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Hi everyone I find why it did that, it was because I shot with the flash at the second curtain.

Daffodils (Appalachian) Eastern Red Bud

Does it use wi-fi when you are not specifically attempting to transfer files?

Hello dear Fujifolks - I come from 54 years of shooting Nikon cameras, and this is my first Fujifilm experience as I've just sold my Nikon D7200 in exchange for a tiny but endearing X-T20. Very pleased with it as it's so lightweight, but very well built. But takes some getting used to the menus and settings after Nikon's DSLR functional simplicity ! I'm working on it though and slowly coming to terms with the new system. My question for now is this: is there any way to turn OFF the wifi antenna in the camera ? I'm particularly wifi signal sensitive and have no intention of using that function as I do all my editing and printing on my PC. I've checked the wifi menu options but cannot find a simple wifi ON-OFF selector. Thanks for your help and I'll be back with more Q's when needed. Blessings to you all...

Has anyone successfully used pocket wizards with an XT5? I cannot get it to fire. Do Fujis and pocket wizards get along? Thanks in advance for your wisdom on this, kind readers!

Grzegorz, Go to the Networking Setting in your camera menu (the last one at the bottom - unless you have a My Menu then that is the last one). There, go to Network Setting and choose the SSID (name) of your WiFi network, type in the password, choose "SET". If you have a functioning DHCP server on your network, the camera should get its IP address (and Subnet_Mask and Gateway). If not, you can enter these manually. It is a little tricky, there will be some zeros already here, move the cursor after the zero and use DEL to delete it and make space in the input fields for your own correct values. If you do not know what to enter, have a look at values in the network settings of your computer and use the same except for the IP address, try some fairly higher number, hopefully you hit an unused one. Usually the values would be something like IP: 192.168.1.188, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Gateway IP: 192.168.1.1 or something like that, take clues from your computer. The camera and computer must be on the same network. Then in Connection Mode on the camera, choose Wireless Tethering Fixed. And half-press the shutter to exit the menu and get in shooting mode. The red LED should be blinking. If you can look at your network devices, e.g. on your router, you should see the camera there. You can see check the camera settings in the camera menu in the INFORMATION item of the Network Setting menu to see the MAC address of your camera and look for it in the list of devices on your network. Then use the tethering in your software, e.g. in Capture One. The camera may not show immediately, take a shot and then it should show in the list of available cameras. Good luck. Report back how did you fare. PS If you have a Windows machine, you need to have Bonjour installed and running. Macs have it.

Hey all, I just got my first camera. The X-T30 II. It seems the Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display view-mode is doing the exact same thing as just the Eye Sensor view-mode setting. Any ideas why this is or what's supposed to be happening? Firmware Version: 2.04

What GordW said. You have to put the drive mode dial to "S" - Single Frame. If you have it on CL, CH, BKT or Panorama (or HDR), the Multiple Exposure option will be greyed out in the shootng menu. On my X-T5 it works in RAW + JPG and also in JPG only. When Multiple Exposure is switched on, the image quality cannot be set to RAW only. If it was set to RAW only before switching Multiple Exposure On, image quality defaults to RAW+Fine. The result is JPG. After each shot press MENU/OK and after the last one press DISP/BACK.

Springtime is coming to the Norwegian fjords. X-E4 with XC 15-45

X-E2 and FX18-55mm

I also experienced this today with the GFX50r and the 32-64 . It always happens around f11-f16 at the 64mm end if I pull back slightly say to 60mm it doesn’t happen. Very annoying. I updated the camera and lens firmware it still occurs. Is Fuji aware of this problem.

The April 2024 firmware updates for the X-H2, X-H2S and X`100VI bring a couple of stellar updates for video: - STEPLESS auto ISO. Just set your shutter and aperture manually (i.e. fixed) and ISO to Auto. Now as lighting changes in the frame, you will get a smooth, stepless ISO change and perfect exposure - Start video recording and voila! you will see a red border on the LCD, just like on the X-T5 How bloody good are these?

The nearest you could do is use INTERVAL shooting with any exposure value and minimal interval gap, then string them together in your video editor. Not what I would do but...

How can you have an exposure last longer than a video frame is shown? It would mean that frame 1 is still exposing while frame 2 has started. DUH!

https://www.pergear.com/collections/new-arrival/products/7artisans-50mm-f1-4-tilt-shift?variant=41007803269218 Maybe too good to be true but at £187 worth a punt.

Good to know - I was basing my suggestion on the X100VI where raw only isn't an option with multi-exposure

I updated my firmware to FWUP0024. I have lost Shutter Release Focus' - and it seems to have programmed back button focus'. Storage of an image is basically bricking the camera - I have checked all clarity etc settings and all are default 0. I have removed the battery and have to Off/On the camera to get it to respond again Don't do this update

@Greybeard You can shoot the images in RAW only. The original images are saved as RAW, and the resulting multiple exposure is a .JPG, even if you have the camera set for RAW only. @joan11 . Not sure why you can't get multiple exposures. Might be a combination of various settings, or even a bug. I suggest you back up your settings, (using XApp on your mobile device, or XAquire on your computer) and then reset the camera. If that works, you can try restoring the settings you backed up. If that doesn't work, you'll need to tweak each setting one at a time and test after each tweak. Good Luck!

It would be nice if this had an easy to point to cause and say ‘do this instead’ as an answer, but this quickly gets complicated the more you look into it. Fujifilm does recommend the 2000x series instead of the 1667x series you are using even over the next in line 1800x series. This link may give you some idea of what to expect (use the 128GB and 256Gb tabs to thin the results table a bit). Your card is not explicitly tested, but the much faster 2000x series is as well as other Lexar cards that are similar to yours. The “all” tab includes results for the 1800x series. https://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/fuji-x-t3/fastest-sd-cards/ It does get more complicated after that. If you are modifying any of the settings that require the image to be highly processed before saving, this will affect saving speeds, for example changing the Clarity setting can dramatically slow things down regardless of which card you are using, Another factor is whether or not you are using cards in both slots, in which backup mode, etc. as well as are the cards the same size, rated at the same speed, how old are they, how full are they, how fragmented are they, etc. ??? p.s. Welcome to the forum.

I also would like to know how to record in MP4 Im using firmware 5.10 Thanks !

My Fuji x10 says card protected and I can’t take pictures or do anything even thought the card switch is in the right position help please

I have a Fujifilm X-T3 and I am experiencing very long storage times to the SD-cards. I have a LEXAR SDXC PROFESSIONAL 1667X UHS-II U3 V60 128 GB and 256 GB. Looking forward to hearing from you, Best Regards, Klaus

I don't have an X-T5 to check - but maybe you are in RAW only?

Hello GordW and thank you for your message. In "S" I still have the problem, indeed multi exposure is '"off" and greyed out. I cannot change it. Is there something else to set to be able to turn multi exposure on ? IMG_5938.HEIC