mokba

I’ve had some pretty similar results. I’m leaving use of the 2x for use on the tripod. I’ve had fairly decent luck with the 1.4x handheld but only using an ibis equipped body. 

I've been shooting the moon with both the 70-300 and a Tamron 500 mirror lens with 2x teleconverter and had no problems whatever. It's a compact zoom, not a long telephoto.

Hey guys,
 
So I finally had the time to continue my space adventure. I got really better in mastering both the software and the hardware! And yet, so much to learn...
 
Here is the picture from my 1st post, reworked with better settings. The X-Trans sensor is kind of new for stacking softwares, and without the proper settings, it introduces some kind of ugly canvas in the picture. I was able to correct it though, by tweaking some options in Deep Sky Stacker.
 

 
Looks cleaner, but still a bit blurry/foggy!
 
 
 
A few days later, I had another attempt. The conditions were much better:
- no Moon (it was just after the eclipse!)
- Andromeda was higher in the sky: the higher, the better, because light has to travel through less atmosphere. And the atmosphere is full of light pollution, particules, clouds, humidity...
- The polar alignment was much more precise than the first time, so managed to do longer poses (1 min vs 30 seconds)
 
Here is one RAW image, SOOC:
 

 
 
After stacking in DSS and correcting in Lightroom, I managed to get this:
 

 
 
I didn't like the colors, so I converted everything to B&W. Then, I made a color version, just for fun! I got inspired by some Apple wallpaper that I used on my computer, a few years ago.
 

 
 
Things I need to improve:
- Reduce the noise
- Shoot from a less light-polluted area (but I only have a bike, so I'm limited!)
- Improve the tracking to make longer exposures (aiming at 2 min)
- Improve the post-production
 
Cheers!
 
Konzy
 

After a few weeks of contemplation, I have decided to replace my X-T20 with the new X-E3 as my travel system camera. While I miss the tilting screen of the T20, I prefer the speed and convenience of the E3's focus stick. All things considered, I'm faster with it, and I'm used to working with it from my X-Pro2, X-T2, X100F and GFX 50S. Unlike the tilt screen, the stick it something I use with pretty much every shot, so I benefit from it all the time. 
 
I also like the superior firmware of the E3, because it includes all those improvements from the two recent X-T2 firmware updates, such as an AF ALL mode, a super-small AF frame, putting ISO on a command dial, up to 15 minutes of T exposure time, separate Shutter-AE/AF settings for AF-S and AF-C, etc. etc.
 
Finally, there are the color histogram with live overexposure warning blinkies that I use all the time in my GFX, and the much faster/better AF tracking algo (which will only come to the T2 in November and who knows when to the T20). Price is identical with the X-T20, so the E3 it is. 

Oh Lord!...

The new firmware update added this as a feature.  Just scroll your way through view modes and you can get back to the setting you are used to.  This confounded me for a week.

You hit the nail on the head for me. If Pentax/Ricoh made a camera that accepted Fuji lenses (or better yet, Pentax made rebranded versions with the Fuji optics, but Pentax build quality and weather sealing), I think it would be a no brainer to buy that instead of a Fuji body.
 
Poor ergonomics, flaky firmware, questionable build quality, premium price. But it's worth it for access to the Fujinon lenses (at this point).
 
However, Fuji needs to watch out because Sigma has also figured out how to make sharp (and faster!) lenses for APS-C. Samyang is making some killer stuff now too, and it's only a matter of time before that includes autofocus.

They could sell all three as a special edition set with matching serial numbers.  Pack them in a custom leather covered, silk lined Pelican case.  Let's see Leica beat that!

1978 Big Format Lenses Fujinon W

 

More hints?