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Because the sensor assembly is moved electrmagnetically. When there is no power it is essentially free moving.

Ahoy ye hearties! Hoist ye yon Jolly Roger and Cascade away. NGC 1502 The Jolly Roger Cluster: This is the equivalent of 43 minutes, 40 seconds of exposure. NGC 1502 is a neat little cluster located in the Camelopardalis Constellation. This region of space was thought to be fairly empty by early astronomers, but as you can see, there is a lot there. Kemble's Cascade (a.k.a. Kemble 1) is named for Father Lucian Kemble, a Canadian Franciscan friar who wrote about it to Walter Scott Houston, an author for the Sky And Telescope magazine. Houston named the asterism for Fr. Kemble and the name "stuck". NGC 1501 is the Oyster Nebula. A longer focal length telescope is needed to bring this one into good viewing range, but it is well worth the effort. NGC 1502: https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ngc-1502/ Camelopardalis Constellation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelopardalis Kemble's Cascade (and NGC 1501: The Oyster Nebula): https://www.constellation-guide.com/kembles-cascade/ Arrrrrr Matey.

Looking for input; there are some decent deals and might want to take advantage to expand my lenses for my 100s already own: 110/2 32-64 35-70 100-200 + TC Shooting mostly family shots, bringing my kit to capture family outings indoors and out. Tracking the 63/43 effective FLs on the two, but has anybody used both? Would the 55 (covered by two zooms right now) be redundant? Would the 80 be too similar in character to my 110 for portraiture?

See what I mean? Two instantaneous ads. Worthless.

What's the deal Fuji X Forum? I'm noticing there are seldom replies to any topics - except for advertisements posted as replies. Really lame. Anyone else noticing the only reply they receive to a question is an advert? 🤠 fotomatt in Colorado

This forum sure is shit. I posted a question that I doubt will ever get answered and I've seen another one about tethering from 2020 that still remains unanswered - I guess they're not common enough questions; and now I've also found yours. Did you end up using Cascable at all? I was going to post a question about Cascable but I honestly don't think there's any point. Since your post in 2021 it looks like Cascable have improved and I desperately want it to work with my iPad but can't seem to get it to do so and their customer support is as useless as this forum.

love herons!

cool photo

playing around with ND filters, Indian River, DE

eagle was backlit with intense sunlight, waited a bit for him to take off

Welcome to the forum. Here is your image: If you copy the link and paste it in to your posting, you will be given the choice of having the link show up as the image (as above) or as just a link that can be clicked. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678730517_54489efae3_k.jpg Great photo! Blue Jays are tricky to get good photos like you have, they tend to fly away as soon as the lens cap comes off 😀.

I own the Fuji X-T1 and X-H1. I own several Fuji lenses but I tend to use 3rd party vintage manual glass which I find quite enjoyable to use. I'm testing a photo here taken from my Flickr account that showcases the Tokina 100-300mm Zoom lens with 1.4 extender. [url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678730517_54489efae3_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr]300mm 1.4 blue jay[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/92395202@N07/]frankweiser[/url], on Flickr

Forgot to mention another thing. Mine does not work if I plug the USB cord into a USB hub. It only works if I plug the cord into one of the USB ports on my computer itself (an iMac). This surprises me because I think there's a hub built into the computer itself, which is how the computer has multiple USB ports in the first place. I think it was somebody here that suggested I try that -- sorry I don't remember who!

On another forum someone suggested spraying some electrical contact cleaner into the wheel but the Fuji tech said that could risk frying the rest of the cameras electrical so I haven't tried that.

I have an x100VI with 1.01 firmware - did a reset already and didnt solve issue I am about to describe. Can you all see if your camera does this: Switch to C mode, step down to f16 and then press shutter half way. Does your screen go dark? I have tried playing will all settings (have had the following so quite familiar with the menus: x100, x100f, XT-2, X-Pro 2, XT-3) , only happens in C mode. If you find this can you report to Fuji @ digitalinfo@fujifilm.com. They told me they had not seen this before and that it was normal behavior because the shutter is closing, but the shutter closes in S mode as well.

That’s a common problem with many cameras, filters irritating the autofocus.

I can't vouch for the Sigma on the X-S20 but I do have a Viltrox (27mm f/1.2) and the startup speed is identical to when I have the Fuji 18-55 on it.

I have focus error issues when I placed a VU filter on the X100VI. Only on close up macro photography. The filter is placed backwards because of the threading. When I take the filter off the camera the focus works properly.

In Windows PCs the backup is saved in folder Documents>Fujifilm>Conditions. If you open this folder in a window before you start the backup you'll see the backup file appear in the window. It's almost instantaneous. It's a confidence booster. I don't remember X-Aquire giving any indication that backup has completed. The backup files include the date and the camera make so if you have two Fuji cameras they all go in the same folder. New backups do not over-write the older ones so you can restore an older one if you should so wish. Simon

Hi, thanks for getting back to me. It's a shame because my X-Pro1 works perfectly except for the aperture with the 27mm lens. I think it would be better to switch to the new WR version that allows aperture changes with the ring. Thanks for your help.

I have the same issue on my X-Pro 1 and can no longer use lenses with no aperture ring. I contacted Fuji Tech several years ago and was told the camera would have to be disassembled and the mother board replaced at a couple hundred dollars. I was also told Fuji would no longer be repairing X-P1 as they stopped making parts for them. I did not check to see if any third party repair shops could fix it. Everything else on the camera works fine.

Nobody knows it?

Thanks for answering my question! About this one item -- why is it better to do this with the camera on? Just curious.

I do read the fine manual. A text search on locking sensor turned nothing up.