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Still finding my way round on here so forgive me as I put this on winter landscapes. Reason for posting this is that I have always tried to take the best photo I can without post processing . Many years ago I saw a photo and thought I would like to take that same image. As the scene was not to far I travelled, camera in hand but couldn't recognize the area. Yes there was the odd tree and rock I remembered but nothing else. Reason was although the photo was stunning it was heavily processed and had no relation to the "real" scene. Camera manufacturers spend millions on camera design so why do we not use their knowledge and experience and take the photos the best we can and learn by our mistakes. Don't get me wrong there is a place for processing but I think it can give people especially newcomers a goal that cannot be reached by just pointing the camera. To me a good photo is one that replicates the actual scene without working on a computer. The photo I have uploaded was just that. I was lucky because it does not happen every time but I keep trying.

Have Fuji forgotten the XT30? The XT3 got an update that allowed it to be used as a web cam, its just had another update to upgrade its focus performance to XT4 levels. I'm beginning to wish I'd stayed with Nikon or gone for a Sony. Having said that, Fuji's own XS-10 looks great. Why would anyone buy an XT30 now? it seems suddenly very old and unattractive.

The 27 makes sense if you want to carry the camera in a pocket of your jacket or so. The body itself is too big for any other pockets anyway. If you carry the camera on a strap or in a small bag there's little point for a pancake lens anyway (over the 23 you already have). Note that the 27 doesn't have an aperture ring. If that's important to you (as it was for me), discard that lens. Also noteworthy: there are persistent 'rumors' about a MkII version of the 27. You may want to wait for that because it could boost IQ or it will lower second hand prices for the MkI version. Personally, I prefer the 35/f2. Though its not as small as the 27, the difference is not huge and the IQ of that 35 is stellar considering the price. It also combines nicely with the 23/f2.

Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature. The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice. The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post. As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders. By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.

I had both, but kept the 27mm only as my compact setup lens. On the other hand, 23mm is my preferred focal length, so I got the 23mm/1.4 for all the occasions when size is not crucial.

Smoke Signals Fujifilm X-T3 Fujinon X23 1:2 R WR Fujifilm ACROS B&W Film Simulation

X-E2 + 27f2

X-T2 & Velvet 56

Fuji xt2 and XF 18-55

X-T2 + 80mm macro lens

X-T2 + 80mm macro lens

X-E2 + 27f2.8

X-E2 + 27f2.8

X-Pro3 & 16 2.8

20140831-Singapur_RAF_ - 560 by Martin, auf Flickr

Puerto Vallarta Sunset X100F

watercolors ...

_DSF4302 Nasty Toys by Miltos Kostoulas, on Flickr

with the Leica Elmarit 90/2.8 (M) from 1959 ... and Close-Up lens +5 ... Spitze ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

X-Pro1 w/Zeiss 32mm f1.8 shot with a polarizing filter on a light table and one one the lens.