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"August 2016: My first postcards from India" All pictures taken with a Fuji X-T1 and the best two lenses I've ever tried from Fujifilm so far: XF16mm f1.4 and XF35mm f1.4 If you like my work, I will happily want to add you on my instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Come check out my site here: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

The use of DR-Auto, DR200, and DR400 can raise the minimum ISO allowed. The 16-megapixel models can only do ISO 100 in JPEG mode, not in Raw or Raw+JPEG. Lens clutch set to manual-focus mode (for the lens models with a clutch). Manual-focus lens fitted.

Probably this - or maybe touch focus You might try turning off touch focus and face detection - then set focus to single point and touch the joystick once to centre the focus point.

After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear. The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort. Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2. Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.

I love the 23mm focal length, but I'd say it's a toss up depending on what your personal preferences are. 35mm could be an excellent option as well. Either of those two will probably be an ideal prime to complement the zoom. I probably do 90% of my photography with either the 23 or 35 and the remainder is a mix of the 16mm and 55-200mm. The 23mm and 35mm may seem fairly close in focal length, but there is a huge difference between them when you're actually out shooting. I'd get as close to each of those as possible on your zoom and try shooting at only one focal length for a bit. Try at 23 first, then 35. You very well may end up owning both of those primes eventually, but that will help you decide which to buy first. The other question is how comfortable are you getting close to people in your street photography? If you're very comfortable with that, then the 23 makes a lot of sense. If you're not that comfortable with getting close to people, the 35 might help then you can get the 23 as you get more comfortable.

I'm going to be the contrarian here I suppose. The 18-55 is my "don't leave home without it lens" period. I also own a bunch of primes (as you may note in my signature) including the 23 1.4 which is amazing! As a matter of fact I'm headed out for a four day long, out of state job this weekend and I'm packing the 16 1.4, the 35 1.4, and the 60mm 2.4. And, just in case, the 18-55 will be in my bag. I truly will try not to pull the 18-55 out of the bag as I'm trying to use my primes more. We shall see.