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George_P

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Everything posted by George_P

  1. The whole world is one small village. When did he leave CZ ? Anyway, I am reading this: 4. Appendices | Application Software PC AutoSave | FUJIFILM Corporation (fujifilm-dsc.com) and this: 4. Appendices | Application Software PC AutoSave | FUJIFILM Corporation (fujifilm-dsc.com) Have a look if it helps. To discharge the internal backup battery, you would have to leave the accu out of the camera for a long time, there has to be a better way.
  2. Dear Louise, Welcome to the forum ! I am sorry to hear about your troubles. I don´t have that camera, I haven´t used the recent versions of the app and I haven´t used the PC Autosave programme, so I am not in a good position really to give you any advice. But before somebody else can be more specific and before you get feeling lonely and abandoned here, I would like to at least point you to the following links in case you missed them, maybe they will help. Maybe you would be better off using Bluetooth for the app as opposed to WiFi. See here (choose IOS or Android via the two buttons at the top of the page and pls note that point Nr. 4 is about the camera menu, the others are about the app). Connecting to the Camera (Bluetooth) (fujifilm-dsc.com) Via WiFi: (the same re. Nr. 4) Connecting to the Camera (Models That Do Not Support Bluetooth) (fujifilm-dsc.com) X-T30 Manual Web Version - Wireless Connections Wireless Connections (Bluetooth<sup>®</sup>, Wireless LAN/Wi-Fi) (fujifilm-dsc.com) PC Autosave explanation: 3. Saving Photos and Movies to the Computer | Application Software PC AutoSave | FUJIFILM Corporation (fujifilm-dsc.com) Generally advisable: update firmware on the camera and use the newest version of the app, which you probably do, just saying. In case you decide that you need to upgrade the camera, do it exactly according to the instructions. If you can´t find them, let me know. For transferring pictures from the camera to the computer, I would say the best thing to do is to use a card reader, that is the fastest and most reliable way of doing it. Maybe you missed something and the above instructions will help. If not, let us know and surely we will be able to help you further. Nice greetings to Scotland, stay safe ! George
  3. mdm is right. It is written in the release notes, so “we do not give out this kind of information” must be some misunderstanding. You can download and try out for yourself before you jump to a conclusion. C1 is very good with Fuji files.
  4. Welcome, greetings from Slovakia. Beautiful pics on your flickr ! Slovenia is a beautiful country. I climbed Vrsic by bike a few years ago, would love to do Log pod Mandartom sometimes. Bled is beautiful, the valley of Radovna... Post some more !
  5. ‘nuff talking. Download C1 and try it ! 🙂
  6. C1 is the best choice, most people would agree I think. This has been discussed a thousand times already. They have good tutorials. Try it, it is worth it. Later on you can switch to C1 Pro and never look back.
  7. https://www.captureone.com/en/products-plans/capture-one-express/fujifilm Cheers.
  8. Godox +1 Godox XProx-F, AD200, V860IIF. The Li-Ion Accus are great, really worth it. Night and day difference to the 1.5V AA batteries (or 1.2V NiMh accus).
  9. Dear Mihai, thanks for the write-up. I have no issues with cards but it can be useful for the ones who do.
  10. Thanks for the kind comment, Herco. You made a very good point re. stopping down the lens.
  11. On Flickr there is a group called “Fuji XF 50mm F2.0”, have a look what the pics look like.
  12. (I prefer primes but...) 10-24 obviously.
  13. Howdy Jerry, we were both writing at the same time.
  14. You are welcome. You say the second picture was taken at 1/20sec. The EXIF data on Flickr confirm that (1/18). The second picture looks so bright (and washed-out, without contrast, overexposed) because 1/20 combined with ISO1250 made it look that way. The floor is OOF but not blurry. The cat is blurry. Naughty cat. It moved ! The first picture is fine and I think there is probably nothing wrong whatsoever with your lens.. Thing is, 1/20 is definitely too slow to freeze even a slow movement of your cat. If you want to freeze movement, you should aim at shutter priority, 1/250 and more. 1/125 is OK e.g. for people posing and holding more or less still. You can set a fixed aperture (most Fuji lenses perform best around f4-f5.6 (in terms of sharpness), that should give you enough of a DOF to get most if not all of the cat in focus :). And use Auto-ISO. On your zoom lens your max. aperture depends on the focal length at which it is zoomed. A faster lens (means a lens with bigger aperture, like an f2 prime) and/or more light will help you to faster shutter speeds without having to crank up the ISO. Regarding you being able to hold the camera steady enough, generally, for still subjects you should be OK with a shutter speed number double the focal length, e.g.1/125 for a 50mm lens, 1/200 for a 90mm lens, you get the picture. OIS helps (quite substantially) but only with stationary subjects. It can stabilize the camera, not the cat. For SS of 1/20 I would say you need a good technique even with OIS. DOF: Depth of Field, OOF: Out of Focus. Read the manual again, you can find useful things there to help you. Good luck, have fun, let us know how you fared and definitely post some pics !!! Cheers.
  15. Allen, Which car is "better" ? A Porsche, a Land Cruiser or the 5 ? I mean, it is not a question of better or worse, it is a question of better for a certain purpose. The 50 f1.0 is rather extreme, in DOF, price, size, weight, speed (low light capability). For the vast majority of normal photos I would argue the f2 is just as good and also small, light, inobtrusive and great value for the price. It focuses very fast, is sharp and WR. DOF at f2 (e.g. for portraits) is shallow enough for me. Maybe you have more extreme needs than I do so you have to decide based on that. I would refuse to make a general statement as to which of the 50 f1.0 / f1.2 / f2 is "better". For me the f2 is better. Go to a shop and try them out if you can. Good luck ! Let us know how you fared. Cheers
  16. Andy, The XT-4 has IBIS and fast focusing (if you are into sports photography). The XT-3 has no IBIS (you probably do not need that for landscapes anyway) and is getting a firmware update soon to improve focusing speed to somewhere near XT-4 (which is irrelevant for landscapes). The X-H1 has IBIS but is slower re. focusing speed and the X-T2 is without IBIS and with focusing speed similar to X-H1. All of them will give you the same (i.e. great) image quality. Also the X-E3, X-T30 etc. The newer ones have a few more Film Simulations but for landscapes you would likely use RAWS anyway. I would get the XT-3 (in my case keep the X-T2) and use the saving for a prime lens and C1 Pro. Of course, that is just me, there will be many other opinions for sure. Cheers.
  17. Hi Adele, The 18-55 is by no means a basic zoom. It is a very good lens, not like the “kit” lens we know from the DSLR times. I get very sharp pictures with mine. I think the first and foremost question is: what Shutter Speed do you have on the pictures that seem blurry ? Have a look and tell us pls. Also, is there perhaps a smear, a stain, like from a fingerprint, on the lens (look at both ends) or maybe even something on the sensor ? Do not tamper with the sensor, do not try to clean it if you don’t know how, don’t even touch it, you could easily damage it. Have your camera and lens checked in a specialist shop if possible. If you want to post some pics, you could put them e.g. on Flickr and post the link to them here. I am sure we can solve this and you will be very happy with your camera once we do, like the rest of us are. Cheers.
  18. Nicolas, I have the Nitecore FX1 dual charger and I use it with a 2 Amps USB charger (Apple or other). It measures the temperature of the accus while charging and it works well for me. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=nitecore+charger+fujifilm&_sop=15
  19. Grandfather used to say, one is never wise enough, so we are all novices at different levels, aren’t we. A few things that maybe could help: NR at -4 is the lowest NR, I think. Why -4 ? Also, I think it only affects JPEGS, not RAWs. Do you shoot Fine+RAW ? Do you use some Post Processing software, which one ? Or are we talking about JPEGs ? You can make different versions in-camera and try out different settings after the shot. Did you not switch on Grain by any chance ? Don’t combine Grain with Acros, it has its own way of doing things. What is your setting for Sharpening ? How low is the light that you have in mind ? Are these long exposures ? Does Long Exposure NR become relevant or not ? Fuji is generally highly regarded for low-light capabilities and the look of low-light images. The grain is considered “organic” and “film-like” by many. Maybe you are doing something wrong. Anyway, I have the 35/f2 and it is a great little lens, esp. for the price. The 35/f1.4 is even better for low light (if the lower DOF is not an issue at 1.4), although slightly more expensive, bigger and focusing slower (which is probably irrelevant). Depends what you want to use them for. Let us know how you got on. Cheers.
  20. ... and layers. I agree with mawz. And the paid version is also worth it for the layers feature and the intelligent masking modes (luminance etc.) They have very good tutorials, have a look.
  21. OK mdm, I give up. I’ll dig out my father’s old Leica. I’ll have to get the shutter moving though, it is stuck by the dried up lubrication grease. 😀 Cheers my friend.
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