George_P

Thanks, my friend, you are kind as always, even though you didn't see my Edinburgh collection yet. I am afraid my post is not helpful to those who have the issues and I do not want to argue with them, I am just genuinely baffled why they have so many problems. Maybe my style of work is slower, taking more careful and deliberate shots. I do not need eye tracking and subject tracking that much, I don't do action often. I am used to focusing old-timer style. All my Fuji gear has worked perfectly ever since my X-T10, except once I had my (then new) 90mm f2 replaced by a better copy, which Fuji did in a very prompt and helpful manner. Before Fuji I had Canon full frame. I was so thrilled by the image quality of the X-T10, that I switched completely to Fuji and I am very happy still. Thank you, Fuji, for many happy moments.

I don’t want to sound as if I were a Fujifilm advert, but seriously, I am always baffled by these kinds of posts. I have just come from a lunch with an experienced photog who shoots the Nikon D850. He wanted to see two big printed photobooks that I made, one of Edinburgh and another one of the Alps & Dolomites, 160 pages each, bigger than an A4 paper. He went through them very slowly and he repeatedly praised the pictures for sharpness, handheld low light shots, high dynamic range shots, colour etc. He said they were very very good, worthy of commercial printing. He was genuinely surprised what the Fuji cameras can do. My X-T5 & X-T2, no issues whatsoever. I love these cameras. I could buy anything else, I have the money, but I honestly see no reason. Maybe if I were a sports photographer shooting indoor basketball I would need something else, but for anything other than that, no. Size, handling, quality, colour, dynamic range of the sensor, wonderful lens - I love my Fujis. Focusing on the X-T5 is of course faster than on the X-T2 but I am keeping that one too. Focusing was never an issue for me. Sorry, I have a different experience. Might you have a faulty camera ? I don’t know.

X-T5 is a very good camera, I don’t have any issues with it and it takes great images. I would not change it for anything else that is available now, for me it works just fine. Fuji lenses are fantastic lenses. What FW version are you on ?

Jerry, you need one too ? A youngster like you ? What is happening with this world. @Greybeard, @jerryy Thanks, guys. Cheers !

X-T10 X-T2 X-T5 So now we know where the problem is. In the date of production. Namely, my own !!! I need a tripod for my brain. That is where the bug is. I doubt any firmware update is available for that. Anyways, it used to be half-press IS on in both AF-S and AF-C on the X-T10. I wonder why they changed it, I quite liked that.

I stand corrected. But, if I remember correctly and I don't need to get corrected again, before it was so that when you half-pressed, the image stabilised. With a long lens It was easier to precisely frame the shot while you were half-pressing before you took the shot. Now in AF-S, IS set to "Shooting Only", half-pressing does not stabilise, but @Greybeard, sir you are right, the actual image is stabilised as the shot is taken. In AF-C, the behavior is as I remember it, with IS set to "Shooting Only" half-pressing stabilises the image. You can clearly see this in the viewfinder. With miniscule movements of the camera, the image moves with the camera while half-pressing, but the camera moves versus the image while not. I don't know if this was changed with the most recent FW or earlier. Heck, I am not even sure if I remember this from Fujifilm X-T10, X-T2 or from my previous brand. I haven't been using long lenses for quite some time. Am I right ? Or was this only in AF-C from the start ? Thank you.

Artur, if the camera does not retain the settings, the internal backup battery (built-in) could be bad and you would have to have the camera serviced.

Please correct me if I am missing something, but as far as I can tell the image stabilisation (IBIS and OIS) has been affected by the recent FW update to V4.00 on X-T5 (and so it seems, to V4.40 on X-T2). I expect the same problem on X-H cameras after the recent update, maybe someone would like to test. Previously, you could choose to have IS on full time (“Continuous”) or only when you press the shutter button to focus (“Shooting Only”). Now this works only in AF-C. In AF-S when you switch to Shooting Only, IS does not work. Continuous works. In AF-M I have to try yet. I tried with the XF90, XF18 F1.4, XC50-230, XF18-55. Seems to me like a bug in the new FW that could be corrected in future updates. Has anyone else encountered this or has anyone perhaps found some relationship to other settings that could influence this behaviour ?

No worries John, a pleasure. From the on-camera flashes, the ones with Li-Ion accus are the V860II, V860III, V1, V1Pro. Make sure you get the “F” versions for Fujifilm. The 350, 685 are powered by AA batteries, avoid these. But recently, rechargeable Li-Ion accus in the size and shape of AA batterries are a thing so that might change the previous statement if someone needs a smaller or cheaper flash than the ones in the first paragraph. Also, if you buy the remote control, X-ProII or X3, you need the “F” versions. You can add studio flashes to this system, also portable Li-Ion ones like the AD-200, they will work with the remote no matter which version (Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm) you have, so if you also use another camera you just buy the corresponding remote and the flashes will work.

John, The response above is an automated response by this site and it is just an advertisement, presumably to help cover the running costs. Regarding your question, I am not a pro so take this with a grain of salt, but I have been using Godox flashes for a few years without any issues. The Li-Ion powered ones are strong and a charge lasts long. I have the X-ProF radio remote, the V860IIF (hot-shoe) and the AD200. There are newer ones in the meantime. They are very good value for money, I think. Cheers, George

92•F is 33•C and that is pretty damn hot where I come from. If the camera was on the whole time, maybe it could have reached the warning limit without actually having a fault. I don’t know. You did not say which country you are in, I presume USA. The number would be 1-800-800-3854. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/repair-and-product-support/

Congratulations on your new camera ! I wish you that you may enjoy it for a long time.

Yes, I hope @cyns will let us know how he fared.

Sorry, wrong thread, disregard.

I agree with @BobJ re. the 50f2. I have put lots of pics in the Winter Landscapes thread, all taken with that lens, have a look. This site accepts only resized pics, if you want I can send you some raws or fullsize jpegs to judge. Small, light, WR, a great lens. If I could have only one lens, that would be it.

This is really bad luck, sorry to read this. In my country the warranty period is two years. Talk to Fuji, have it repaired. I hope you can resolve this for a reasonable price.

Jarek, your English is way better than my Polish so no worries. That camera definitely needs to see Bratislava and I am good for a lunch or dinner while you’re here. Cheers and welcome to the forum.

I also think the issue is different. I have the X-T5 at V3.01 and the 50-230 at V1.10. I have not used that lens in a long time so I tried it (in CAF) but it worked normally. It focused on the eye that either I chose or the eye the camera chose automatically (when I activated that function). I had my son wave his hand in front of him but still my camera had no problem to focus on the eye just like the green quadrangle was indicating. This was just a brief test now in the evening (inside, so btw definitely no ideal lighting conditions) but I could not even reproduce the V3.01 bug that has been complained about. @cyns had said that he used a tripod, so for entirety I would like to mention, what we all know, that it is recommended to switch OIS and/or IBIS off while on a tripod (this lens has OIS too besides the IBIS of the X-T5) but I doubt that has anything to do with the problem when I look at that image and he surely took also shots hanheld. So baffling, yes it is. Could it be a faulty IBIS ? Maybe try to shut it off and see what happens ? I don’t think so.

And yes, what @bergat said, if you have the touch screen focus active and you touch it with your nose for instance, you change the focus point to elsewhere.

While @Greybeard is busy doing something else, I looked at the photos but I don’t know what is going on. You have shutter speed set to 1/30 s so there could be camera shake induced by pressing the shutter as opposed to using the remote shutter (if the camera is on a stative or resting on a table you could use the 2s Self-Timer to avoid that)… but that shot doesn’t look as a shaky picture to me, it looks really like an out of focus picture. Just to make sure, excuse me if this is an unappropriate question, do you first half-press the shutter to let the camera acquire focus (the focus point turns green) and then continue pressing to take the shot ? Also, did you set Focus Priority or Release Priority mode ? Sorry if I asked stupid questions but some people are new to photography and almost no-one reads the manuals.

And share some photos !

No worries, a pleasure. Welcome to the forum. These are fantastic cameras and I am sure you will enjoy your learning journey. Next time it is good to post which camera and lens you are talking about, eventually which firmware versions you have. If you need further help do not hesitate to ask.

Hannah, you have Shutter Speed set to 30 seconds, so what you see is the countdown tímer for that tíme during exposure (after you pressed the shutter button). Also, you have the Aperture set to f22 (closed down to the smallest opening) so there is not enough light coming into the lens and you see a dark screen instead of the scene you are trying to photograph. Go somewhere where there is enough light, like daylight, set your Shutter Speed to 125 (that means 1/125 of a second) and your Aperture to 5.6 (usually by the aperture ring on the lens) and ISO to 200 and try to take a shot and see what happens. Then sit down and Read the Fuji Manual for your camera. Let us know how you fared and feel free to ask any further questions.

No worries, a pleasure. The histogram changes depending on the Film Simulation you choose. I think the Natural Live View is meant to give a neutral view when shooting with the intent to use RAW (to get the most data into the file for subsequent processing, where you choose the Film Simulation and other parameters after the shot had been taken). To answer your other question, I didn’t try White Priority or Ambience Priority in landscapes, could be interesting.

Yes, but when I switch the camera off and then back on again, the last setting is preserved (Dual Display or not, also MF Focus Assist mode e.g. Focus Peak Highlight). I think what Bernard means is that after he switches his camera off and back on again, having set MF Focus Assist to Focus Peak Highlight, his camera reverts MF Focus Assist to Digital Split Image. If that is what Bernard meant, I can’t figure out how that could happen. Even if he meant Dual Display, that also stays in the last state after switching my camera on again.