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A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads. Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time. We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum. As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F. AFL Button not working If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again. Shutter not working with adapted lens Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens. Flash not working Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). Can’t select ISO100 Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100. Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter. Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light. Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter. Autofocus not working anymore If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure. Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu. To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear. If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu. Deactivating the annoying Q-Button On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button). Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING. The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder). So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time). The camera appears to be dead If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card. Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉 Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping. Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING. If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.

these last winter days X-E2 + 35f2

Fuji Finepix 2980

Open Topic. Let us combat the global warming. This one seems fit for a PF2019 greeting. PF2019 everyone !

I like shadows.

Just a moment and eye to eye second

Fujifilm X100F In camera B&W ACROS Film Simulation

XT1 & 35/1.4

X Pro2 + 23mm f2. Great BW possible with this combination

... DSCF5606 by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr X-H1 + Minolta 35-70/3.5 MD

X100s

Fujifilm X100F ISO 12,800 (Yes. That's correct!), 1/50 sec, f/4.0, Handheld, Available Light from LHS Window

Berlin street

The distant high peak is Monte Antelao (3264m), further to the right (invisible) is Marmolada (3343m). I rather like this one. Looks like a nicely peaceful scene, but if you want to see what the conditions were really like, have a look at this (with sound on !). It was freezing cold, I could hardly operate my poor camera.

Since there is no topic for landscapes in b&w, I thought let's create one... Cloudy day by #1923#, auf Flickr

He’s wrong about all of it and I seriously doubt he used the camera. I had the X-T3, sold it for the X-T4, and 2 years later I preordered the X-H2s. I have had it since launch and here’s a quick rebuttals to that garbage review. First, the people he spoke about, saying they backed up his claims… Casey from Camera Conspiracies, only tried the pre-release and has since taken one on loan… He loves the thing now. Gerald from Gerald Undone, said the camera’s DR is excellent, Still image capture AF is awesome, and he said thanks to the noise properties he can actually make the video better quality than the A1 (that’s impressive). DPReview, said they wouldn’t rank the camera or comment on most aspects until they got a full retail version of it and that review is happening now. Second, he ignored the stacked sensor and the improved AF speed completely. Then he made assumptions based on his ignorance of the camera and how it functions. He claimed they didn’t think the design through, but his own complaints show he didn’t think it through. I had the X-T4 sitting right beside the new body for about a week… The build quality was very much on par with the X-T4 and yet he praised one while panning the other. So which is it, is the build quality of the X-T4 cheap, or is the X-H2S actually decent build quality. Then of course he tried to equate knowing the X-T4 with knowing this camera and I can tell you they could not be further apart in the way they operate and still be a Fuji body. Many of us have action photos, portraits, BIF, and animal portraits, yet he seems to proclaim it is the worst camera ever. Of course he focused on 1 thing obsessively, that’s the fact that the dials don’t have any push button capabilities. Then he also made a comment that gave away his motivation for the whole review away… Fuji wouldn’t give him a body to review, so he rented or purchased one and panned the whole camera. Oh and as for Muddy images… I set both the X-H2S and the X-T4 to the same settings and swapped the lenses from body to body. The image quality was pretty much identical, so you can ignore that garbage claim too.

X-E2 + 27f2

Medinilla magnifica flower bud. XT-1, XF80 mm, 1/3 s, F/8, ISO 200

Taken with Fuji xt2 and XC 50-230!

X-Pro3 & 16 2.8

aus vier mach viele by Rolf Marx, auf Flickr

Share few picture of my Vietnam Trip. Buy experience not new gear ✌️ (if is not broken) Hey Girls Want A Ride? Sweep With Me Hanoi Old Folk "A" People Fearlessly Sapa Cyclops Kid Portrait of my Vietnam Trip 2019

XT1 & 23/2

Light & Shadow by Yoan Mitov, on Flickr

Standby by sgt.floydpepper.hh, auf Flickr

I understand the site has a need to bring in revenue but the "Advertisement" and "Ad" replies to every forum post are useless and annoying - seeing a possible response to your post and instead being sent to Amazon is just irritating - perhaps the site could switch back to normal ads.

Post black & white photos, Anything the world !!

I don't understand the big deal about this - ISO can be assigned to the dpad - press up and ISO goes up - press down and ISO goes down - it shows in the EVF but it doesn't fill the EVF and disappears as soon as the change has been made.

Sierra de Callosa, Alicante, Spain - XE-3, 18-135, originally shot on Vivia

Brown Pelican XT3 with 100-400

Somewhere in Flanders All shot with the X-pro2 and a 7Artisans 12mm

x-pro3 with XF35mmF1.4 R at f/5.6

X-T2 & 80mm macro lens

First post, lets see if I can do this...

20191002-Südafrika_XT2-1398 by Martin, auf Flickr

X-H1 + XF55-200 ... sky on fire by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

X-H1 + XF55-200 ... Linde by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

Another landscape photo in b/w dreary day by #1923#, auf Flickr

According to Wikipedia, this is: Hemaris diffinis, the snowberry clearwing, is a moth of the order Lepidoptera, family Sphingidae. This moth is sometimes called "hummingbird moth" or "flying lobster". This is the first time I have seen one of these out in the wild so to speak, at first I thought it was a large bumblebee.

Loneliness

XT1 & 35/1.4 Adventurous window