Adam Woodhouse

Just registered on this forum to give my thoughts on this. Well not really my thoughts but my evidence. 
 
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison/fullscreen?attr18=lowlight&attr13_0=sony_a6300&attr13_1=fujifilm_xt1&attr13_2=fujifilm_xt2&attr13_3=nikon_d5500&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=6400&attr16_1=6400&attr16_2=6400&attr16_3=6400&attr171_0=off&normalization=full&widget=1&x=0.345942857142857&y=-0.08956372968349002
 
On that page you can clearly see the X-T2 has a similar amount of noise to the X-T1, maybe a little better, whilst presenting a good deal more detail.
 
I previously had the Sony a6300 which I was OK with shooting at ISO 12800. So it surprises me that the X-T2 is actually even better. 

I think the moire concern is with the video output of the Fuji systems, not the still images.  But I could be mistaken ....

Great image.  And shows how insanely sharp that lens can be.

X-T1 and 18-55 lens
 

I love shooting with legacy, or vintage lenses. At the end of the day for professional work I tend to only shoot with my XF lenses. But I also buy and sell vintage lenses for review purposes, and every now and then one will be so great for the price point that it stays in my kit. My Tamron SP 90 is a prime example, I paid $7 for it, $20 for the adapter and now I have a 135 f/2.5 Macro lens that amazing when needed. 

The first post where you see the shadow of the aircraft on the clouds directly ahead ... that is a stand out image.  Very good.
 
Many of these images people see when they look out the window as they fly ... but that perspective of the shadow on the clouds is special because almost no one will see that.

Low is supposedly "lower sensitivity" ergo, "tighter" focus indication. High will show "more stuff" in red, but is less precise.
I agree with you that focus peaking on High doesn't seem to make much sense. I've yet to find a use-case for it.
 
As for DOF, once you have you focus selected via peaking, use the DOF preview (I have mine mapped to the front button) to check the depth things in acceptable focus. This's actually works pretty well.
 
Rand

I wonder how much more you get with 4:2:2 output via HDMI to an external recorder.  There was only one shot where the highlight was noticeable.  
 
This is what excites me about 4k video.  Not for final distribution.  But you can add production value of pans and pushes, with a fixed camera position.  You did that very well in this video.  

I stand corrected on one thing.  One good thing that I just learned (actually I learned 2 things when testing on the XT2).
 
1st, put the camera focus mode in C but use the single point focus point, not the multi-focus point.  Then when you press the video record button, you can use the joystick to move the single focus point around and the continuous auto focus will follow that single focus point. So you can change focus point/location while recording video!!   I did not know that!  
 
2nd ... when the camera is in focus mode M (or the lens is in manual focus mode) you still get focus assist while recording video.  I think on the XT1 there was no focus assist while recording video.  So manual focus while recording video is much easier now.
 
A double win for us!

"Back-button focus" is a common point of confusion on Fujifilm cameras, and for the same reason that people get confused by the lack of a PASM dial. Fujifilm offers the same functionality but the controls are different.
 
Most DSLRs have an AF-S/AF-C setting and a "back button focus" setting. Fujifilm has a shutter-release AF setting and a back-button AF setting.
 
To get back-button focus, simply flip the front switch to AF-M. That decouples the autofocus from the shutter release. As for which mode the back button works in (AF-S or AF-C) when the front switch is in AF-M, there's a menu setting for that.
 
I've heard that older Fujifilm cameras interrupt back-button AF when the shutter is fired. In AF-C, this forces the camera to reacquire focus for each shot in a burst rather than simply continuing tracking. I've heard that the new models "correctly" ignore the shutter actuation and continue tracking. Exactly which models do what, I don't know, but I think it's a safe guess that the X-T2 and the X-Pro2 (at least with the upcoming AF firmware update) continue tracking.

I put a little bit of Sugru on my AF-L buttons on the body and the battery grip.  Works like a charm.

Good news, it looks like it is coming soon! http://www.cactus-image.com/community/discussion/comment/2851/#Comment_2851

Excellent images!
 
Some of those should be printed as a very large canvas and mounted on walls of mansion!  Unfortunately, I don't have a mansion to extend the offer. 

I had a chance to take the X-T2 with the 100-400mm out for a spin at Airshow London (the one in Canada).

 

 
More images at:
http://blog.svphotography.ca/2016/09/fujifilms-x-t2-goes-to-airshow.html
 

Apparently there is a firmware update, but you'll need to send the flash in to the distributor for the update.
 
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58344264

I've been back button focusing with my XT1 since I got it 18 months back.  But ... with back button AF-L used for focusing (have it set to only focus when I press the button) ... the camera still has the shutter half pressed focus enabled.  I think this new XT2 firmware will give the option to completely remove focusing from the shutter button.  So a bit different if that is what you are looking for.  But with the XT1, when holding the AF-L for back button focusing, the shutter response to the shutter button is instant ... as it should be.  
 
On the XT1 the back AF-L button for back button focusing only employees contrast focus, not the phase focus.  So the AF-L can commonly take longer to lock focus.  It is a nuisance and disappointing.  But on the XT2, the AF-L button now uses the same phase detection focus so it is just as quick as the focus via the shutter release button.  

As usual, the best advice is to choose the lenses you require first and foremost. The system naturally follows from that choice.

If the Adobe CC isn't your cup-of-tea ... I'd recommend purchasing Adobe Premiere Elements.
 
http://www.adobe.com/products/premiere-elements.html

Ya .. Fotasy.  I got that.  But mine is a bit different.
 
LINK ->  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDZ330M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I've been happy with mine thus far (for the little I've used it).

The face I'm making right now is the same as your avatar.
 
 
 

My god you're fitting a screen protector not doing surgery !
Ive just fitted the 650d protector to my XP2
quick wipe and on it went 
no bubbles or dirt 
very easy

I found export to be a bit quicker.  Just did an export of almost 450 RAF images from XT1 to high resolution JPG.  It seemed to do the export a bit quicker.

I believe on cameras that have touch LCD's ... there is an option in the menu to turn the touch feature off.

I have shot weddings for years and a couple of those years it was my primary income.  When I jumped over to Fuji XT1 I did one years worth of research in reading others experiences that did commercial work like me and read what they experienced.  When I made the jump, there were zero surprises because I had done so much research.  I had to make sure it was the right choice because it was my business, my name and a large part of my families income.
 
My Nikon gear (last owned was D3s, D700, D610) performed excellent and were tough built.  Problem was 1) I got sick of the bulk and weight having to lug it around 8 - 12hrs a day every weekend and at every family shoot and at every engagement shoot, and other shoots in between) .... 2) my D700 failed at a wedding and required $400 to fix, my D3s locked up with ERR code time and time again at paid gigs and $800 to NPS and it still wasn't fixed!!, and my D610 shutter blew apart at a wedding and it was $350 to fix).  I got fed up with the bodies giving me problems.
 
I shot all last year with one Nikon body and XT1 where I would mostly use XT1 to push it and see how I found it.  There definitely is a learning curve as it is a different tool.  But I was wanting to try something new so the timing was good.  At the start of my 2016 season I am now fully XT1 (two bodies).  The only thing I miss is a powerful TTL flash that I can put on my camera body and point towards a wall or ceiling when in a very large room for very quick shots.  That is a small part of my shoots, but I noticed it lacking in the wimpy iNissin 40 that I use.  My Youngnou flashes work perfect on the XT1 ... so that part was a painless transition.
 
Oh ... I noticed the dynamic range of images from the Nikon D610 dropped when going to the Fuji XT1.  I almost always shoot raw and noticed it when I push the images hard due to a mistake on my part or the auto exposure of the camera screwed up.  It has not been an issue.  It was simply something I noticed when pushing the editing ... particularly in trying to recover blown out highlights.