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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/28/2020 in all areas

  1. According to Fujifilm, the XF 18-55 at 55 mm has a maximum magnification of 1:6.67, while the XF 90 has a maximum magnification of 1:5. This means, when both lenses are at their close focus distance, the XF 90 should see a slightly tighter crop. The image area in the plane of focus of the XF 18-55 at 55 mm should be around 16.7 cm x 11.1 cm, while the image area of the XF 90 should be ~ 12.5 cm x 8.4 cm. I've added those frame lines to your image: But please also consider that your depth of field gets smaller as your magnification increases. So even if you buy a lens with better magnification and brighter aperture, you might still end up closing the aperture down to get the whole head in focus. I've added some pictures I took with the XF 80 f/2.8 wide open at f/2.8: (the last bird might even be a pigeon, but you'll know better than me) You can see that at f/2.8, the feathers at the back of the heads as well as the beaks are already very unsharp and out of focus in the portrait images while the eye is sharp. Even with less magnification as seen in the last picture, you can run into those problems.
    2 points
  2. rokphish

    At a cafe...

    From the album: Rokphish Gallery

    Taken with X30

    © Rokphish

    1 point
  3. Jakani

    _My World !

    From the album: FUJI X PRO III

    1 point
  4. Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature. The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice. The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post. As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders. By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.
    1 point
  5. quincy is showing you why the studio folks earlier were suggesting to improve the lighting so that you can use more dof (higher f stop) to get more of the bird in focus without the image turning dark or needing to push the ISO. If you do go the lighting route, you have more options in lens choices -- though that 90mm is pretty good, a lot of portrait photographers like it. But one thought about that, try to get constantly on lighting instead of flashes. If you start strobing the units to get several good shots, the birds may panic, that sudden burst of intense light is startling.
    1 point
  6. Though I don't use Affinity Photo and I therefore can't check it, it is most likely caused by the Dynamic Range setting. By setting DR to 400% you're essentially underexposing by 2 stops. I know that Capture One reads the RAF-file and adjusts accordingly. It's very likely that Affinity doesn't do that. Whether it's for all Fujifilm cameras or only for this one (GFX50R?), I can't tell. RAF-files from the GFX cameras are different from the X-Trans cameras. Even between the different models there are variations, hence that software specifies not the sensor type/generation but specifically the camera model.
    1 point
  7. Howdy ya'll, new member here. As we all know, the beloved x100 has turned a decade old. I purchased the x100 back in 2012 while I was living in East Asia. Many years were spend living on the road, backpacking with this incredible, simple, yet quirky setup. It is so easy to catch a bad case of GAS with all these new releases, and I have also expanded to other X cameras, but as I was looking back on my images of the x100, I was thinking how much we can create with 'obsolete' cameras. We can upgrade to more megapixels and that's great, but ultimately its stories and experiences that matters. I wrote more rambles of my beloved little Fuji-san along with more pictures: https://medium.com/@christofferjames/the-life-of-a-fujifilm-x100-original-d440794b657d Here's to another decade!
    1 point
  8. If I am understanding right, you are trying to open the file to move it? All you have to do is copy it by dragging it to your sd card, no need to open it, the camera will do that.
    1 point
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