Leaderboard

X-E2 + 27f2

X-E2 + 35f2

X-E2 + Minolta Rokkor 45f2

Visited an old mine yesterday evening, July 31 2020, named "Hawk-mountain-cave", that is from beginning of 1700s so it is about 300 years old. They mined iron horizontally in to the mountain top. The horizontal mine was active until middle of 1800s. Just trying to learn how to use my new Fujifilm X-T4 camera. /Bo

The smaller left cave.

The larger right cave, there is also a smaller left cave. There is a place to have barbecue in the large cave

Just happened to see late in evening yesterday, July 31 2020, that it was "interesting" sky and absolutely calm on the surface of this lake, and I had the camera with me, so... I'm just learning to use my Fujifilm X-T4... Not easy task to take photos that is reasonably sharp in the evening but this one is OK for me... /Bo

Merry go round flower EX2 with helios 44-2

I guess your goal is to have the face stand out and the background 'disappear' in the shadows. Spot metering can be tricky since it very much depends on where you aim. There are great differences in luminosity in the face. If you need perfect exposure there are two options: (1) meter on a grey card near the face and fix that reading in manual mode or (2) use a separate light meter for ambient light reading near the face. Both options are a bit cumbersome though. The multi-metering mode of Fuji is quite good and will take the focus point into account. So when you focus on the face and expose, it will know that is the main subject. However, to get the darker shadows, you may want to correct 2/3rds or 1 stop with the exposure compensation. In general make sure you don't overexpose on the left side of the face or on the shoulder, since in post processing it's easier to correct a slightly darker image than an overexposed one.

The main benefit of the 24Mp sensor in the X-E3 vs. the 16Mp sensor in the X-E2s is that the 24Mp gives you more room for cropping your image. The visible difference in (un-cropped) image quality you'll only start to notice in larger prints (larger than about 30x45cm). A main advantage of the X-E3 over the X-E2s is the much faster and decisive AF, although that also depends on the lenses you use. For me the joystick is a real benefit. The cleaner back without the D-Pad gives me a natural resting place for my thumb without the risk of unintentional operating D-Pad buttons. You have to take into account that you have a few less buttons to configure freely though...

not sure if you're still looking - but i was shopping for a new x-e3 and the 23mm f 2.0 prime and considered taking new jersey transit into manhatten to visit the big two stores and make the purchase. then found both camera and lens as a package for $749 at bestbuy, which is $200 less!! i just checked as i am posting this, that deal is still available. and no!, i don't work for bb or have any interest other than sharing info about what i thought was a huge discount!

Hi Jim, I myself had the X-E2 and then, X-E2S. II have a X-E3 for about 6 months now. It is a wonderful deal. What can I say : The joystick is not perfect when you dive too much in in the menus. Sometimes I hit and miss. I use the Jpg to Raw in camera conversion menu, I cannot go as fast as with the d-pad. Nevertheless, the joystick works very well for choosing focus. I have no big issues with swipes, it works well for me. May i add that the X-E3 is a totally different camera that its predecessors. Its more advanced in features and sensor. While the image quality, on the specs sheet, is better, the rendering of the image is different, i still find the X-E2s image quality wonderful. The two negatives for the X-E2s, the skin smoothing on images at higher ISO and its video quality made want to upgrade, not the image quality or the resolution. The video quality on the X-E3 is okay but not as nice as the X-T2 slightly cropped version. I much prefer the X-E1, X-E2, X-E2s's design to the X-E3. I hope this help you ...

Sure, why not? [Fuji X20 in year 2020]