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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/2020 in all areas

  1. X-T2, 90mm
    1 point
  2. Thanks for the replies! yes, i was using the clarity setting (at +1) and setting it to 0 did fix the storing screen. What still bugs me tho, is that when using other shooting modes even with clarity there is no delay. But that means its definetly a Firmware issue that is hopefully resolved soon. im using a 128 GB Lexar 1667x sd card. its plenty fast and i have not encountered storage issues anywhere else so far.
    1 point
  3. andrei89

    Pixel Shift

    pixel shift would be nice to be able to get higher resolution files but from what i've read the x-trans pixel pattern makes it harder to achieve this compared to the bayer arrangement... the GFX100 i think does have pixel shift but i'm not sure whether it's bayer or x-trans
    1 point
  4. Hello and welcome. After having tried several, I ended up using RawTherapee (I'm on Linux).
    1 point
  5. You have to change it for every lens you mount on the camera. That is why I wish Fuji would allow that setting to be added to the Q Menu !!!!! The value you enter does nothing to correct the image due to any possible lens distortion. It is only adding that focal length to the EXIF data. Have fun shooting with vintage adapted lenses.
    1 point
  6. Given that Irident is free to try, why don't you see for yourself? The "painterly" effect comes up mostly with foliage and very fine detail. Personally I am reasonably happy with Lightroom most of the time for relatively small prints (at least up to A3+). But for A1 and maybe even A2 Irident (especially disabling noise reduction and distortion correction) and the free/donation-ware RawTherapee* both extract IMHO a huge amount of fine detail more than Lightroom, even using in LR the Bridgwood sharpening method(s): SHARPENING X-TRANS FILES IN ADOBE LIGHTROOM *In RawTherapee for the best results you'll have to use "Deconvolution Sharpening" and "Microcontrast" sharpening at the same time
    1 point
  7. MikeG

    X-T10 won't turn on

    For fear of stating the obvious, is it *definitely* not turning on? I had a similar situation where I thought it wasn't turning on, but I had just inadvertently pressed the 'view mode' button (to the right of the EVF) with the effect of switching off the LCD; since then I keep it mainly in 'EVF only + eye sensor' mode. Again apologies if this is an exercise in teaching granny how to suck eggs, but sometimes the obvious can be overlooked.
    1 point
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