projection lens have an aperture?

what a joy! http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4458-i-think-the-joystick-is-kinda-worthless/

and will it be a true ibis or a digital ibis? Will it be used on photography or film alone?

after a long time at 200 I am now leaving it at 100

I most certainly would not attempt to shoot during the day, even when shooting with a polarizer you will notice that you will never be able to get all the reflections. To me , the only chance is shooting at night and preventing most if not all reflections (if you must) by placing a black cloth (or alternatively a seamless paper background0 in front of the glass). This can prove very difficult if the window display is very large (tall, wide or both) On an other note I love the pictures that you are showing above! But I understand that your customer is not looking for an “ Arty” impression of his window display. This is an example shot by a very good friend of mine Alberto Jona Falco - Studio Olimpic Milano

Judging by his flickr page OP knows exactly what to do with it and is a very good photographer.

the samyang 85mm is a great lens at a great price ( you don’t have to shoot everything at 1.4 ) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1024120-REG/samyang_sy85m_fx_85mm_f_1_4_lens_for.html

M stands for metric but this being what it is might be not metric but withworth

I suppose you mean a “ window display” ( a vitrine is rather small glass container of objects). There is no way to get rid of those unless you have a complex setting Many years ago, the “ Rinascente” of Milan gave me the assignment to shoot the window displays as they changed them periodically. So I did a fair bit of these shots. I used to do it also for other shops too. I went there late at night and shot both the whole window (or sections) and details of the display using only the lights of the shop as only light source. But they weren’t paying enough to go to do this in a more complex way ( and there were no shops on the other side of the road or cars passing by) so I kept it simple, quick and dirty. If you want to do it the quick way and there aren’t too many cars or other shops on the other side of the road this is a rather easy task ( and you can certainly retouch some thing nowadays a luxury that I didn’t have back in 1984). The proper way ( but doing this on the scale of a shop like the Rinascente is tricky!) is to have a huge black cloth in front of the window suspended between two (or more) floor light stands and you shoot from a slit in the cloth positioned where you aren’t likely to get too much reflection (you can still have things from the lights overhead, for example) from any other parasitic light. Shooting at an angle is easier than shooting right in front, because the angle of refection is different front the angle of shooting) but it depends also from the situation since you may have multiple angle of incidence outside lights.

as Johan says the “ extended dynamic range” is achieved by underexposing your file and it does show on your raw (although by its nature recovering is not a problem) A bit the same when we wanted to saturate colours on analog pictures on slides. Now you have a dense picture and you can merge different versions of this on different layers and have an extended dynamic range of sort. But really you can only get a true extended dynamic range by shooting pictures with different exposures and then merging them together , this is I believe what people want to achieve with extended bracketing. Changing highlights and shadow settings shows only on the jpeg (and it is affected by the film simulation too), I suppose most will enhance shadows and reduce highlights but then most will do things while processing which counteract or put things even further.

you have asked the same question in two different threads If no one answered chances are that no one knows and asking Fuji about compatibility with a third party accessory is not going to get you very far either. I guess you will be soon telling us if it does. If it doesn’t you will be selling it to someone else. Good luck!

to mimic the time it took to bring the pictures and retrieve them from the lab

no, not the arrows it is all in the manual in the link I gave above

Yes, you have to use the no lens option If you want to use the lens in aperture priority yes, othewise you can use it in other modes. No, there is no need to focus on M, that option is used only to manual focus an autofocus lens. The use of this lens is the same on all the X cameras with interchangeable lenses.

Humble leaves with an humble lens

my comment was directed to the poster before of me ^ who suggested an 2:1 macro lens. A 2:1 is not going to be able to fit a super 8 frame in an aps-c, you need , at least, a 4X magnification

exactly, so you have been watching ( and making your judgement ) based on the embedded low res . You need to process it, apply sharpening and THEN you have the real high res image please read this thread from the beginning (go to page 1) http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1837-possible-concern-over-quality/page-2 and this http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/raw-file-format.htm